comptech headers and flexpipe repair

[robr]

Anyone ever have to deal with comptech header flexpipe repairs? I just had my car at Mechanics Direct to fix what we thought was an exhaust leak and to have my cats put back on. It turns out the exhaust is fine, but the flexpipe on the headers is leaking and Mitch said it would probably be very difficult to repair. He also was afraid of putting the cats back on because removing the exahaust might make the headers worse. I'm trying to figure out if there's a cheaper way out of this than replacing the headers which between parts and labor is probably a couple grand. Any recommendations?

 

[ScienceofSpeed]

Anyone ever have to deal with comptech header flexpipe repairs? I just had my car at Mechanics Direct to fix what we thought was an exhaust leak and to have my cats put back on. It turns out the exhaust is fine, but the flexpipe on the headers is leaking and Mitch said it would probably be very difficult to repair. He also was afraid of putting the cats back on because removing the exahaust might make the headers worse. I'm trying to figure out if there's a cheaper way out of this than replacing the headers which between parts and labor is probably a couple grand. Any recommendations?

These headers are the old DC manufactured headers.

To repair, they should be removed from the car. I believe they are 2.25" pipe. Cut out the flex pipe section, and reweld a new section of braided stainless flex pipe which is a much stronger design. Any decent exhaust shop will be able to help you with this.

Regards,
-- Chris

 

[D'Ecosse]

Contact titaniumdave - see this post for his repair on DCSports who made the original CT's.
Dave retro'd his bellows to the new ball joint design.

 

[titaniumdave]

I can help you with this repair.

Here is a thread showing what I have found is a good and permanent fix:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33707

I have jigs for 91-94 headers, so pretty easy to get a good fit up and easy install once they are done. $90 for parts and $150 labor for each header, all TIG stainless filler and tubing.

I could not find a 2 1/4" flex joint which was short enough to be a direct repalcement. There are 2 1/2" ones out there, but it ends up being a pain to get everything to fit up. I like getting rid of the flex all together and this flange and doughnut set has been working well. PM me if I can help either with the parts or the whole repair.
Dave

 

[robr]

thanks for the info, i can't really be without my car (every day driver, my only vehicle) so i've forwarded it on to mitch to see if maybe it's a project he'd be willing to take on. titanium dave, can you elaborate on what's involved with the labor so that anyone who may want to take on the job knows what they're getting themselves into? based on the labor costs, it sounds like it might be a lot of work.

 

[titaniumdave]

I do the work out of the car, figure it takes 2- 3 hours. Most DC headers are ceramic coated, all the coating needs to be removed before I weld. This can take quite a while because the tubes are pretty thin and I don't want to compromise the collector. Same goes for the flange which attaches to the exhaust side. Take care to not ruin the the seal which might be floating loose, might still be attached to the inner flex pipe tubing.

Once it is apart, I fit the header and exhaust flange into my jig. I fit up the new flange parts so to allow access to all the bolts, grind back the collector to fit one on that side. With the flanges connected, I fit up a section stainless tubing to bridge between the second new flange and the exhaust flange, tack all the parts and double check the clearances. Once I am happy with the set up, I weld all the parts together with stainless steel filler rod while back purging the joint. Final part is to grind off any blow through and smooth the bore.

Hope this helps,
Good luck!

 

[robr]

Well I guess I'm looking for some slightly used headers. Crap, here I was dreading the cost of needing a new exhaust and this is far worse (labor-wise).

MD checked out the recommendations in this thread but the recommendation is, that the headers themselves after living through 10 years of New England weather are rusted everywhere, and are not worth saving.

One more thing for my wife to use to pressure me into getting rid of the car. Sigh.

 

[titaniumdave]

Bummer.

I have seen one set of the DC headers which had a bunch of rust, I was able to save them but they were a pain to do. They were rusted where the collector slid over the header tubes...might be able to do the same for you. Post pics if you can...

 

[robr]

Thanks TD again for all the info above. I'll see what I can get pics of, and I *REALLY* appreciate the offer of help, but again with this being my only car I'm sort of hosed (nor am I mechanically inclined enough to do the labor myself).

The wife just called and asked what I was doing so I told her I'm trying to find the most cost effective way of fixing my car (which may just be going back to stock). Of course she started in again on getting rid of the car and that the repairs I need work out to more than having another car payment (I need new synchros), that things are going to keep breaking and that with a 15mo old and one due next month, I have no business having a 2 seater. Hey, for a 15 year old car, I think this Acura is hanging in there great!!!

 

[D'Ecosse]

Rob - it sounds like whichever way you go, you have to remove the header(s) regardless. Why not proceed with the removal & then just ship to TD for repair? You could get away with just the one in the interim I suppose to save on the repair plus install labour, however with the work involved to remove, night be better to do both & be done with it, especially if it's the front (if rear may be worth considering just the one).

Header removal/install seems like a big job & it is obvioulsy much easier with a lift to get unencumbered access. However it is really just all bolt-on stuff you're dealing with & not something really complex like a TB. Several have done these on jack-stands & there are a couple of good write-ups on the whole procedure. If you're really on a budget, consider giving it a go (especialy if just the rear!) & see if TD can do a quick turn-around for you & use express shipping to minimize the down-time. Hopefully the Mrs will give you kudos for seeing how much you're prepared to put in to save the dollars for family benefit.

Here's a good guide by a first-timer and another guide in the FAQ

 

[robr]

I recall reading Nick M's post when he first did his own headers and said to myself 'I will NEVER attempt that' . Seriously, I am not mechanically inclined in the least. I don't have a garage, tools or patience. I know what my limitations are so I do not work on cars (or stereo installs) or anything of that sort. If you want a PC thrown together, I can do that in 5 minutes, but I can barely handle building IKEA furniture without being tempted to throw the pieces out the window.

I'll just suck it up and keep my eyes open for someone selling headers. The wife wouldn't appreciate me trying to do it myself anyway, she'd look at it as me wasting time on my 'stupid car' instead of spending it with her and my kid.

I was looking at used Acura TLs online yesterday (they really seem to be holding their value!) then kept thinking to myself how I would feel parting with my car (not to mention it's been paid off since 1999... why would I want another car payment just to drive something that I would always compare to one of the greatest cars on earth).