See, nothing wrong with zip-ties. :biggrin:
The hard part for you Dave is learning to adjust them. Here is the simplistic idea to find a baseline.
For the track:
1. Leave your high speed bump (compression) where it was originally set.
2. Turn low speed bump (comp) and rebound to full soft.
3. Drive the track of few laps and keep adjusting the low speed bump up (stiffer) until the car feels like it is beginning to skip on the turns. Then back it down a little.
4. Now that the bump (comp) is set, go out and drive and keep increasing the rebound until the car smoothly rolls into the turns. Not too fast and not too slow.
You want max low speed bump (comp) you can use without the car skipping over the bumps. But you want the min amount of rebound that lets the car smoothly roll into the turns.
The really, really hard part about this is recognizing what you are feeling. The bump and the car skipping is pretty easy, but adjusting the rebound and feeling if the car is rolling too fast or two little is much harder.
For the street:
Set low speed bump (comp) and rebound to full soft. Increase low speed bump until the car stops feeling like a Cadillac (not a CTS-V though 
). The idea is have just enough bump/compression to control the springs so that the car doesn't bounce up and down oscillating after a bump. You have seen cars with bad shocks how they keep bouncing up and down after going over a bump.... there is no dampening and the spring loads and unloads over and over again until the energy is dissipated. Your bump/compression basically absorbs this turning the motion into heat. So on the street you just want enough bump/comp to stop that bouncing. Rebound you increase a little at a time after each drive to the point where the car doesn't feel too floaty. If it feels to stiff and jarring, then you went too far with the rebound.
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