Clutch slave access - from the top?

[infoage1]

Quick question (and I did do a bunch of searches first ):

My friend has a 93 (~70,000 miles) and is experiencing, what sounds to me, like some possible hydraulic issues with his clutch: Low pedal engagement/disengagement and more recently, some difficultly going into 5th. I offered to inspect and bleed the clutch for him tomorrow, but, from my searches, I'm not sure if I can access the slave to bleed it from the engine compartment?

From my searches of your forum, it wasn't clear. I hope so, as I don't think he has the OEM jack or ramps, and I know how low the car is...

Thanks, Tom

 

[Hugh]

I'm not sure if I can access the slave to bleed it from the engine compartment?

Yes. It is easily accessible from the top. If you look straight down with your forehead about even with the coolant bottle, you'll clearly see the nipple. This is definitely one of those places where a Speed Bleeder would make a lot of sense. The correct part for the clutch slave is SB8125L

If you find that there is leakage from the slave, replace the short flexible fluid hose back there as well. It is just as prone to springing a leak.

 

[infoage1]

Cool. Thank you for the quick reply.

I'll recommend the the Speed Bleeder and hose if the slave is FUBAR; I'm not sure if my good samaritanisum will extend into a full-blown repair. I just didn't want to see him get talked into a new gearbox for what sounded very possibly like air in the lines. At least this will rule in or out the cheap stuff. From reading your forum, though, it sounds like he may end up needing to buy some hydraulic parts.

I sent him (Ted) links to this forum. You should see him around.

Thanks again, Tom

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Check the reservoir. If low, check the master by looking behind the push rod on the clutch pedal. If it is wet, which many are you need a master/slave replacement. Pretty common failure.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[infoage1]

I'll check the master too. Good idea. I'm going to go look at it in a little bit. I'll let you guys know. Thanks.

Probably not the right place to ask, but does anyone have a recommendation for a tech in, or around, Orange County, CA?

Tom

btw, we saw a large group of NSX's at Crystal Cove a few months ago, some pretty trick hardware...

 

[Tom239]

I'll check the master too. Good idea. I'm going to go look at it in a little bit. I'll let you guys know. Thanks.

Step by step instructions for replacing the master cylinder are here.

Instructions (with photos) for replacing the slave cylinder
(working underneath the car) are here.
After having done it that way, I found out the slave can also
be replaced from above (without having to disassemble the
shift linkage) after removing the air box.

Probably not the right place to ask, but does anyone have a recommendation for a tech in, or around, Orange County, CA?

See this recent thread for a few suggestions.

 

[infoage1]

Step by step instructions for replacing the master cylinder are here.

Instructions (with photos) for replacing the slave cylinder
(working underneath the car) are here.
After having done it that way, I found out the slave can also
be replaced from above (without having to disassemble the
shift linkage) after removing the air box.

See this recent thread for a few suggestions.

Thanks for the links. The master cylinder R&R does not sound or look like too much fun--tight quarters. I had a 2000 Datsun that was also made with hands much smaller than mine....

Speaking of which:

His master is leaking. Not much, as there was plenty of fluid in the reservoir, but the fluid that was in there was very dark. I went ahead and bled the system (no test drive), so we'll have to wait and see it it made a change. Although I told him to replace the master before any more troubleshooting (slave too), could a leaking master, by itself, cause the symptoms?

Also, thanks for the mechanic leads. They've been forwarded as well.

 

[Hugh]

could a leaking master, by itself, cause the symptoms?

Yup

 

[RyanR317]

Going to attempt this this weekend. Any tips for changing the slave and bleeding from the top? I don't have a speed bleeder so i'll have to do it the old fashioned way.

 

[pgilliam1]

You can easily bleed from the slave by just letting the fluid run out on it's own (gravity method). Just keep filling the reservior because it bleeds a lot quicker than brakes do.

 

[Rusted_nailz]

I changed he slave from the bottom. I thought it was easier that way.

 

[RyanR317]

I tackled this this past weekend from the top. Comparing doing it from the top to the pics and steps i've seen in other posts doing it from the bottom, i see no reason not to go in from the top.

You remove the three bolts holding the airbox, then on to the two holding the slave, then the two holding the hose, then reverse the process with the new slave, bleed, and your done!

 

[davidf]

Bleeding may temporarally fix the issue but, if you have to bleed it, theres a problem. If you replace the slave, I'd consider also replacing the master too.

 

[RyanR317]

Bleeding may temporarally fix the issue but, if you have to bleed it, theres a problem. If you replace the slave, I'd consider also replacing the master too.

Not sure if you were responding to my post but i did change the slave. I didn't do the master because it was changed 20k ago.

 

[davidf]

Not sure if you were responding to my post but i did change the slave. I didn't do the master because it was changed 20k ago.

I was refering top the OP.:smile: