So my boot was torn and I figured i'd give it a rip and replace the boot. Here's a picture analysis of what I went through.
You'll have to excuse the fact that I'm showing you this with the joint already pulled apart. I like to focus on what I'm working on and didn't want to deal with the whole picture and the "wtf why won't you come apart" ordeal.. :tongue:
anywho... first things first... I'm a firm believer that if there is a tool for it then there's a reason it was made... so I went ahead and bought the honda tool:
Honda # 07MAC-SL00200
PDF on how to use it:
http://www.acuraworld.com/tsb/TSX/b90-027.pdf
Pictures:
profile
top
front angle
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So I tried reversing the castle nut while only leaving a mere 1 or 2 mm in space between the nut and the arm...
good in concept but when the pressure got to high, one of the end of the nut chipped off:
.... ok that failed.. i obviously need more 'ass' behind it... so i tried:
This nut is a nut off of an engine mount from one of my old drag cars back in the day... well this didn't work either because the gap in the nut itself is so big that the essential 'thread pressure' was too high.
if you look carefully at this pic you'll see a 'gap' or space of blank area that made a big no-no for thread tension.... As a matter of fact after this attempt I had to re-run the castle nut on it to make sure the threads were perfect..
.... ok that failed too.. so in attempt 3:
This attempt worked. The first nut was a standard run of the mil nut and the bottom one well... I know where it came from but i won't say.. :tongue: anyway, this method worked the best because i was able to:
1. still have my 1-2mm gap.
2. cover a bunch of threads and keep an even amount of pressure on all of them, not isolating any specific few.
Although the 'process' i used was to put the tool on as specified then when the tension got VERY tight (to the point of feeling uncomfortable), I used a trusty dead-blow to nail the heck out of the area around the joint... (do this to hopefully loosen the grip within the joint knowing that there is already upward tension on the bolt)...
Suddenly.. 'pop' and she came out.
Here is what the rubber looked like:
pretty tore up.
Anyway, the procedure in the manual for putting the rubber back on is quite self explanatory.
Hope this helps anyone considering this procedure.
Cheers,
x
You'll have to excuse the fact that I'm showing you this with the joint already pulled apart. I like to focus on what I'm working on and didn't want to deal with the whole picture and the "wtf why won't you come apart" ordeal.. :tongue:
anywho... first things first... I'm a firm believer that if there is a tool for it then there's a reason it was made... so I went ahead and bought the honda tool:
Honda # 07MAC-SL00200
PDF on how to use it:
http://www.acuraworld.com/tsb/TSX/b90-027.pdf
Pictures:
profile
top
front angle
****************
So I tried reversing the castle nut while only leaving a mere 1 or 2 mm in space between the nut and the arm...
good in concept but when the pressure got to high, one of the end of the nut chipped off:
.... ok that failed.. i obviously need more 'ass' behind it... so i tried:
This nut is a nut off of an engine mount from one of my old drag cars back in the day... well this didn't work either because the gap in the nut itself is so big that the essential 'thread pressure' was too high.
if you look carefully at this pic you'll see a 'gap' or space of blank area that made a big no-no for thread tension.... As a matter of fact after this attempt I had to re-run the castle nut on it to make sure the threads were perfect..
.... ok that failed too.. so in attempt 3:
This attempt worked. The first nut was a standard run of the mil nut and the bottom one well... I know where it came from but i won't say.. :tongue: anyway, this method worked the best because i was able to:
1. still have my 1-2mm gap.
2. cover a bunch of threads and keep an even amount of pressure on all of them, not isolating any specific few.
Although the 'process' i used was to put the tool on as specified then when the tension got VERY tight (to the point of feeling uncomfortable), I used a trusty dead-blow to nail the heck out of the area around the joint... (do this to hopefully loosen the grip within the joint knowing that there is already upward tension on the bolt)...
Suddenly.. 'pop' and she came out.
Here is what the rubber looked like:
pretty tore up.
Anyway, the procedure in the manual for putting the rubber back on is quite self explanatory.
Hope this helps anyone considering this procedure.
Cheers,
x
