Crankshaft pully

[Wildinglane]

Changing timing belt and I can't remove the crankshaft bolt, even with a 250 ftlb impact. Anyone have any experience with what it takes to remove this bolt?

 

[VBNSX]

Changing timing belt and I can't remove the crankshaft bolt, even with a 250 ftlb impact. Anyone have any experience with what it takes to remove this bolt?

Get the moroso crank pulley holder and a 6 foot cheater bar along with your breaker bar. PB blaster from a hardware store might help some too.

good luck
-x-

 

[DanO]

You can fix the crankshaft by removing the flywheel inspection cover (the black metal piece at the bottom of the flywheel housing held on by 3 bolts) and have a partner wedge a big flat-blade screwdriver between the flywheel teeth; with the crankshaft fixed in place, then try the impact wrench, and if that doesn’t work then you might have to resort to a ¾” breaker bar with a length of pipe.

.02

DanO

 

[NA1 #2853]

i have a snap on adapter for the honda/acura crank pulleys..... and i have 2 breaker bars.... the adapter goes on one, and a 2ft pipe extension goes on the other. i have never met a crank pulley bolt i couldnt remove with that combination. And i have performormed over 200+ timing belt/water pump changes...... Its a winning combo.

-Ray

 

[Briank]

I just put my car in 5th gear and set the parking brake. Then with a socket and a 24" extension to get me out from under the car I used a 4' pipe over my 1/2" breaker bar and it came right off.

Oh and remember to never, never, never let your engine turn counter-clockwise.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Wildingale,

I use the crank pulley tool from Honda (much like Ray's snapon, I am sure), but I have to say that the NSX Crank bolt is tighter then any other Honda crank pulley.

The Accord is 160 ft. lbs. The NSX is 181 ft.lbs. I know this does not sound like much, but a 1/2 breaker bar was in pieces trying to remove the crank bolt on an NSX. This is after more Accords then I can remember, always using a 1/2 breaker bar. Not sure if it's age, or the additional 21 ft. lbs.

Anyway, a 3/4 breaker bar was what I needed. It is about 2 foot long.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[JPS Europa]

You absolutely need a crank tool. If yours is like mine was, it is not coming off with an impact wrench, even a 3/4 inch electric with 600 ft lbs torque. Be prepared for a major bang when it comes loose. Listen to Larry!

 

[kpond]

By chance, are you using an extension on your impact? If so, it is likely absorbing the "blows". Try using a deep well impact socket and no extension. Mine zipped right off after I took the extension off. No dice at all with the extension.

 

[sjs]

By chance, are you using an extension on your impact? If so, it is likely absorbing the "blows". Try using a deep well impack socket and no extension. My zipped right off after I took the extension off. No dice at all with the extension.

Good advice. But a 250 ftlb impact is on the wear side. A decent one will do 400+ in reverse and a good one 600+. Most of the pre-packaged brand-x sets that people buy are fine for small stuff but no match for a crank pulley bolt.

I did mine the first time with a homemade tool to hold the pulley, an 18 inch breaker bar, and all the strength in my right leg.

 

[kpond]

I use an Ingersoll Rand 2131 .

600 ft-lbs in reverse. As I said, don't use an extension and this baby will make short order of the crank bolt.

 

[sjs]

I use an Ingersoll Rand 2131 .

600 ft-lbs in reverse. As I said, don't use an extension and this baby will make short order of the crank bolt.

Yup, that's exactly what I bought after the first time doing the pulley.

BTW, another important thing to look for is the CFM required to achieve max power. Good ones use less to make more, and if you have a small compressor a few extra bucks for a better impact is money well spent.