CV joint housing play @ Carrier Bearing

[KooLaid]

The passenger inner cv joint housing has play where it meets the carrier bearing. When I pressed up or pull down on the cv joint housing, it clunks around in the carrier bearing. When I twist the shafts there isn't any twisting play. Are my suspicions correct that it's a bad half shaft bearing and seal?

If so, I really need these parts by thursday.....

Parts #10, 24, 26, 22, 23

 

[C-speed]

There usually a little bit of play side to side.. but it shouldn't be excessive. ie: it'll wiggle a little...

PS: You need a new inner CV boot

 

[KooLaid]

the picture is actually stolen lol. I just added detail to it.

I compared it to another nsx late last night. It's definitely NOT supposed to move at all. I just want to make sure I'm gonna order the right parts.

It's also not side to side play. It's lay directly under the car and push up like lifting weights on the cv joint housing and it moves around up and down.

Does someone know how it all slides together inside part #16? quicky sketch???? anyone does the cv joint ride inside the bearing #23 or just the seal #24? Or does the half shaft ride on bearing #23 alone, and the cv rides on the half shaft spline and seal #24?

I'd check on my own but I just don't have time and I need to order my parts to arrive by friday.........

 

[KooLaid]

Anyone have any detail pictures of the splined ends of these photos of the ends where they meet together? My cv joint clunks around/rattles/slop/play around inside carrier bearing/intermediate bearing (whatever you want to call it) where they meet together but the inner driveshaft/intermediate/half shaft (whatever you wanna call it) since nice and firmly inside the carrier bearing.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

It really sounds like you either need a new inner CV joint or a new intermediate shaft. I cannot say which since I cannot put them in my hand. If the intermediate shaft is solid on the bearing(carrier) I would suspect the CV inner spline is toast, or it could just be the circlip is bad. If you want to test it with a new circlip, LMK, I have tons of them, I will send you a few.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[KooLaid]

I'm guessing that's #26?

Do you happen to know the honda equivilent #?

So frustrating, I'm organizing the first get together and drive with owners from around my immediate area because these guys know each other, just never drove with each other. And my car is on jackstands! :frown:

 

[Larry Bastanza]

The circlip I am refering to is #10. #26 is a snap ring IIRC.

The #10 circlip makes the fit very tight between the intermidiate shaft and CV joint.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[KooLaid]

I ordered part #24, 26, and 10. They should be here tomorrow. I hope it fixes it. I'm not on my home computer so I can't look it up in the service manual this second, but what does the snap ring 26 hold in?

 

[OLDMNSX]

what does the snap ring 26 hold in?

#22 Holds the bearing in the housing and #26 holds the axel in the bearing

Next time you are in a used tool store, or new for that matter, look for a nice brass punch about 3/4 or 1" diameter and about 10 to 12" long. Or you can just cut one from round brass stock. They come in real handy when it comes to taking CV axels and suspensions apart. The brass is softer than the steel parts and so doesn't leave hammer marks. The end of my brass punch looks like crap, but my suspension and CV axel parts are unmarked.

I see that you still have the bearing carrier and bearing housing still assembled. If the two are stuck together try soaking the joint with "PB Blaster", put it into a vise, and gently twist the two, they should come apart. Then take some emery cloth or fine sandpaper and gently clean the two surfaces. Put a thin film of grease on the two surfaces when you reinstall.

It is a lot easier to install the bearing carrier first, part that bolts to the engine, then slide the bearing and axel assembly into the carrier. The holes in the bearing housing will only line up one way into the bearing carrier. Those little Japanese engineers did it again. How do you spell "Murphy Proofed" in Japanese?

Way to go digging into this project. Proud of ya.

Brad

 

[KooLaid]

well now the right/passenger inner CV joint won't go back into the carrier. It's about half way - 3/4 way in. This is getting tiresome. my arms are shaking STILL.

 

[KooLaid]

I remember Larry B replying to someone about the same problem before. Still digging for it....

 

[KooLaid]

Just took a "short" 3-4 hours to complete. Atleast I can do it quicker the next time around. It's 4am and I'm dead tired. I'll wait till past noon when I wake up from my coma I'm gonna have to see if I fixed the problem.........

 

[OLDMNSX]

well now the right/passenger inner CV joint won't go back into the carrier. It's about half way - 3/4 way in. This is getting tiresome. my arms are shaking STILL.

Disconnect the two, it's not going on, check to see that you have not pinched the round lock ring. If not, wipe the splines clean, make sure there are no burrs on any of the splines. Apply a thin coat of grease to the CV joint splines and lock ring. Try it again. Insert the CV joint onto the shaft, hold the axel straight and hit the end of the axel (wheel hub end) with a hammer. Not too hard, just a good thump. It should pop on.

Brad

 

[Larry Bastanza]

An alternative method would be to grab both ends of the lower control arm and give it a quick tug towards the center of the car.

When you grease up the circlip, make sure it is as centered on the intermediate shaft as possible. When the circlip is new, this can be tough.

HTH.
LarryB

 

[KooLaid]

I ended up doing the tug method you mentioned only it took several tugs. Everything felt considerably better, no more rattling but I haven't drive it yet. My arms were in HORRIBLE pain last night to where I couldn't sleep until about 7am or so.

Will update later on today.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[enkrypt3d]

It looks like my CV Boot is leaking a little bit - what would be the amount of labor involved in changing this one out? I don't have a whole lot of information as my car is still at the dealership - going to check out the issues and get more information. But what they told me is the CV boot is leaking grease (not oil)... So I'm not sure whats involved here in replacing this? And how much would it cost? Thanks!

:redface:

 

[Larry Bastanza]

I really need to know which side. If it is the right side you will have about $50 in parts, and about 2-2.5 hours labor. This would be to remove the shaft and replace both boots, add fresh grease, etc.

Dealer pricing would put this about $250-$300.

If it is the left side you will need to drain the trans, so add a "Trans Service" to the list. I really do not know how dealers price this. It is a drain/fill + 3 qts. MTF.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[KooLaid]

It looks like my CV Boot is leaking a little bit - what would be the amount of labor involved in changing this one out? I don't have a whole lot of information as my car is still at the dealership - going to check out the issues and get more information. But what they told me is the CV boot is leaking grease (not oil)... So I'm not sure whats involved here in replacing this? And how much would it cost? Thanks!

:redface:

If it's just a little, maybe try some of that black sealant available at kragen first. Might save you some time and money, worth the try. It worked great for me.....so far.

Did they say exactly which boot and where on the boot? Seems everyone gets a little sling sometimes, it even seems to make it's way at the every end of the boot where it wraps around the axle shaft.

 

[enkrypt3d]

I really need to know which side. If it is the right side you will have about $50 in parts, and about 2-2.5 hours labor. This would be to remove the shaft and replace both boots, add fresh grease, etc.

Dealer pricing would put this about $250-$300.

If it is the left side you will need to drain the trans, so add a "Trans Service" to the list. I really do not know how dealers price this. It is a drain/fill + 3 qts. MTF.

HTH,
LarryB

The dealer said its the passenger side - so this is a bit of a relief for me! I'm going to have it all done when I get the TB done... Thanks for the input guys! LarryB you never cease to amaze me

 

[Moses]

my passenger side inner cv joint boot was leaking also, so i cut the bands, moved boot to the side: filled it with grease, rebanded and called it a day