CV Boot Repairs (lessons learned)

Joined
19 February 2001
Messages
1,559
Location
Houston TX
I recently replaced all four CV boots for my NSX and wanted to give some lesson learned for anyone wanting to DIY. I want to thank Larry B for my numerous emails to get the job done. I would have posted pics as a DIY but my computer crashed with all my pics :(

Lessons learned:
- PPE: ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES I REPEAT ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES!!! I cut my hands severely during this repair. Almost seemed like invisible stalactites under there :mad: When you are replacing the boot, rubber gloves will be best because of all the grease.
- Boot Bands: I recommend trying to save the original boot bands because the new ones with the boot kits require a banding tool and IMHO, are a PITA to tighten up and don't allow you to re-use them in the event you needed to take them off to replace parts of the axle. If you decide to do this, you will need to use a sharp pointed device to open up the four tabs on the original boot band. This is a tedious process to do.

CV Banding Tool
B0002KO3PQ.01-ADG953YR6NRBF.MZZZZZZZ.jpg


- Coilovers: I removed my coilovers from the car as this allowed me to swing out the hub more and not worry about it being in the way of the outer joint as it elongates since it is not under a load anymore.
- Impact Gun: You will need an impact gun to loosen the axle nut as it is torqued at 242 lb/ft. I broke two breaking bars trying to do it by hand.
- Lock Ring Pliers: You will need some lock ring pliers to take off the two set rings in order to remove/install the spider pieces on the drive shaft.
L4490.jpg

- Replace both boots: If one boot is torn, I would recommend replacing both CV boots so you don't ever have to worry about the other CV boot going bad. You can get each CV boot kit for $21 from Dali Racing.
- Outer joint: I came across a unique situation where I couldn't get one of the outer axles out of the hub because it was frozen in the hub. I had to remove both boot bands on this axle, slide the boot back and remove the clip from the outer axle. This allowed me to be able to still replace the boot on the axle. Putting the spider, rollers, spring and circlip back in the axle is very hard since you are doing it sideways. Aligning those rollers up in there was difficult to :( I would put the grease in after you get it in the axle so you don't have to worry about it dripping everywhere.
- Inner joint: On the psgr side, I had to buy two hammers like the pic below. I couldn't find screw drivers that Larry recommended me so I had to improvise. I placed the pointy side of each hammer of both sides of the inner axle and hit the face of the hammer with a small mallet. I would work both sides until I could get enough to hit the inner axle at the 6 o'clock position, with the pointy side of one of the hammers, to force the set ring past it's groove.

Hammer
pix_hammer.jpg


Long story short, but on the driver's side, I had to remove the inner joint twice. The first time it came out easy using a screwdriver pry bar like the pic below. The second time it didn't. I had to use a pickle fork like the pic below and place it just like on pg 16-5 of the service manual but I used a hammer to hit the handle of it one way which in turn force the inner axle's set ring past it's groove.

Screwdriver Pry Bar
00943279000-190.jpg


Pickle Fork
Pickle_fork.jpg


This may not be the best way to do things, but this is what I experienced. Hope it helps all the DIY NSXers in future repairs :biggrin:
 
Thanks for sharing your experience 1TITENSX. I too want to attempt this repair and have a few questions before I begin.

1. Did you have to use the special ball joint remover tool? Can the ball joints be removed safely by other means?
2. Does the procedure of removing the driveshaft change the alignment?

Daria
 
Daria said:
Thanks for sharing your experience 1TITENSX. I too want to attempt this repair and have a few questions before I begin.

1. Did you have to use the special ball joint remover tool? Can the ball joints be removed safely by other means?
2. Does the procedure of removing the driveshaft change the alignment?

Daria

1. I didn't use a ball joint remover tool. According to this thread, there is a TSB out that says not to do this. In order to remove the axle, note the comments from Larry B in post #2 of that thread.
2. As long as you mark the camber setting before removing the axle, it will not change the alignment because you'll be able to set it back.
 
hey ty..i could just call you but i'll just type it here.... did you rent a torque wrench to re-torque the hubnut? I have 3 different torque wrenches, S, M, L and the large doesn't go that high.

Where did you rent it from if you did rent one?

x
 
VBNSX said:
hey ty..i could just call you but i'll just type it here.... did you rent a torque wrench to re-torque the hubnut? I have 3 different torque wrenches, S, M, L and the large doesn't go that high.

Where did you rent it from if you did rent one?

x

I rented an impact gun from Autozone on Holland :cool:
 
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