Comparing several NSXs for purchase -advise please

T

tbromley

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Joined
13 April 2009
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Atlanta, GA
HI Guys,

I'm looking at 4 NSXs. Three of them are extremely low mileage - which is good and all original. The fourth has the highest miles a 33k but is the newest.

1. 91 - Red/black NSX - 9500 miles - Bids taken will include timing belt/water pump service. Has one small door ding in quarter panel.

2. 92 - White on black with 14k miles- not sure if it's snap ring or not, checking on WP/TB service. Asking too much 40k.

3. 93 silver/black 12,500 miles same high price 40k. Has had a partial paint on fender from "scratch". Still original fender. Not good but it may not be bad. No TB/WP yet.

4. 94 white/tan, with 33k miles - same price 40k. Non stock radio and console plastic changed to suite Alpine stereo. Chrome wheels but OEM type. Very nice shape except for repainted front valence and maybe bumper too- not sure. Don't like the wheels and don't like the fact that the stock radio is gone and dash was changed. Don't like the fake graphite door plastic inserts. Are chrome factory wheels easy to sell - they are 7 spoke.

Trying to find original cars for my first one with low mileage and when looking for that it is very difficult to find models later than these examples that are not out of my price range. Although the last one is not such low mileage and obviously not stock which I believe is the most desireable type for me. What do mods like the ones mentioned do to detract from price?

Anyone have an idea what cars with super low miles should go for. Some of these have had more owners than others. Silver one has had 3, the 92 has had 4, the 91 has had 2, the 94 has had 4 owners. All the seats look fairly nice as they should. Surprising though how folks can stress out the drivers side bolster even at 9500 miles.

Is completely all original paint a big deal, or would one expect that front valences will require paint at one point or another. It is pretty difficult to find cars with 30k + miles that haven't had some front bumper paint work.

What about mods that remove the stock radio and radar detectors wired in thru the phone module for turning on and off? Things like that make me nervous about buying electrical problems.

Anything you guys can think of to steer me in the best direction would be helpful, although I want a low mileage vehicle so the later models are too high for me.

Tim
atlanta
 
Tim,
What is your budget? Try to get a NA2 1997+ if you can for the drivetrain or a coupe for the rigidity. If you can get both configurations, it would be perfect. IMO, don't get a dash that is cut up for custom stereo.
Steve
 
I like no.1. If it's a small ding, there are dentless repair guys that can work miracles. Just pick the right guy and you'll have zero paint work.
 
The red one isn't bad, it's actually probably the best and I can negotiate the TB/WP/hoses for about 2 grand. I may be able to get this one around 37k or so. Do you think that's a good price.

Tell me something else - are red cars "cop magnets". I've always thought they were.

I also heard that red oxidises worse than any other paint. Also that the rubber bumpers will change color over time - maybe they all will?

Anyway, I personally like the Silver one but I am hoping it's Sebring silver - but it may be Kaiser. Not sure. 12k miles is still very low.

So why do you like the red one?
 
Whichever car you end up buying, be sure to do a PPI. Before even doing that, I would literally try every switch and control on the car there is. I did not do this when I bought my 1991 and "paid the price" thinking the PPI would turn-up anything not working. Even though it was done at a reputable dealership with an NSX technician, I still found things that did not work weeks later.

Also, as you commented, my car had electrical mods done (nav, HID, etc.). According to the technician, the wiring was a total mess. Among other things, I ended-up having to buy a new climate control unit ($2000 + labor!). Bring someone with you to do your own inspection. That includes making sure all the lights work. Paying someone $110/hr can get expensive to troubleshoot and fix things that don't work.

Best of luck to you!
 
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I would pick the silver one lol but thats really is just because of the color there is just to ,many red ones out there I think it is sebring silver they were made in 91 to 93 I believe but then you look at my car its a 96 but its sebring silver so I begin to question myself at times with these cars lol I would offer 38,000 tops for that red one it would be the best bang for your buck for sure

Good luck boss
 
tbromley said:
The red one isn't bad, it's actually probably the best and I can negotiate the TB/WP/hoses for about 2 grand. I may be able to get this one around 37k or so. Do you think that's a good price.

