do you guys install struts & springs urself?
- Thread starter ChongLee
- Start date
a simple search should answer your question. i know used a thread not too long ago when doing the job. did it by myself.
It's not that hard, and you'll find yourself on a pretty steep learning curve. The first time took me two days. The second time took me 45 minutes, for all four corners.
Check out post #6 in this thread.
Check out post #6 in this thread.
yeah, it's pretty straight forward. just take your time.
- Joined
- 29 June 2007
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yeah, its not so much in need of a write-up, but more on how working with double wishbone suspensions is like, or differs.
saw a post on how not to take out our balljoints... kinda scared me already.
i have only done single wishbone suspensions... so just wondering.
thanx tho.
saw a post on how not to take out our balljoints... kinda scared me already.
i have only done single wishbone suspensions... so just wondering.
thanx tho.
Use a long section of 2x4 from what I hear from many folks lately. I still think it's a pain in the @ss.
Unless you are disassembling the struts, there is no need to "fear" the springs. They come out in one unit.
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- 29 June 2007
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i will most likely go either:
konis with eibach,
bilstein with eibach,
or the SOS coilover package.
i guess i have yet to take a look at it, then know what to expect.
from my past works on other cars, i had to take it all apart regardless...
henceforth compressing the springs.
konis with eibach,
bilstein with eibach,
or the SOS coilover package.
i guess i have yet to take a look at it, then know what to expect.
from my past works on other cars, i had to take it all apart regardless...
henceforth compressing the springs.
I did mine *years* ago - back then there were two main schools of thought - either remove the lower a-arm connection to the chassis - or don't. I didn't.
I am pretty experienced for a non-professional and it took me all day with the help of my wife. It sucked getting them in/out. I remember being quite sore the next day from the hard floor.
If you are going with lowering springs, then replacement will be much easier. I only replaced my shocks and kept the stock springs.
YMMV
I am pretty experienced for a non-professional and it took me all day with the help of my wife. It sucked getting them in/out. I remember being quite sore the next day from the hard floor.
If you are going with lowering springs, then replacement will be much easier. I only replaced my shocks and kept the stock springs.
YMMV
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- 29 June 2007
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Did it just a few days ago. I have Bilsteins on OEM springs. The pro is that you can keep the springs compressed when they are moved to the new shocks. Bilsteins gives you appx. 0.9" drop. A lot more work to change springs on OEM shocks, and as mentioned earlier also will ruin your shocks eventually.
I'll try to explain in my somewhat limited technical English:
The NSX manual is a great help, and so is the FAQ. It is important to compress the springs so much that you can move them freely around the shock before disconnecting the shocks.
Start in the front with the bottom bolt, but be careful with the ABS cabel. Once the bolt and brakeline is disconnected, undo the three bolts on the top and you can use a long rod between a secure point on the car and over caliper to pry the lower arm downwards. We used a big screwdriver and pryed the shock upwards using first the hole from the bottom bolt and then on the top of the lower bolt mounting. Once you are over the top, you can drop the bottom of the shock down on the door side of the mounting and take the whole set-up out with the top first from the arch. Keep the spring clamps on.
If using Bilsteins on the lower perch, they will be the same 0.9" shorter and are quite easy to replace.
In the rear there is some more room to work the shock when removing it from the car.
The easiest way to get the spring clamps on, is using a pair and put them on the spring as far from each other as possible + as wide opening as possible. Place a jack just behind the brake disk and jack upwards as high as possible, tightening the spring compressors by hand simultainiously. This will save you a lot of work compressing the springs and is really a time-saver in the process.
We spent 4.5 hrs on the first shock and only 45 min on the last. Put the jack back before removing the clamps and slowly lower the arm while loosing up the clamps.
Finally, disconnecting the lower sway bars (?) is a good tip. Be careful int he back, and disconnect between the bar and the link before you attempt to remove the bottom bolt/link.
Or leave the whole job to the nearest work-shop, but make sure you have a firm price before they start working on the car. :biggrin:
I'll try to explain in my somewhat limited technical English:
The NSX manual is a great help, and so is the FAQ. It is important to compress the springs so much that you can move them freely around the shock before disconnecting the shocks.
Start in the front with the bottom bolt, but be careful with the ABS cabel. Once the bolt and brakeline is disconnected, undo the three bolts on the top and you can use a long rod between a secure point on the car and over caliper to pry the lower arm downwards. We used a big screwdriver and pryed the shock upwards using first the hole from the bottom bolt and then on the top of the lower bolt mounting. Once you are over the top, you can drop the bottom of the shock down on the door side of the mounting and take the whole set-up out with the top first from the arch. Keep the spring clamps on.
If using Bilsteins on the lower perch, they will be the same 0.9" shorter and are quite easy to replace.
In the rear there is some more room to work the shock when removing it from the car.
The easiest way to get the spring clamps on, is using a pair and put them on the spring as far from each other as possible + as wide opening as possible. Place a jack just behind the brake disk and jack upwards as high as possible, tightening the spring compressors by hand simultainiously. This will save you a lot of work compressing the springs and is really a time-saver in the process.
We spent 4.5 hrs on the first shock and only 45 min on the last. Put the jack back before removing the clamps and slowly lower the arm while loosing up the clamps.
Finally, disconnecting the lower sway bars (?) is a good tip. Be careful int he back, and disconnect between the bar and the link before you attempt to remove the bottom bolt/link.
Or leave the whole job to the nearest work-shop, but make sure you have a firm price before they start working on the car. :biggrin:
Last edited:
installed mine my self pretty easy actually.
get the car on 4 jack stands.
u actually dont need any 2x4 or clamps that was mentiond above for the rear install
just think outside the box. the upper control arm in the rear has 4 bolts just remove them. swing the arm around and the rear strut would come right out.
also in the front is even easier..
make sure remove the castle nut and the shocks would come right out.
note: b 4 u start this project make sure u buy some castle nut pins to replace the ones your going to remove just incase u break them.
easy..
get the car on 4 jack stands.
u actually dont need any 2x4 or clamps that was mentiond above for the rear install
just think outside the box. the upper control arm in the rear has 4 bolts just remove them. swing the arm around and the rear strut would come right out.
also in the front is even easier..
make sure remove the castle nut and the shocks would come right out.
note: b 4 u start this project make sure u buy some castle nut pins to replace the ones your going to remove just incase u break them.
easy..
I agree on the 2x4, even if you use the "prying technique". Any rod of 3 feet or more will do.
But you will need to clamp the springs if you are removing them, either for replacement with lowering springs or if you change the shock. And be sure that the clamps have a firm grip!
But you will need to clamp the springs if you are removing them, either for replacement with lowering springs or if you change the shock. And be sure that the clamps have a firm grip!
