DIY Coilover install

Basically, unbolt everything and then force the control arms down by wedging a ~4ft 2x4 between the frame and the top of the hub and sit on it. This is necessary to push the control arms down enough to remove the long stock struts. In my case I had to use spring compressors on the fronts in addition to the 2x4 method. Coilovers are shorter so they go in without a hitch.

Tips:
-If you aren't heavy enough to get enough moment on the arm, wear a weighted vest or a backpack with dumbbells. 50lbs + my 170lbs did the trick when my body weight alone didn't.

-Push up on the brake disc with a jack to remove preload on the lower strut attachment bolt on removal and installation so that the bolt comes out more easily.
 
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Good info above... I did this install myself and didn't have any issues except it took longer then expected, just be patient and know when to walk away if you get frustrated! I got the fronts off with only spring compressors, 2x4 + spring compressors for the back. Installing the new coil-overs is a peice of cake once you have removed everything.

 
From your number of posts, it appears you're new around here so you may not have discovered the NSX Wiki which you can access from the red action bar at the top of most pages. In the Wiki, there is a section called "Modifying Your NSX" and in the Suspension section, there is a link to a Wiki Page for Installing Bilsteins. I suspect that you're not doing Bilsteins but the page has an extensive discussion of suggestions that people have had for removing the OEM shock/springs .. including a diagram similar to the one above.
Good luck
 
Good info above... I did this install myself and didn't have any issues except it took longer then expected, just be patient and know when to walk away if you get frustrated! I got the fronts off with only spring compressors, 2x4 + spring compressors for the back. Installing the new coil-overs is a peice of cake once you have removed everything.


professional paint skills sir ;)

I used a spring compressor to do most of the work and then used my foot to push the control arm down. Took a bit of effort but did the trick. The rears are easier to get out if I remember correctly.
 
Sawzall..... Saves a lot of time. If your shocks are 20 years old they are beat. Drill a small hole up high let the pressure out and then ....
I got flamed big time but there is zero chance you will damage the wheelspeed sensors or anything doing it this way. Wear eye protection.
 
You need quite a bit of of force to push down the hubs. The 2x4 gives you more leverage to push the hub down thus making it easier.

I removed the fronts without a spring compressor but I removed the abs bracket first. It gave me more space.
 
Why do you guys use a 2x4? You can't just have a secondary person step on the hub to get the oem ones out?

Not so easy to do on the front of the car, those hubs don't lock in place like the read does in gear.

Standing or bouncing on the hub isn't as safe nor effective as leverage.
 
Why do you guys use a 2x4? You can't just have a secondary person step on the hub to get the oem ones out?
With the 2x4, it allows a small guy (like myself) to do this job all by myself.
 
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