Cost of Cracked Gauge pod plastic cover?

Joined
8 March 2006
Messages
146
Location
Huntsville, AL
In preparation for installing my new gauge rings I removed the gauge trim and had the plastic cover/screen 9/10s out when it decided to crack on me.

anyone know what it costs to replace?

I guess I will be calling the dealer tomorrow for the bad news

Rich
 
the rings and dash are fine- its the clear plastic "windshield" that seals of the gauges that cracked.

Rich
 
its under 40 bucks to replace the clear lens.

14sw05_b1210.gif


#17 on diagram - part number: 78156-SL0-003
description GAUGE LENS 1991-2005 NSX
retail: $40.18
discount: $30.13


you should hit up Clint
you can get his contacts from this page.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118259

i've been buying OEM parts from him recently, great service, great prices and speedy delivery.
 
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Thanks!

I thought that was a three hundred dollar crack for sure!




Just emailed clint

Rich
 
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I just got around to installing my cf overlay and gauge rings today and i cracked #17 as well.

Once the overlay is on, the three clips will NOT snap back into place even though it is very close. If you push on the plastic, it will crack.

I will be ordering my new plastic lens tomorrow.:mad:

Also, you have to be VERY careful removing the old plastic rings. The small side ones fell right out with a slight push but the ones around the speedo and tach had to be patiently leveraged from the back with a small flat head screwdriver. It felt like mine were almost spot glued in place. I found it best to start in an area where the plastic was the thickest and move around them in a circle.

All in all this wasn't the toughest install but you have to be patient. Also, if the cf overlay is not perfectly straight and i mean PERFECT, you will have to open up the small holes a little to get the rings in. They fit EXTREMELY TIGHT and the little ones don't offer any give like the larger ones seemed to.

I am happy with the looks of the finished results. Now i just have to replace the plastic cover i cracked.:redface:
 
I just install my CF overlay also the other day. How are you guys getting those 3 clips to snap back in place. I gave up trying to force them to snap together.

The hardest part is to get the metal bracket on top, close enough to screw down the tapping screw. It was impossible to get the metal bracket aligned where the plastic dimple goes in the hole of the metal bracket. I ended up just shaving the plastic dimple off with a razor blade. This allowed me to get the metal bracket down to tighten the screw.

I would like to hear how the rest of you guys are getting this done.
 
I just install my CF overlay also the other day. How are you guys getting those 3 clips to snap back in place. I gave up trying to force them to snap together.

The hardest part is to get the metal bracket on top, close enough to screw down the tapping screw. It was impossible to get the metal bracket aligned where the plastic dimple goes in the hole of the metal bracket. I ended up just shaving the plastic dimple off with a razor blade. This allowed me to get the metal bracket down to tighten the screw.

I would like to hear how the rest of you guys are getting this done.

You have to shave off the dimple like you did to make the metal brackets fit and DON'T try to snap in the three clips, thats how i cracked mine. The bottom two were so close that i thought a little pressure would get it there and then crackolla.
 
I was in the process of installing my trim rings. I got the bolster off and took the screws off for the thin black plastic trim in front of the clear lens but it didn't want to come out. Do I need to remove anything on the steering column to get that black trim piece out? It's pretty thin so I don't want to force it out. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!:confused:
 
Did you remove the 4 screws on the bottom (2 screw each side)? Did you remove the two screws on the top?

Make sure you disconnect the plugs on each side (one larger one on the left side and a smaller one on the right side).

Make sure you tilt the steering wheel all the way down and move the steering wheel all the way back away from the cluster.
 
Yes, I did remove the six screws, but, I didn't think about dropping the steering wheel down...hello.

Thanks VSY05 for the insight.:smile:
 
Getting the cluster out is a little tricky if you are not taking out the plastic steering column covers. It makes it easier, but is not absolutely necessary.

Be very careful not to damage or break the Trip meter reset sticking out. Just keep it in mind when your moving the cluster IN and OUT.

To remove the cluster without removing the steering column covers, tilt the cluster face down, then move it to the side (do not try to remove the cluster out over the top of the steering wheel). I normally remove it to the right side. Make sure you HOLD down (not just tilt and release) the steering wheel to give you extra room. Have someone else pull the steeing wheel tilt lever on the bottom and hold the steering wheel down while you try to slide the cluster out if you can.
 
Getting the cluster out is a little tricky if you are not taking out the plastic steering column covers. It makes it easier, but is not absolutely necessary.

Be very careful not to damage or break the Trip meter reset sticking out. Just keep it in mind when your moving the cluster IN and OUT.

To remove the cluster without removing the steering column covers, tilt the cluster face down, then move it to the side (do not try to remove the cluster out over the top of the steering wheel). I normally remove it to the right side. Make sure you HOLD down (not just tilt and release) the steering wheel to give you extra room. Have someone else pull the steeing wheel tilt lever on the bottom and hold the steering wheel down while you try to slide the cluster out if you can.


This is exactly how i did it and it wasn't too difficult a task.
 
Thanks again for the info. I was trying again today but could not figure out how to get my hand in the back of the TCS, gauge brightness, and headlight pop-up switches to remove the black plastic trim. It doesn't move much so I'm assuming that the wires are holding the trim back and must be disconnected. Any tips on disconnecting the switches???
 
Did you remove the leather knee booster and the sheet metal panel behind it?

Move the seat all the way back, and lay on your back to look underneath. That will help you see what you are doing, if you are doing it for the first time.

You do not have to pop out the switches. It comes out with the black plastic trim as a unit.

There are four green wire harness connectors you have to remove underneath (2 connectors for the black plastic trim and 2 more connectors for the cluster unit). To remove the harness, push in the center push tab, then wiggle the connector loose.
 
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I have taken apart and overhauled meter assemblies many times. I never had anything break.

There's nothing that needs to be altered so it comes apart or goes together and once out of the car ( a 15 minutes job tops) to change out the rings, most of the time is spent finding a parts cup, clearing a place to sit down and spreading out a towel so nothing gets scratched or lost. :confused: The actual overhaul of the assembly to R&I the rings is maybe 10 minutes?

How much Starbucks are you guys drinking?
 
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The hardest part is to get the metal bracket on top, close enough to screw down the tapping screw. It was impossible to get the metal bracket aligned where the plastic dimple goes in the hole of the metal bracket. I ended up just shaving the plastic dimple off with a razor blade. This allowed me to get the metal bracket down to tighten the screw.

That's because you put it back on incorrectly. It sounds like you put it back on upside down.

I suggest for you fellows that are not use to this kind of work to take some some digital photos of the unit at every angle before you take it apart. That way you can refer to the pics to make sure you are reassembling things correctly.

Another tip is get a piece of corrugated cardboard and put the screws in that as you take them out, labeling and circling where the parts came out for each section by writing on the cardboard.
 
Are you referring to the metal bracket that is upside down? I put it back together the same way I took it apart. I am certain of that.

It fits fine when I put it back to stock visor assembly. I think the CF overlay is a little too thick, which makes it hard to snap lens cover back together. Maybe I just got a bad batch and my CF overlay is thicker than others.

If you are just putting in the trim rings, you will not have this problem.

But I appreciate your suggestions. Your much more knowledgeable about this car than I am.
 
I'm about to take the cluster apart and install the CF overlay and chrome rings. I'm going to try to document everything step by step with photos for a nice DIY. I can't seem to find one on the forum or on the wiki page for Prime.

This is such a common mod and task, I would assume it has been addressed already. If so, can someone link that thread?
 
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