Differential recommendation
- Thread starter TURBO2GO
- Start date
Well... Some guys on this forum. But what's the gain? I'm a little hazy about the OEM diff. These were upgraded in 1997, no? What will the OSG give the stock 05 one can't?
When you say your stock dif works great. Are you meaning that both rear wheels lock up and spin in a slide? Every time I break loose only one of my wheels spin.
Yes, absolutely both. In fact the car is soooooo easy to modulate. My suspension setup right now likes to understeer and a feather of the throttle brings the tail around just enough to neutralize it and basically get you into a 4 wheel drift. It's tricky but oh so rewarding when you get it right. I made tons of improvement in that one day BTW.
The couple of time my instructor drove he said "man the diff on this is fantastic"
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So I'm just wondering what is missing that improves with an OSG.
The couple of time my instructor drove he said "man the diff on this is fantastic"
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So I'm just wondering what is missing that improves with an OSG.
Hi there,
Nice to hear to like to drift your NSX.
I have a 1998 NSX with which I attended a drift training last year and I found the NSX to be a VERY difficult car to drift.
It was easy to let the tail step out but after that it was very hard to catch in time. And if I did catch it in time, on the return slide, the tires would regain grip and the car would surge forward.
I was running rather new semi-slick Federal tires (595-RS, 235/265) though. My car is very neutral in corders, but I'm not sure if that changes a lot.
I tried drifting with a prepped BMW 3-series and in comparison, that car was 1000% easier to drift.
- Joined
- 28 November 2009
- Messages
- 997
As far as I am aware you can not buy a quaife for the NSX i have contacted them in the past.
On that basis i went for a ATS Carbon Differential.
http://www.ppi-ats.com/
Very happy with it but as for a proper track review i'm not the person.
On that basis i went for a ATS Carbon Differential.
http://www.ppi-ats.com/
Very happy with it but as for a proper track review i'm not the person.
So no one has told me:
1) what the benefit of a new diff would be.
2) what is the difference between nsx Diffs
3) when did it happen.
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Yes, the NSX does not like to drift. The reason I did this class, which was less class and more like legal time in a parking lot with cones I could practice on, was to improve my skill and get comfortable with what happens when grip is gone on the track. I changed tires away from my AD08 to a set of NANKANG SII M&S. Much less grip and easier to learn.
I made more strides in that one day learning NSX control than I have in 15 track days including a skip barber course. You can learn all you want in other cars, it just doesn't apply to the NSX. you must lose control in the NSX over and over... At speed... To slowly learn where exactly that fine line is. The only way to stop rotation is to unwind. That's it. There is no other way. Being into the throttle or off it does not make any difference once the car has started to rotate. And then as you said, soon as you unwind it grips again, and starts to immediately push... So you have to get back into the throttle, sometimes heavy, and while its pushing the front wheels, you push the rear wheels... Now all 4 have no grip and you are in essence, drifting. The idea of grip in the front with controlled rotation in the back does not exist with the NSX.
1) what the benefit of a new diff would be.
2) what is the difference between nsx Diffs
3) when did it happen.
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Yes, the NSX does not like to drift. The reason I did this class, which was less class and more like legal time in a parking lot with cones I could practice on, was to improve my skill and get comfortable with what happens when grip is gone on the track. I changed tires away from my AD08 to a set of NANKANG SII M&S. Much less grip and easier to learn.
I made more strides in that one day learning NSX control than I have in 15 track days including a skip barber course. You can learn all you want in other cars, it just doesn't apply to the NSX. you must lose control in the NSX over and over... At speed... To slowly learn where exactly that fine line is. The only way to stop rotation is to unwind. That's it. There is no other way. Being into the throttle or off it does not make any difference once the car has started to rotate. And then as you said, soon as you unwind it grips again, and starts to immediately push... So you have to get back into the throttle, sometimes heavy, and while its pushing the front wheels, you push the rear wheels... Now all 4 have no grip and you are in essence, drifting. The idea of grip in the front with controlled rotation in the back does not exist with the NSX.
How about you not answer my questions with another question.... LOL.
Why do you care so much who? I am sure if they want me to name them they can chime in. It was more a recommendation and not a "you must". It wasn't any of the hardcore track guys.
I'm still looking for answers to my questions if anyone can answer.
Nice to see that you did the Drift Class for the same reason I did
: To learn how the NSX behaves at the limit, to recognize what's going on and how to counter it.The better you know the fine limit of the NSX, the more able you are in pushing the car towards those limits.
I have done ALL my track training with the NSX and so far, I'm loving it :biggrin:
The NSX has a tremendous amount of grip and when balanced right is very fast in corners. I am in no way a professional driver, but I would like to believe that I am probably at approximately the same level as other drivers doing the same training on a particular day. And so far, I have had no trouble keeping up with people driving the BMW M-series or the typical Porsche drivers.
What I DO know is that, at my level of driving, I simply could not tell the difference the pre '97 NSX differ, the later diff or any other diff that might be on the car.
ok...you don't need it.
So do you know the answer to any of the questions above or not. I believe the percent of lockup is different. But being unsure of what the OEM specs are throughout the years I can't compare.
stop asking me questions and read this old thread...or pm larry b http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...to-my-1994-NSX?highlight=differential+rebuild
+1 you don't need it.
x2. Save your time and money...
- Joined
- 19 January 2011
- Messages
- 714
What you can do (and what I did) if you like the stock diff is have the preload changed to the type R specs, Stock USDM load is about 54lbs, once the JDM plates are installed its about 154lbs. This means the diff will 'lock' the plates with much less pressure. Currently when I track the NSX out of some corners where I am on early power i have to 'spool up' the diff, you can actually hear it go from unloaded to locked with throttle input, the time it takes to do that is time you could be getting power down to the ground. I could find an example of the phenomena in some track video i have if your interested. I drifted a car with a viscus LSD for years and it feels A LOT like the USDM NSX diff on corner exit. With the type R conical bushing/washer thingy both wheels should be in sync earlier on and make controlling (and holding) over steer easier.
