DIY: Header, test pipe, exhaust!

Joined
14 April 2008
Messages
292
Location
Vancouver, BC
This is a very noob'ish question. I have plans to do the headers, test pipes, and exhaust. My one question for now is do I need to buy new gaskets and replace them for all the existing ones thats originally there? I have a completely stock exhaust system now and I just want to have all the parts ready before I start taking anything apart =D

btw, the manual for header on wiki makes it sounds so difficult. . . hopefully I wouldn't ruin anything, fingers cross!!
 
This is a very noob'ish question. I have plans to do the headers, test pipes, and exhaust. My one question for now is do I need to buy new gaskets and replace them for all the existing ones thats originally there? I have a completely stock exhaust system now and I just want to have all the parts ready before I start taking anything apart =D

btw, the manual for header on wiki makes it sounds so difficult. . . hopefully I wouldn't ruin anything, fingers cross!!

good luck on the headers. I did it with floor jacks... lets just say it was my first and definitely will be my last time EVER doing it.
 
good luck on the headers. I did it with floor jacks... lets just say it was my first and definitely will be my last time EVER doing it.

ya, I am planning on jacking up all four corners + jack stands lol. The wiki manual still sounds so confusing, lets hope taking everything apart for the front header will not be as complicated as it seems :wink:
 
I did all my own stuff. Do it all the same time. If its not your dd, have tool and garage then you will be OK. Read wiki couple times and just start. Take your time and don't let it intimidate you.

Have latex gloves and safety goggles so grit won't get in your eyes. Stay organized with your parts n bolts.
 
Located Vancouver BC Canada =D thanks for the tips, but not one has really answered my question yet =/ whether i need to (or should) change all the gaskets while i am in there for the whole exhaust system!!! Thanks!
 
I took my car to a mechanic and it took him 2 days to the headers.. its definitely not for someone who expects and easy mod.

Typical install prices run around $500-$700 and it just very well may be worth it. Just be sure you really know what you're getting into before you get started..
 
Make sure to use penetrating oil (acura, wd-40, pb blaster,etc...) on all of the bolts and o2 sensors.

They get rusted and you do not want to break one off.
 
I took my car to a mechanic and it took him 2 days to the headers.. its definitely not for someone who expects and easy mod.

Typical install prices run around $500-$700 and it just very well may be worth it. Just be sure you really know what you're getting into before you get started..
I was able to do my headers in 4 hours.
 
If you consider a full day 8-10 hours then it shouldn't take you longer than that unless something sets you back. Like others mention just pb blast those exhaust bolts the night before along with the 02 sensors but don't coat the sensors with liquid or it may screw them up.
 
Hello from Vancouver Island

Having installed headers and exhaust on my BC based 91 this year and having a car hoist, unless you have a lot of DIY experience I would take your car to Burrard Acura and talk to Norman Li and get Andrew in his shop to do the install.

If your car is BC based you'll have had lots of water underneath that has helped corrode all the exhaust nuts and bolts. A lot of the install directions come from desert or summer only US cars and PB Blaster will loosen most nuts.I had to break several cat bolts and use a nut remover on virtually all nuts. 14 and 10 mm nut remover sockets are useful.

My O2 sensors would not come out and to remove the front header you might need to bend/break off the front O2 sensor.

I cut off and replaced the rubber exhaust hangers which saved much time and hassle.

In the case of removing the front crossmember I unbolted the front engine mount after removing the shifter cables which made it much easier. Then I removed the front crossmember. I removed the long bolt that joins the crossmember to the engine mount after I removed the crossmember. On the reinstall I put the front mount back on then installed this same long bolt after putting the crossmember back in place.

I replaced most exhaust and header nuts with new OEM, plus the exhaust hangers and ordered them from Rob Lacher at Lynnwood Acura ( [email protected] ). His prices are good, service is great and deals with shipments to Canada regularly. Suggest you replace the O2 sensors in the new headers. I got mine from SoS. Spend some time routing
and zip tying the O2 sensor wires to keep them away from heat sources

On your original question, while I replaced the exhaust gaskets it wasn't necessary as you can reuse everything you've now got.

On a humorous note, I took off the Cantrell (SoS) exhaust and reinstalled my OEM exhaust. My better half said she wouldn't ride in the car as it was too loud. I didn't dare install the Cantrell intake scoop as it adds loudness too. I'll be putting those items onto Prime soon.

Feel free to PM me if you run into problems.

Jim
 
Forgot to mention it's a good idea to change your oil pan gasket when you do your headers.
Once the headers are on you can't change the gasket without removing the front header.

Jim
 
Thanks again for all the good info!!! I'll get the oil pan gasket too then!! good to clean out that pan anyways! I track sometimes, wonder if i should do the baffle too :biggrin:
 
Thanks again for all the good info!!! I'll get the oil pan gasket too then!! good to clean out that pan anyways! I track sometimes, wonder if i should do the baffle too :biggrin:

Make sure you don't over tighten the oil pan gasket. Even if you use a micro torque wrench to tighten it may not read accurate since it's I believe around 16lbs of torque if I remember. Make sure you tighten in sequence as well.

When you get the oil pan gasket it may be bent. Just keep it underneath a heavy book or two for a few days to straighten it out. Also honda bond is always debate.

Also when installing the new headers make sure you don't cross thread the studs to the block or you'll have a headache.
 
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