Clutch Pedal Adjustment

[bonhamsurf]

My clutch is engaging WAY to high, I'm running a brand new SOS Twin Carbon 700. I've read all of the forums I could find, and based on what I've read and the measurements suggested, I'm engaging almost 1 inch too late, so there's only the last 20-30% of my clutch pedal range that's being used to engage.

I know I need to get in there an adjust the clutch master cylinder according the the service manual. I've tried it before, and it's very difficult for me to get up under that area for long, as I recently had shoulder surgery and odd angles (especially for a few minutes) can be difficult.

So, what I'm asking is does anyone have any suggestions on how to make it a little easier?
I have a removable steering wheel, which I take out, and I also remove the driver's seat for more room, but it's still painful to get up in there with wrenches, flashlight, etc, get different bolts off, thread it, etc, etc.

Any suggestions would be very appreciated. Thanks!

 

[davidf]

Remove the drivers seat.

 

[FF Drifter]

Sorry to hear that Paul. Best I can think of is to lay on your back on the floor with the seat removed or to just have someone else do it.

 

[bonhamsurf]

Remove the drivers seat.

Thanks for the suggestion, I actually mentioned this in my original posting, it's the first thing I did when trying after my surgery.

- - - Updated - - -

Sorry to hear that Paul. Best I can think of is to lay on your back on the floor with the seat removed or to just have someone else do it.

When are you coming back to Hawaii for another visit?

- - - Updated - - -

So, I managed to do it yesterday. It was painful but possible. Here's the things I did to make the whole process easier.

1. Removed Steering wheel.
2. Removed driver's seat.
3. Removed the foot stop and pulled back carpet underneath the pedals.
4. Removed the bottom of the dash board where the footwell light is.
5. Removed the Clutch Pedal Switch A

After doing all of this, I was able to get a wrench up to loosen Locknut C. However, the push rod would not turn with just my fingers, so using some needle-nose vise grips, I was able to turn it in. I did not clamp the pliers on the rod, but rather adjusted the pliers so the tips were just big enough to go around the rod when closed. I then closed the visegrip before I put my hand up there, and slid the pliers over the rod so that they would barely grip the rod but with enough pressure to let me turn it. I could only turn the rod about 1/4 rotation per time, so it took quite a few mini-turns to do it. However, I managed to get it adjusted as much as possible.

Afterwards, I started the car BEFORE putting everything back in, and sat on the floorboard and listened/felt the clutch engage and disengage to make sure it was completing the process. It felt safe, so I put the seat back in and went for a drive. It is engaging much lower, so it's better. I wish I could have gotten another couple of centimeters out of it, but the rod would not turn anymore, even though there was a couple of thread left. It felt like it had reached it maximum inside of the clutch master cylinder. A full strong highway pulls in boost confirmed it was fully disengaging and re-engaging without any slippage or clutch burning smell.

 

[FF Drifter]

Glad you got it adjusted; sounds like a pain in the ass.

Unfortunately it'll probably be at least a year before another trip to Honolulu. We were on Big Island several weeks ago for a few days. Man, it's never long enough haha