Here the part numbers--
You need one: 41581-PR8-J00 (stopper plate) (Japan part)
You need two: 41696-PR8-000 (spring plate) (all world part)
heres how easy it is to do:
<object height="315" width="420">
<embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/tn2oF8rT6io?version=3&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" height="315" width="420"></object>
I had the OSG diff on order and figured i try this out first, mind you I haven't driven the car yet but the 'math' is there.
Here the part numbers--
You need one: 41581-PR8-J00 (stopper plate) (Japan part)
You need two: 41696-PR8-000 (spring plate) (all world part)
heres how easy it is to do:
<object height="315" width="420">
<embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/tn2oF8rT6io?version=3&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" height="315" width="420"></object>
I had the OSG diff on order and figured i try this out first, mind you I haven't driven the car yet but the 'math' is there.
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As soon as I read "NSX" & "drift..." in the same sentence i'm surprised nothing broke and nothing got fixed
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Dave,
If your 6spd diff is similar to the 5spd diff then do as willem has said. Get new cone washers and tighten it down to Type R specs. If you want your car to break loose easier then tighten up your diff.
The OSG diff uses a bunch of clutch packs but it's also a helical gear type which is torque sensing (gets tighter as more driveshaft torque is applied). It's suppose to be the best of both worlds.. supposedly.
If your diff is set too tight you'll notice it will be extremely annoying in parking lots where it sounds like your car is broken as your diff or inside tire makes a lot of noise. I see this in the hellaflush car shows all the time on the "drift" setup S13s and S14s. This happens because the inside wheel can't move as freely as before. I'm not sure if the OSG has this problem since it incorporates a helical gear AND a clutch pack. This is where my understanding of it is thin... It's comical. It's no way for a street based NSX to behave imho.
Practically speaking though... you have to be Billy Johnson to really take advantage of the incremental difference between diffs. The NSX stock diff is already pretty good. 6spd people upgrade to the OSG mostly because of the 4.44 FD.
You also have heat issues too once you start messing with this stuff.
1. Virtually none at your skill level.
2. 91-94 5-speed transmissions and 02+ NSX-R 6-speed transmissions use a wet-clutch type diff, which locks and unlocks at a specified torque differential between the wheels (stock NSX= ~50 lb/ft; NSX-R = ~100 lb/ft). 95-96 5-speeds and all 6-speeds use a helical type diff, which locks and unlocks progressively based on load.
3. 1995. Any manual trans after this date uses the helical diff, except for the NSX-R, which uses the wet-clutch type.
- Joined
- 29 June 2011
- Messages
- 93
Hahahah just reading doc's comments made me crack up. He's right, you don't need it. You also don't need every gram of unnecessary weight out of your car, but you do it because you want your car to be the best it is capable of being (at least from what I can tell). I have an OSG diff and I absolutely love it. It makes the car much more aggressive on power (sometimes a little too aggressive), but I still am able to drive the car every day through the Chicago winters. I think the reason the diff was recommended to you was because that person knows that you want your car to be the best it can be. However, an aftermarket diff isn't for everyone. In fact, it sounds like the stock diff suits your driving style well. If that is the case, (as said before) don't fix something that's not broken.
Btw, I would recommend doing more Skip Barber stuff as I personally know most of their instructors and I can say that they are one of the best resources for any new or experienced drivers. Plus you get to beat on their cars instead of yours :smile:
Btw, I would recommend doing more Skip Barber stuff as I personally know most of their instructors and I can say that they are one of the best resources for any new or experienced drivers. Plus you get to beat on their cars instead of yours :smile:
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I have had an OS Giken (1.5 Way) on my car since December and where I notice the advantage most is in the wet. The car is much more predictable and drivable under power and I am able to roll the throttle on earlier exiting corners. Almost feels like launch control from a standing start. Translates to faster lap times and definitely inspires confidence.
I also have the OS Giken 1.5 way diff and it's both good news and bad news.
The good news is on the track when you are pulling out of slow to medium speed corners and you want to get the power to the ground ( 400 rwhp in my case).
The 993 GT3s now don't just disappear as they used to:smile:
On the negative side when you drive around town especially in a roundabout, you get the feeling that someone is crushing marbles in your rear diff
In the beginning it's really worrying but then you get used to it and you ignore the stares of the pedestrians
Back to the positives as the overall gear ratio is lowered which means that with the OEM ( non USA) gearbox the speeds through gears 1 to 5 are almost exactly the same as the Porsche GT3.
That's another big advantage on the track, I can assure you, as you never get caught shifting gears when the other guy is just pressing on!
Of course, on the highway....I could not pass this latest Maserati because the engine was at 8200 rpm at an indicated 290 kph
The good news is on the track when you are pulling out of slow to medium speed corners and you want to get the power to the ground ( 400 rwhp in my case).
The 993 GT3s now don't just disappear as they used to:smile:
On the negative side when you drive around town especially in a roundabout, you get the feeling that someone is crushing marbles in your rear diff
In the beginning it's really worrying but then you get used to it and you ignore the stares of the pedestrians
Back to the positives as the overall gear ratio is lowered which means that with the OEM ( non USA) gearbox the speeds through gears 1 to 5 are almost exactly the same as the Porsche GT3.
That's another big advantage on the track, I can assure you, as you never get caught shifting gears when the other guy is just pressing on!
Of course, on the highway....I could not pass this latest Maserati because the engine was at 8200 rpm at an indicated 290 kph
