DIY NSX Brake bleed using Motive power bleeder

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Hello, I wanted to share how I did my brake bleeding using Motive power bleeder, be warned it is messy when done wrong and make sure you protect your paint against brake fluid (that eat car paint)....

I will show you step-by-step and how to use Power Bleeder, there is gotcha with NSX because the Master Cylinder reservoir is very big...

First step: We need a NSX, here is my 2002 on jack stand ready for bleeding, this is my second NSX bleeding I did my first try with my 94 Brookland, with a lot of spill. :eek:
DSC03618.JPG


Connect bottle to Rear Right bleed screw

DSC03619.JPG


Remove Master Cylinder filter... HEY Whats is this green stuff??? Anybody?
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Look my old fluid
DSC03625.JPG


Now empty reservoir with sringe or turkey bastard
DSC03626.JPG


Now fill it with new brake fluid
DSC03627.JPG


I used this brake fluid
DSC03633.JPG


NOW this is THE big trick to not do mess, place Power bleeder gasket on reservoir this side
DSC03637.JPG


NOT THIS SIDE... MESS AND SPILL GUARANTEED!!
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Now place power bleeder on top of master cylinder
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another view
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Because master cylinder reservoir is so big do not put to much pressure or it will leak. Here is a good pressure that bleed each caliper in less than 10 mins
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Resulting fluid extracted from all 4 wheels
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Hey look at my ABS reservoir, much much bad fluid inside... let's remove it using a sringe
DSC03634.JPG


Here is what is look when empty and clean
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I just added brake fluid remaining... see how it is clean now
DSC03636.JPG



That's it, I also did manual transaxel fluid, brake is challenging because it's very hard to not spill brake fluid... be warned.:wink:
 
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Re: DIY NSX Brake bleed using Motul power bleeder

Small reservoir is the clutch. ABS is ahead of both of them about a foot lower toward the ground. Almost at the same elevation as the battery.

I have a Motive pressure power bleeder. I have a universal cap that is a PIA.
Do you know the part number for your cap? I would like to order one.

Thanks in advance.

Later,
Don
 
Re: DIY NSX Brake bleed using Motul power bleeder

Small reservoir is the clutch. ABS is ahead of both of them about a foot lower toward the ground. Almost at the same elevation as the battery.

I have a Motive pressure power bleeder. I have a universal cap that is a PIA.
Do you know the part number for your cap? I would like to order one.

Thanks in advance.

Later,
Don

A vender on honda-tech in the brakes section is selling these kits with the caps for honda. I think it was about 60 bucks shipped?
 
Re: DIY NSX Brake bleed using Motul power bleeder

Small reservoir is the clutch. ABS is ahead of both of them about a foot lower toward the ground. Almost at the same elevation as the battery.

I have a Motive pressure power bleeder. I have a universal cap that is a PIA.
Do you know the part number for your cap? I would like to order one.

Thanks in advance.

Later,
Don

Thanks for the correction, clutch fluid was in very bad shape.

I don't know the part number for my cap, I did receive it with my Power bleeder 5 years ago...
 
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Re: DIY NSX Brake bleed using Motul power bleeder

Thanks for the correction, clutch fluid was in very bad shape.I don't know the part number for my cap, I did receive it with my Power bleeder 5 years ago...

Unfortunately it still is!! You will need to bleed the clutch just like a brake caliper. The bleeder is on the clutch slave, on the trans(a little smaller then the brake bleeder;). Although cleaning the reservoir is OK, you must bleed the full system.

Regards,
LarryB
 
Re: DIY NSX Brake bleed using Motul power bleeder

Answer to all bleed problems = Speedbleeders. One man, no air in lines, no fuss, no muss :smile:.

The green stuff in your picture is dirty contaminates (moisture, particulates, etc.). My guess is that it has been a while since your last bleed.
 
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Re: DIY NSX Brake bleed using Motul power bleeder

Wish I could buy the Honda cap only - already have the Power Bleeder.
 
Bump for anyone that used this and made it work please advise because I can't get it to seal Properly. I follow the instruction in the picture but it still spill out the Reservoir
 
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Same for me. I never could get the Motive to seal on the master reservoir. I recently got a new master cylinder that I have yet to install and I was thinking of drilling a hole and putting in a hose barb in the old cap for the motive bleeder.
 
