clutch master/slave questions

Joined
10 June 2004
Messages
155
Location
So. O.C. California
I'm having shifting problems right now on my '91 w/66,000 miles and second OEM clutch(less then 10,000 on it) It's really hard to get into first lately and I've had a few "grinds" while shifting.
I think I need a new clutch master, it looks like it has been weeping.(it's not wet...but I can see where it has weeped around the boot in the footwell)
Is it common for this to go out @ this age/mileage?
Should I replace the slave too?

I'm hoping that this is the case with my car...I don't want to think about having to replace the clutch after only 10,000 miles or so.

Thanks.
 
If the master is leaking, this surely can cause shifting problems. You should go ahead and replace the master and slave at the same time.

My slave was leaking last year and I have a 97'.

good luck
 
digimanoc said:
I'm having shifting problems right now on my '91 w/66,000 miles and second OEM clutch(less then 10,000 on it) It's really hard to get into first lately and I've had a few "grinds" while shifting.
I think I need a new clutch master, it looks like it has been weeping.(it's not wet...but I can see where it has weeped around the boot in the footwell)
Is it common for this to go out @ this age/mileage?
Should I replace the slave too?

I'm hoping that this is the case with my car...I don't want to think about having to replace the clutch after only 10,000 miles or so.

Thanks.


I replaced my weeping master & slave this year at around 45k. Its an easy DIY, but I do them both at the same time with a speedbleeder.
 
Clutch Slave = (1) SB8125
Brakes = (4) SB10125
Website HERE

Total including shipping for all 4 calipers and the clutch slave is less than $40.

P.S. there is an excellent DIY writeup HERE
 
UPDATE:


Thanks to everyone for the replies.

I changed out the master and the slave...all seems well again.

Some things I did that seemed to work well.....
Master cylinder--YOU MUST TAKE OUT THE SEAT! I don't know how you'd do it anyother way.
Also...leave the hard line and the reservoir attached to the master and pull it out as one unit. Then you can use it as a template to reattach the items to the new master and put it all back in as one unit. It was easier to also take the criuse control out of the way. total time= 1 1/4 hours

Slave cylinder---I took out the shifter cables and covers to make it easier. I can see how some people complained about putting in a new slave and how difficult it is to compress the rod and get the two bolts back it.
What I did was to use the plug that came with the slave that covered the hole for the hose as a way to trap a vaccum in the unit . I took out the plug, compressed the rod all the way in and then replaced the plug which sealed it well enough to hold the rod in the compressed position. Once I had the bolts back in, I took out the plug and it was perfectly lined up.

To me the hardest part was bleeding the system. Tiny litle reservior...long lines.

Thanks again to all the folks that hepled with links and info.
 
I just replaced my slave, the master isn't showing any signs of leaking yet. After replacing the slave, I developed a leak in the flex hose leading to the slave. It might be a good idea to replace the hose while you have access to it.

I also found gravity bleeding helps speed up the process, the second time around it only took a few mins to re-bleed the lines.

Thanks,
 
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