Comptech camber kit install.

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20 March 2009
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Hey guys,
So I end up buying Comptech's camber kit and I will be doing the install my self.
I have been serching the forum and I can't find any info on how to do the install.
I know I have to remove both controll arms, does that mean that I have to remove the driveshafts too?
Edit, I will be using the Harbour freight tool, and I know to use enough nut on the ball joint bolt so it doesnt bent,
Are the controll arms bolts all under pressure? or just the ball joints?
Meaning do I have to use the tool on all of the joints or just the Balljoints?


I am going to the garage to start this instal, if you guys have any tips on this please trow them out here because seems like I will need lots of help.

-MSR
 
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Comptech makes a CAMBER KIT?
Got a pic?

I got the Tom's camber kit installed. I tried to install it but gave up. I couldn't get the ball end of the upper 'A' arm loose. The kit I got offsets the upper 'A' arm outwards about 1 inch. It's really hard to get that upper ball loose.

here is a pic
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=137689

Rich
 
Yes Comptech makes a camber kit, I bought comptech's because I couldnt afford Dave's kit.
Here a pic of the kit:




And description on how they work:

  • Comptech Competition Camber Adjuster Ball Joint Mounts
  • Designed to replace the centered stock steel ball joint mounts pressed into the front upper & lower control arms
  • These mounts make it possible subtract up to 2 degrees camber
  • This allows alignment to be brought into the -4 degree range desired by track driven NSXs with slicks
  • These machined ball joint mounts will press into the upper and lower control arm and offset the main upright, giving you more static negative camber to start with, then adjust the alignment as normal to your specific track specifications
  • Once in place these mounts are fixed & can not be adjusted
  • Comes with parts for both front upper and lower control arms of the Acura NSX
  • Application: All Acura NSX
And here is the link to where I got them from:
http://daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/index_browse_part.cfm?focus=1300

I did not start on the car today, I have study the whole thing I should be able to install them on my day off.

P.S, this kit is for the front arms.

-MSR
 
Are you trying to increase your FRONT negative camber? Or decrease?
 
Oh, they are for the front. :redface:

Even with my car at 1 inch lower there is enough adjustment to get the factory specs. What camber specs are you trying for and is your car lowered? :confused:
 
^

I agree, I'm lowered about 2 inches, and I run -1 in the fronts...which is fine by me. It can also go more negative of course...and as I understand it, front camber kit is useless, unless you are going really negative to track, which makes sense.


Another thing that didn't make sense:
I bought comptech's because I couldnt afford Dave's kit

You bought the FRONT camber kit because you couldn't afford the REAR camber kit? Just trying to make sense of what you are trying to do...

I'm not knocking....I'm all about camber kits... :smile:
 
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I need more agreesive specs, because is a track car.
I coulnt afford Dave's NEW front camber kit which allows you to go back to factory specs if need it, so I bought comptech's.

Yes I am trying to increase my negative camber to about -3 degrees.
I need it for track days, since my car is not giving me more than -1.3 per side at the moment.

-MSR
 
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Bill at Performance Alignment in Blue Ash, OH installed mine. Call him and he can answer install questions....

513-489-8500

PS - Bill has been a chassis engineer for many, many race teams since the 60s including F1, Audi AMLS, Nissan GTP, etc. He can answer ANY of your alignment/setup questions for you. :tongue:
 
Ok, So I am finally getting to this install.
And I'am stuck, I am using the freight harbor tool to press the controll arms out.
The lower controll arm and the front tie rod came out ok, but the upper controll arm is just not coming out!!!

I dont know how hard should I be cranking my rachet, I am using a 1/2" ratchet and it has gotten pretty tough to turn, should I use a bar to aply more lavarage?

I am afraid, I will crack the arm, how much force should I apply?

Imput please,

-MSR
 
Well, it just didn't happened.
I've pull as much as I could with a big breaker bar, and nothing!!!
Nothing broke, but the tool stripped!!!
I am putting it together and I will take it to a shop.
Sucks!!!
1872ea23-38eb-eea9.jpg
 
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I heated the aluminum with a torch to make it expand and then it worked. Seemed dangeroust with that flame and all but it worked. I also used compressed air on a storng gun. That made it easier. Did you try that sledge hammer part? I did not but it worked for the guy in the link.

Good luck
 
Well , I did tap it with a hammer, but there isn't much room to give it a good whack.
The new developed problem is that the lower control arm's bolt that actually poped, is now spinning with the nut altogether!!

I am not going to mess around with it anymore, I am taking it to the shop(in the spring) I'll just put it back together.

A proper impact gun, should do the trick.

I can't beleave the tool striped!!

Thanks,

-MSR
 
Well, it just didn't happened.
I've pull as much as I could with a big breaker bar, and nothing!!!
Nothing broke, but the tool stripped!!!
I am putting it together and I will take it to a shop.
Sucks!!!
1872ea23-38eb-eea9.jpg

I have one of those ball joint removers and when I first got it I noticed that the threads felt a bit rough.
The solution is to put a bit of anti seize compound on the threads before you use it, it really smooths things out. I used an impact gun to tighten the screw,it
goes off like a gun shot when it lets go but it works just fine.
What ever you do don't go swinging a hammer on, or apply heat to your aluminum suspension.

John
 
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