Same here. After MANY tries at getting the Motive cap to seal (extremely frustrating), I finally gave up and used a vacuum pump at the calipers. That Motive "Honda" cap is awful, absolutely will not seal and the chains/j-bolts are a joke. And I don't think you can modify an OEM cap because of the way it vents.
 
Same here. After MANY tries at getting the Motive cap to seal (extremely frustrating), I finally gave up and used a vacuum pump at the calipers. That Motive "Honda" cap is awful, absolutely will not seal and the chains/j-bolts are a joke. And I don't think you can modify an OEM cap because of the way it vents.


which vacuum pump are you using? mityvac? or vucula?
 
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I have the Mityvac MV8000 kit.
 
Personally, I prefer a vacuum bleeder, just install on the bleeder valve, open and watch:)........Close bleeder valve when new fluid comes through, move on, no mess.....


HTH,
LarryB

I think the Vacula brake bleeder is kind of appropriate for October 31.

http://www.restockit.com/vacula-brake-bleeder-kit-with-mark-iii-refiller-system-num-vac18-9961.html

I ended up getting brake and clutch reservoir caps from an early Integra (same as the NSX) at my local pick and pull. $10 for the two caps and about $10 for the fittings to modify the caps to hook up to my existing pressure bleeder fluid supply reservoir. Clutch cap worked the treat right from the get go. The sealing O ring on the brake reservoir cap kept distorting under pressure and leaking so I replaced it with some larger diameter O ring cord (about 3.2 mm dia) making for a very tight fit. Works pretty well. Because the brake reservoir is so large in diameter you need to keep the supply pressure pretty low otherwise you can distort the reservoir. I used about 15 psi.

For those of you who have tried the Motive cap (or a similar one like me), there is a reason that it works poorly with the NSX reservoir. With the cap off, if you run your finger along the top edge of the reservoir opening you will feel two little bumps right where the retaining tabs are for the lid. The net result is that the top of the reservoir is not absolutely flat and unless you really crank down or modify the Motive style caps they will always leak air right at these little bumps. The modified NSX reservoir cap works well because it seals with an O ring on the inside wall, not along the bottom edge of the cap.
 
Personally, I prefer a vacuum bleeder, just install on the bleeder valve, open and watch:)........Close bleeder valve when new fluid comes through, move on, no mess.....

My vacuum bleeder came with an additional reservoir fluid holder that mounts to the master, so it does not run out, works great!

https://www.google.com/search?q=vac...KHZzSCzEQ9QEwAXoECAYQBA#imgrc=q0MQPMvdDGR9xM:

HTH,
LarryB

+1 I also use a vacuum bleeder that I run off of my compressor. Works great on all my cars. One trick I use is to wipe some silicone grease around the bleeder base. Otherwise, I've noticed the tool will pull air through the bleeder threads and trick you into thinking there is still air in the lines.
 
One trick I use is to wipe some silicone grease around the bleeder base. Otherwise, I've noticed the tool will pull air through the bleeder threads and trick you into thinking there is still air in the lines.


Good Trick;)...
 
That speedbleeder seems like a pretty quick and easy solution.

I had speedbleeders on my last NSX and could never get them to work right. They were either too loose, too tight and the ball valve never seemed to close fully. I gave up and installed OEM Honda bleed screws and bought a vacuum bleeder. Never looked back since.
 
I had 3 pressure bleeders at my shop ,got rid of all them ,they were an accident waiting to happen. I use a mighty vac for clutch and brake system , the trick is no to draw too much of a vacuum or you will see air from the bleeder . Before I bleed I remove all bleeders and wrap a little teflon tape on them , reinstall and pull just enough vacuum to see fluid move ,never failed me yet. At our plant all cars were bleed thru a computerized vacuum procedure , 60 cars an hour ,16 hours a day , no problems .
 
I hooked up my vac bleeder (for lack of working reservoir cap for my pressure bleeder), opened the rear left. Can't get anything out. May need to try to seal the threads with teflon tape as ralph cerbone above suggests.
Also: planning to put my race ATE fluid in (I put that all my faster/track cars, buying in bulk). Any reason not to?

2 man bleeding: any special procedure to observe, or just the usual: open, pump, close, retract?
 
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