Tell me something else - are red cars "cop magnets". I've always thought they were.

I also heard that red oxidises worse than any other paint. Also that the rubber bumpers will change color over time - maybe they all will?

Anyway, I personally like the Silver one but I am hoping it's Sebring silver - but it may be Kaiser. Not sure. 12k miles is still very low.

So why do you like the red one?
Click to expand...

the 93 better be Sebring Silver, since it was the only silver they made in 93...all 26 of them:cool:

personally I think all the ones you are looking at seem a bit over priced in todays market...you can buy a very clean 91-94 for less then $30K and you can find clean 97+(NA2's) for high 30's....keep looking, it is a buyers market so take advantage of it...
 
I don't know if you want my opinion or not but I think you are paying a hell of a premium for the mileages. Much better to get a very well maintained one that has a few more miles. I think someone mentioned this before in another thread of yours.

Just to give you an example, I paid $27,500 for my supercharged 93 coupe. It was super clean, compression and leakdown were both nearly perfect, had full detailed records, body was great with just the usual rock chips in the front. About the only thing I changed was the seats as the drivers side bolster was worn. I found a set of mint seats from a car with only 5000 miles on it for $1500. My car had 80,000 miles. In my mind the supercharger valuation made up for the mileage. If I were you I would look in the 40-50,000 mile range and expect to pay $25-30K. Just my $0.02
 
Why is the 92 white on black too much if the 91 red is not too much at a negotiated 37K? I would go the white at 35K. and yes I realize his asking is 40K but offer 35, he'll sell.
 
Hey Guys,

Ok, the 94, 33k miles - white on tan - guy is down to 37 and it's perfect inside except the radio and console aren't OEM and the wheels are chrome. He said he'd lower the price for the wheels. I told him the radio bugs me more than the wheels and would be a lot harder to put right.

Any or you guys ever gone back to stock with a radio? He's also got the radar detector wired thru the phone off and on buttons. But I like white best of all. What would it cost to get an OEM radio and put it back to stock - anyone venture a guess??

Next the 9500 mile red car is a 91 - how does anyone figure it's the best bang for the buck. It's close to 40. I don't like red but it's nice.

There's another red one a 93 I haven't mentioned - has 33k on it and it's in nice shape. 32k if I take it without the TB/WP service and do it my self or 35 with it done or so. It's got new tires too.

The silver one 93 with 12,500 miles that's only 3k more than the red 91 with 9500, and it doesn't have a passenger side air bag. That's no deal. It's just super low mileage but 3k more miles doesn't mean the silver one isn't going to feel like a new car. I've already told him that if I buy it and he finds the TB/WP service isn't done, I'll take that off the price - he know that and if the tires are bad I'll take that off too.

The only hitch on the Silver one is the "scratch" repair. I need a close up of that. It's a good car and Silver is a much more rare color than red. I"ve always liked silver but white is my favorite.

The white 92 with 14k miles is nice but it doesn't have an air bag either. I think for safety's sake my passenger would appreciate it and most of the time that'd be my wife - I"d appreciate it too. Who cares about room in the glove box.

The white 94 could be returned to stock. It's had front valence paint work and I believe if I keep working the guy a little I'll get another 2k off the price and then I'd have a little to bring it back to OEM. I'd just have to fool with it. Find a guy that is really knowledgeable about the radios and wiring. The rest is easy - wheels and plastic in the arm rest area. Not a big deal. Get the stupid radar detector out of the ash tray and unwire that. Wiring stuff is a problem. It's got to be done right but if it is and the car is returned to stock - who'll ever know that the radio wasn't the one that came in the car and I'll have a 94 instead of a 93 or 92 or 91 and the later the year the more it's worth.

