Connecting Rod Question

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20 September 2006
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Location
New Jersey
To all you guys out there using aftermarket rods....are you adding moly to the crank to compensate for the extra weight of the rods? The SOS rods claim to be a plug and play replacement but if they are in fact Oliver rods they add like 1 1/2 lbs of wieght to the assembly. I am not trying to call anyone out just trying to make right decisions on my build. Thanks in advance. Only reason I used SOS as an example is because they were the only ones I could find.
 
To rebalance the rotating assembly, my machinist added tungsten to the crank.
The resulting balance was much better than from the factory. You can rev the engine to 8000 RPM's and the engine does not rock a fraction of an inch. You can literally set a glass on the intake and it doesn't move!
Find a good machine shop and you should be good to go.
 
To all you guys out there using aftermarket rods....are you adding moly to the crank to compensate for the extra weight of the rods? The SOS rods claim to be a plug and play replacement but if they are in fact Oliver rods they add like 1 1/2 lbs of wieght to the assembly. I am not trying to call anyone out just trying to make right decisions on my build. Thanks in advance. Only reason I used SOS as an example is because they were the only ones I could find.

I'm starting my engine build shortly & just received my OLiver Rods from Autowave still waiting on the pistons that I ordered from SoS .Is re balancing the crank mandatory ?Thanks for the info
 
The Oliver rods are heavier than stock rods so I would think so.....maybe SOS can chime in since they are selling them as a direct replacement. Well actually I take that back. I would assume they are Oliver rods rebranded....I could be wrong but since Autowave def is selling/using them would love to hear from one of those guys as well.
 
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To rebalance the rotating assembly, my machinist added tungsten to the crank.
The resulting balance was much better than from the factory. You can rev the engine to 8000 RPM's and the engine does not rock a fraction of an inch. You can literally set a glass on the intake and it doesn't move!
Find a good machine shop and you should be good to go.

What was the additional fee to have the assembly rebalanced?
 
Just to clarify, I do have Oliver rods. My recollection is that it was around $600-$700 more for the rebalance. This included the tungsten which was about $200. I'm not sure how to attach a photo from an IPad. Otherwise, it would be clear. The machinist had to drill about 1" holes in the crank counter balance and weld in the tungsten rod.
FYI, Shane from Autowave gave me the number to their machinist and he verified the balance ratio on an NSX is 50% rotating to 50% reciprocating.
This is not an optional item, you must rebalance the engine. Also, if you resleeve the block with a closed deck, such as Darton MID, you must use a torque plate to bore & hone the cylinders.
If anyone needs to rent a torque plate let me know, I had to buy one for $450. I also own a Timesert kit(another $450) if anyone needs to put steel inserts in the block for head studs.

Hope this helps,
Todd
 
If anyone needs to rent a torque plate let me know, I had to buy one for $450. I also own a Timesert kit(another $450) if anyone needs to put steel inserts in the block for head studs.

Hope this helps,
Todd

Is your torque plate for a 90.5mm or 93mm bore please? If it's for a 90.5mm I may be interested in renting it... could you please PM me?

Thank you,

Dave
 
My personal motor is using Crower rods, and I had my rotating assembly balanced out to 10k rpm. It set me back $750. They did add filler.
 
I think what SOS means by:

The ScienceofSpeed 4340 H-Beam Connecting Rod is a direct drop-in connecting rod for both the factory 3.0L and 3.2L crankshafts.

Is that the rod itself is a part that will drop in without any modifications required to it. (ie, you will not have to re-size it as if it were a rod meant for another application that you are retrofitting, etc) In other words, trying to say that this is a NSX-Specific part, Not that it doesn't require any machine work to be used correctly...
 
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