Clutch Pedal Sticking after RPS installation

Esprit1

Esprit1

Experienced Member
Joined
4 August 2001
Messages
419
Location
Las Vegas, NV
Either my clutch is driving me nuts or a nut is driving my clutch.

A few months ago my mechanic did a RPS clutch install and had my pedal adjusted pretty high. After a month of thigh exercise, I decided that my leg can take no more. He then adjust it way too low for my vertically challenged physique and left me doing calf exercise for another month. Now that my left leg is double the size of my right, he finally had my pedal adjusted just right.

During the install, he discovered a slight leak in my Slave Cylinder. Since the car is up there in age, I asked my mechanic to replace both Master and Slave. Acura provided us with a pair of rebuilts and in went the RPS among hundreds of other mods.

Between adjustments, it became apparent that my clutch pedal developed a muted squeak and slight stick at or slightly before the clutch engagement point. I've driven extremely touchy clutches before with no problems but this slight stick is causing me a lot of embarrasments......like stalling in front of hundreds of envious audiences ..... :frown:

When I brought the car back to my mechanic, he checked and re-lube most joints. He also double check the cylinders and everything seems okay. He just can't get rid of the stick and an occasional squeak remains.

The most curious thing is that the pedal would occasionally click near the bottom of its travel. And once in a while, the pedal pressure lightens up and felt almost as light as stock with no loss of grip. Am I going nuts??? :rolleyes:

HELP! Paul
 
Sounds like you have a bad pressure plate. The clutch pedal doesn't have a return "spring" or the like that bring the pedal back after you press it down. It relies on the pressure plate to push the slave cylinder piston back, which then forces the fluid back into the master and then finally pushes the piston in the master back against the pedal.

So if it is sticking, then most likely the pressure plate is getting stuck - given that the tech looked at the master/slave and said they are ok - that is the only source of the problem.

You can also try bleeding the system again - a little bit of air usually won't create this symptom, but it only take 5 mins to do, so give that a try first.

Good luck.
 
Make sure the release fork is positioned into its pivot properly, and snaps in like it should. You can do this by removing the slave from its position on the trans, you will not need to open the hydraulics, so no need to bleed it for this. Although you may need to bleed it anyway.

HTH,
LarryB
 
Larry makes a very good point, I would also suspect the pivot on the release fork.
Did you replace the throw out bearing? This might be another area to look if the pivot is not the problem.

Bob
 
Bob Kenney said:
Larry makes a very good point, I would also suspect the pivot on the release fork.
Did you replace the throw out bearing? This might be another area to look if the pivot is not the problem.

Bob
Click to expand...

Thanks Larry and Bob for your suggestion. I was also curious since the pedal would lighten up occassionally where the release fork seem to fall into place and return with the proper leverage. Will have my mechanic take another close look. Sincerely hope it is this simple.

BTW, RPS comes with pre-installed throw out bearing. Actually, it is build into the fingers and cannot be removed by end-users.

Best Regards
Paul
 
Esprit1 said:
BTW, RPS comes with pre-installed throw out bearing. Actually, it is build into the fingers and cannot be removed by end-users.
Click to expand...

Yes, it is welded on.

Take a look at a parts blow up online of the bell housing. You will see the fork pivot has a "spring" that holds the fork in place. Frankly, I hope the spring is OK and it may just be out of place, since I think you would need to pull the trans to replace it.

HTH,
LarryB
 
Considering there is no pivot ball, not sure about your theory;).

Rememeber this is a "pull" clutch.

LarryB
 
My clutch was also replaced with an aftermarket clutch 5k miles ago by the previous owner.

I too have the very annoying stick when the clutch is fully depressed, making it very tricky to take off smoothly, and somewhat reducing the joy of driving the car.

My thread about it is here: http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67615

Anyway, I was curious whether or not you found a resolution to the problem, as of yet. Its interesting that others seem to have similar problems.
 
C-speed said:
Sounds like you have a bad pressure plate. The clutch pedal doesn't have a return "spring" or the like that bring the pedal back after you press it down. It relies on the pressure plate to push the slave cylinder piston back, which then forces the fluid back into the master and then finally pushes the piston in the master back against the pedal.

So if it is sticking, then most likely the pressure plate is getting stuck - given that the tech looked at the master/slave and said they are ok - that is the only source of the problem.

You can also try bleeding the system again - a little bit of air usually won't create this symptom, but it only take 5 mins to do, so give that a try first.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
I was wondering if the pressure on the clutch is consistent all the time. I mean, when i first start the car, the first step on the clutch always seem to feel light (like the factory clutch). But when the car starts to move, I feel more pressure when I step on the clutch. is this normal for the RPS clutch?
 
Ask the tech if the throw-out bearing inner surface is lube with Genuine Honda High Temp Urea Grease, If not, then this might be your problem. The wheel bearing grease that average mechanics used is not approipriate for the nsx. The snot of the tranny also needs to be properly lubed up. The tech may not be aware of this particular grease, Once you can find the truth, the likelihood of resolving this problem is more likely.
 
Thank everyone who replied here for all your valuable suggestions. Just a little update.

Finally got the car up on the lift. After showing my mechanic this thread, he proceed to check the Fork Spring, Clutch Cylinders, Throw-out-bearing, etc. After all is done, my clutch is now buttery smooth. Here's what he did.

1. Visual inspection of Clutch Fork for proper seating and possible shinny spots. (None Found)

2. Physically removed the slave cylinders to check for unusual wear. (None Found)

3. Wipped and clean all luburcated surface and relube with Honda High Temp Urea Grease. This was done twice because sticking and squeaking remain after first try.

I suspect that the clutch assembly wasn't properly lubed before. Now after cleanning and re-lube, the problem is resolved. Hope the problem wouldn't return.

To check-out my clutch, I drove around my complex where I have to stop and go for speed bumps, which I normally never do. As I pull up into my drive-way against my normal direction, I forgot to angle my car at a steeper angle to avoid scraping the WW Lip.

The car will be going back for Lip repair and paint......... :mad:

Best Regards
Paul
 
To check-out my clutch, I drove around my complex where I have to stop and go for speed bumps, which I normally never do. As I pull up into my drive-way against my normal direction, I forgot to angle my car at a steeper angle to avoid scraping the WW Lip.

The car will be going back for Lip repair and paint......... :mad:

Best Regards
Paul[/QUOTE]

Man, i am sorry to hear all the trouble you have to go through. Good luck to you.
 
NSXROC said:
Man, i am sorry to hear all the trouble you have to go through. Good luck to you.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Car will go in for cosmetic repair next week. Will also be doing a FI heart transplant and the car should go as good as it looks in a month. Do prey for me.......

Best Regards
Paul
 
Did you ever resolve your issue with the clutch?
 

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