I feel like some of you guys think I'm paying a premium for super low mileage. There is no doubt but that is what makes all the difference. You can replace the timing belt and water pump and hoses but you can't buy lower mileage. Squeeks and leaks as one said. So low mileage to me is worth it. If I drive 5k a year and I get a car with 14k miles on it, in 4 years I'll have 34k miles on the car. By then that will still be super low mileage. A 93 is the last of the first gen with the original wheels on it. That's a big deal I think. If you want low miles you have to be willing to pay for it. If I go to the 2001 I could do that but I couldn't get low mileage for 37K - no way. I'd have to pay 10 grand more. The difference in performance is negligible if there is any at all. You take 200 pounds off the 97+ cars and then you'd have a faster car - a coupe does that. There were so few coupes in the 97 + cars as to make them almost non existant. Also the cars were originally intended to be as they were in 93. That's the original and they'll always be worth good money. Targas are nice but untill you get to the 2002 + cars it seems to me that there isn't enough difference to make any at all. So why not have the early cars.

That's the logic I'm employing anyway. If I could afford a 2001 with 14k miles on it and I haven't seen one yet come up, I might buy it. But if I had that kind of money I'd just go ahead and get the 2002 last gens or later with low miles and pay the high 50s or low 60s. Otherwise I think that if you wanted more power you can get it easy with an exhaust system and headers - 20 hp more and then you're at the 2001 hp with 200 pounds less weight. You don't get the 6 speed but how much is that worth to you? I'd rather have a coupe I believe if I can't have the 2002 or later.

Now what do you think? That 93 silver with a bit of paint may be a real good buy, but the white one with different wheels is a good one too. Return it to OEM and get it for 35k - not bad.

Tim
 
Squeeks and rattles? on an NSX? are you kidding me?

Personally, having had a '91 NSX as a daily driver from 35K miles to 90K miles over 5 years, I had ZERO problems with squeeks and rattles. I'd say any NSX, regardless of mileage should not exhibit any at all. That's the beauty of this car.

I would care most about the car being original, especially paintwork. That helps the car retain is value the most. Anything else, you can modify to your taste, but reversing a mod is just wasted money and anything irreversible, like the radio/climate control, is a deal breaker for me. The only mod I would consider is HID.

I'd probably also stay away from supercharged/turbocharged due to uncertainty on impact of engine, but that is purely personal opinion.

Mileage, within limits, e.g., 50K, 60K, etc is less important than a good maintenance history, and having they key NSX-related issues taken care of (e.g. TB/WP, window regulators, snap ring (if relevant)) and compression/leakdown tests.

Good luck and make sure to get a PPI.
 
I agree with above - low mileage cars that old might have developed problems from not being driven *enough* over the past 15-18 years. Nothing worse than a car that "sits" IMHO. Maintenance is the key. Personally I'd rather save that 5K+ premium and buy a higher mileage car that has been well maintained and put that money in the future preventive maintenance fund.
 
tbromley said:
The silver one 93 with 12,500 miles that's only 3k more than the red 91 with 9500, and it doesn't have a passenger side air bag. Tim
Click to expand...


Tim,
ALL 1993 and up cars should have the passenger airbags. If this one does not, run away from it since the car was probably hit or stripped and was not repaired appropriately. I gathered the owner just slapped on some junkyard parts from a 1991 or 1992.
Steve
 
Hey Guys,

Let me ask any of you - how hard would it be to convert a car radio - alpine after market back to the original bose unit and stock console ac/tape/bose unit plastic surround? I like the 94 a lot but the non OEM stuff would have to go. It just looks bad. It would look real bad to a purist. I'm a purist too and I don't like it at all.

You can rebuild those systems but I understand the speakers are difficult. Anyone know anything about rebuilding this OEM stuff and how much it costs?

One other thing; one of you guys said "get the 93 it's the lightest". Why is it any lighter than the 94? What am I missing. Is it the wheels?

thanks,
Tim
 
All you have to do is get an OEM Head Unit (I believe there is a new one for sale now in the Marketplace) and an OEM center console - new from the dealer ~ $400 +/- depending on year.

Buy the SOS harness adapter and hook the OEM HU up to the rest of the system (amp & speakers).

Now it looks completely stock but with much better sound. You would be absolutely CRAZY if you wanted to put the OEM Bose speakers back in - purist or not. That would be like putting Lucas Electronic (the Prince of Darkness) parts back in an English sportscar when you had an alternative.
 
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I would pick the car that appears to be taken care of the best and has the fewest owners. I prefer mow milage cars as I believe there is less wear and tear non the car overall.

I dont think you can go wrong with any of the cars you have listed. Are these cars on Prime? You can get alot of history from cars that are on the forum.

I dont know why so many people are worried about original paint. If your car id fixed and painted correctly you wont be able to tell. I think it is overrated.

The current owner of the car will be your best input in making the decision.
 
Hey Guys,

I surely do appreciate all this feedback. Really!!! Yep, I've seen the one you guys are talking about and I thought about it. It's a real nice looking car and the wheels are really nice too - I've seen them on other NSXs.

There are a couple of things I'll mention; 1. I do want to daily drive it about half the time. Around 5k miles a year. So low mileage is always a plus. I found a really nice super stock example but I can't get the dealer to call me back. I'm now wondering if he's out of business but he won't even answer his cell phone. Doesn't sound good. That would be the 93 Sebring silver with 12,500 miles on it. Has had a little paint for a scratch - how big a scratch I don't know. Haven't been able to really get to him enough to get all the answers. On the surface it sounds like the car I'd like and it's only 500 miles from me in Cincinnatti. ; 2. I want a passenger side air bag - I know that sounds funny but I like my passengers and want them safe as possible. And heck - if I have to wait for the right one it's no big deal for me. I've just started my search and if it takes a year to find the right one then so be it.

Does anyone out there live in around Cincinnatti? I'd love someone to tell me if there is a chain across the shop. It's Center Motors Inc. Hamilton Ohio on Hamilton Cleeves road. If anyone is near there let me know.
 
Tim,

I dont get you decision process. Why buy from a dealer when you dont know where the car came from or anything. It was just a trade in and then went to auction.

Dont be concerned with a "paint scratch" as much as you should be concerned with the overall health of the car. There was a dealer that bought a 2003 with 22K miles for a good price (40's). It turns out it was a GM test car and spent all of those miles at the track!! It looks great but was driven very hard.

The car I posted has lots of history and about 15K+ in good mods. Its a real bargain (and I dont even know the guy). I think the consensus is pretty clear from the other input...get that car! :smile:

Seriously, that car is a good deal. Hes open to offers as well.

Driving 5k a year is perfect. Keeps everything running good but not too many miles.

My .02
 
Hey Guys,

I have looked at the car you are talking about here - the 91 with 39k miles and lots of mods. I'm sure it's a good car and it could be returned to stock, and if it was it would still be minus the passenger side airbag. It's the first year and is a pretty car and is just like the one I'm trying to find out about in Cincinnatti. The one in Ohio is 12,400 miles and completely stock except for a "scratch" repair and partial panel paint.

The dealer knows the history and it is this; this dealer has another car dealer buddy in the area. The other dealer got this car and others in from a doctor getting rid of a lot of his toys including this car and a Supra, and one other. The dealer liked the NSX and got that from the original owner and told his other buddy, car salesman, if he ever sold it he'd have first dibs. 2 years later he needs to sell the car and this salesman buys it and keeps it for 6 months and decides to sell it too. Ok, so where's the maintenance history, all these questions and more I have for him. But it's not an auction car. So it looks just liike the one you guys are sending me but it has no mods and is totally stock and is a 93 that has an airbag with less than half the miles - ummmm, so excuse me, I think if I can get consideration for the Timing Belt/water pump it would be a better deal than the one heavily moded for me. I would be able to enjoy the car from a stock perspective.

My only hang up is getting proper documentation, verifiable, service records and what the deal is on the paint? If that comes out satisfactory then I believe it would be a good car. If I didn't mind heavily moded cars I would jump on the one you guys sent. How do I really know how this racer was driven - maybe out of the rain but probably raced around like crazy. Is that better? Sure it has a lot of stuff that could come off and be returned to stock but then it would be a 91 without an airbag on the passenger side.

That's my logic anyway.

Tim
 

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