Crazy electrical problems!!

Joined
26 April 2001
Messages
4,060
Location
Columbus, Ohio
For a while now I have been having the following problems. Everything starts out normal enough, but after driving for an hour or so, my speedometer starts freaking out and bouncing all over the place. Eventually (within 20 minutes) the needle drops dead and the odometer no longer keeps track of miles. Also, my headlights might get stuck up, dash lights may go out, etc. I'm scared I may need a new wiring harness all together. Has anyone else experienced this problem. My fear is my aftermarket alarm might be factoring into this.
 
When systems on different circuits start acting up, the problem is most likely related to a bad ground. I had some very strange electrical gremilins and it ended up being a bad connection with the main ground which is located on the front passenger side front wheel well.

Look there first.
 
I had an old LeCar with problems like that -- you could actually smell smoke if you put the high-beams and turn signals on at the same time!

Of course it was a flood damaged $200 college beater mobile. The seat configuration and huge stick shift made if feel like I was driving a school bus!

Never bothered to figure out or fix the problems though.
 
Hi Juice,

You should inspect the connector on your alternator. Sometimes the connector can be corrodet.

Check also your main relais (back of passenger seat next to your ECU). If it is loosened it will not ground enough.

If it's not it certainly is another ground problem.

Have luck,
Gerard

[This message has been edited by Gerard van Santen (edited 16 September 2002).]
 
Originally posted by Juice:
For a while now I have been having the following problems. Everything starts out normal enough, but after driving for an hour or so, my speedometer starts freaking out and bouncing all over the place. Eventually (within 20 minutes) the needle drops dead and the odometer no longer keeps track of miles. Also, my headlights might get stuck up, dash lights may go out, etc. I'm scared I may need a new wiring harness all together. Has anyone else experienced this problem. My fear is my aftermarket alarm might be factoring into this.
juice, didnt you install indiglo gauges recently.they might be rubbing the needles.and as you had to disconnect the connectors to the gauge console to install them I would check for rubbing.and check the connectors to the pod are fully ingaged.if you did not install the indiglos please ignore post.but thought i saw you post you did.all the symptoms sound like rubbing needles and maybe a loose connector to the pod and of course loose intermitent ground but that would make your indidglows intermitent also on off
david
ps if you have the indiglows did the problem arise after? and if so where did you wire them to ..just a fyi as my rpm gauge has given me some intermitent problems since install and am wondering if its the qauges connction not just rubbing.mine sticks up around 4k rpm and will rev up from there at launch when acting up.like I show 7000 rpm at 20 mph.
JUST DID A SEARCH:
I don't understand the need to put a black out over the orange face. Why not simply remove the lights behind them? This is what I did.
Has anyone found a way to convert the odometer light to blue? Also, is there anything to paint or cover tiny bulbs with to turn them blue?
that was your gauge post
if the original bulbs were removed and your dash lights are going out IT is probably the indiglows.I am only having the rpm gauge rub.i think the only way to cure that is to tack it with a pin dot of 3m right near the center of the speedo gauge.and check your connectors.bet it solves the problem.I would not worry to much.sounds like just tweaking your install and testing the connctors both the ones to the pod and the tcs, dimmer connectors to the cover console and ground




[This message has been edited by BadCarma (edited 17 September 2002).]
 
Update: I took my NSX to McDavid Acura here in Austin. They traced the problem to a bad speed sensor. The tech's notes say R.R... I assume this means right-rear. It looks like a straight-forward install if that's the problem. If I know for 100% that the problem, I'd probably just do it myself, but I'm letting the dealer mess with it, since it's possible there is something else causing the problem.

------------------
ojaspatel.com/nsx
 
Originally posted by Ojas:
They traced the problem to a bad speed sensor. The tech's notes say R.R... I assume this means right-rear.

It could... but also note that R/R is often used on service tickets as an abbreviation for "Remove and Reinstall".
 
R.R = Remove/Replace

AKA: R&R (If the scribling is clear
smile.gif
)

HTH,
LarryB
 
Having the headlights stick in the "Up" position is a problem I encountered with my '91. In fact, the buttons in the Instrument Cluster Bezel have given me more than one problem In my case it was being caused by the Retractor button on the left side of the dash. The switch was okay, but the connector plug going to it from the wire harness had a problem with not making a firm connection. An open connection in the wire going to the Retractor Control board from the Retractor Switch will cause the lights to stay in the "Up" position. I finally had to insert small gold plated pins into the rear of the connector, alongside the existing pins to help make more firm contact. A small amount of clear epoxy holds them in place. While I was working on the Retractor Switch, I also had problems with the Dash Light Dimmer plug (no dash lights), as well as the TCS Switch plug (no illumination in the switch). The TCS Switch required the same fix. I was able to get the Dash Light Dimmer fixed by a little bending/crimping of the connector pins.

Hope this helps with your headlights and dash lights.

Regards,

Bill

[This message has been edited by Acuraphile (edited 01 October 2002).]
 
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