DIY: Crank Pulley (Harmonic Balancer)

Joined
2 July 2003
Messages
1,436
Location
Virginia Beach
Here I go again...

*edit.. i just remembered.. heh.. I removed my ac... this install would prove slightly more difficult with the ac belt too.. :)... my bad...*

Hope this helps some of you..

Start here:
This is the mounting bolt... (notice it's already backed out)
DSCN1149.jpg


Tensioner bolt (pic from above):
DSCN1150.jpg


After you loosen the bolt from above you have to loosen the nut... this is not fun... here is the best method I got on it to loosen it:
DSCN1151.jpg


After you loosen the nut the belt becomes loose:
DSCN1152.jpg


From the bottom (ignore the lightbulb.. inside joke):
DSCN1154.jpg


Here's something interesting... My crank pulley has a 50mm crank pulley hole while the new one I bought from Acura had a 45mm hole:
DSCN1155.jpg


Place your tool on your pulley:
DSCN1156.jpg


Then break with a big-arse breaker bar:
8071DSCN1157-med.JPG


Then you're done!! Mental notes...
It takes 186 ft/lbs to tighten it back up...

Other notes:
Here is a side by side comparison:
DSCN1158.jpg


DSCN1163.jpg



As for the condition of my old pulley there were some tears in the rubber... (sorry for bad pictures)
DSCN1159.jpg


DSCN1160.jpg


DSCN1162.jpg


I find it interesting b/c of where the tears occurred, the new pulley had a big ole gap... who knows..

Hope this helps out more people... As for a few other DIY's..

Headers

Clutch

Oil Pan Gasket

cheers,
x
 
Last edited:
nsxhk said:
I wonder if there's any decrease in weight?

Actually, the new one felt heavier. And this was pure qualitative. Not much but enough for me to feel the difference when held in the hand.

x
 
Very nice write-up! How much time is involved in this switchout? and how much was the harmonic balancer? Do you have a part number?
 
Nice DIY write-up. It's too bad fluidampr, etc don't make a lighter & improved aftermarket version of this.
 
Just got off the phone with Gunn Acura in San Antonio, who gives discounts for NSXCA members. Crank Pulley is $204 and the bolt is $14 . Unfortunately, it is backordered until next month.
 
In regard to the difference between the two pulleys, the very early cars had the original type you had on your car. I think before serial number 650 or so. After that the pulley you have installed new is the same as most:).

The last one I saw like this was S/N 391

What is your cars serial number?

There are many differences between the first 650 or so vs. the rest.

Makes me wonder if all the failures we have seen are from this very early style pulley.

These early pulleys have a different hex size too, which means you need two tools. I think they are 50mm vs. 45mm respectively.

BTW, the price is not the issue;), availability is. I ordered one before NSXPO and it is due to come in 12/15.

HTH,
Larry
 
Larry Bastanza said:
These early pulleys have a different hex size too, which means you need two tools. I think they are 50mm vs. 45mm respectively.

I thought the difference in hex size was a manual/automatic transmission thing? I thought my manual said something about that.
 
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