Clutch hydraulics

[T Bolen]

Well my clutch just went south this AM - bummer as I had the car loaded ready to drive to work for it's once a week trip to to office.
I'm pretty sure that it just needs a refresh of the hydraulics - symptons are: clutch friction point almost at the floor and no fluid in the master cylinder. Seems about right as it is a '95 with 54K miles.
Questions:
I assume it would be prudent to replace both the slave and master as they wear out in tandem. That is my plan.
Are these rebuildable? Wondering if there is a kit with new seals or do I just buy new cylinders.
Also - isn't there a flex line to the slave cylinder? Shouldn't this be replaced now as well?
Lastly - any idea of costs for the above parts?
As always, appreciate help from all.

 

[D'Ecosse]

They are not rebuildable - no-one seems to do that anymore, parts are becoming more just throw-aways.
Cost for both was $170 (collectively) from Niello with 30% NSXCA discount - I just ordered something from Tim Poliniak at Ray Laks Acura/Honda at www.hondacuraworld.com - prices are competitive, no sales tax (for me in CA anyway) and only $4 handling. I effectively saved sales tax & shipping. Only downside, on my part from Laks, 10 days for to it to come in then a week to ship ground across country - I was in no hurry however so no big deal, thought I'd try them.
I did not replace the hose - its obviously not as critical a safety component as a brake hose (IMO) so its probably a call based on condition. Purists might take the opportunity to replace it also.
Job is pretty straight forward - remove the drivers seat before doing the master, save yourself a lot of hassle! When installing the master, hook up the hydrualic lines before tightening up the mounting of the cylinder & it will be much easier to get them started - there's not much give on those short lines in that cramped space. When bleeding, unless you have a power-bleeder (pressure or vacuum) you will need to work the pedal & unlike the brakes, the pedal won't return, so you have to manually lift it by hand (or it will stay on the floor) If you have no power bleeder options, get a speed-bleeder nipple & install that to make it a simple one-man bleeding operation. I had a little problem getting the assist spring on the pedal hooked up properly so make sure that is seated as it should

 

[T Bolen]

Thanks D'Ecosse! I've done many a job on my British cars over the years - figured the NSX can't be too difficult.
Appreciate the reply.

 

[D'Ecosse]

Also, Part#'s -
Master: 46920-SL0-A01
Slave: 46930-SL0-003

 

[T Bolen]

Went down to my local dealer at lunch to order - I get a 15% discount and that is OK to keep the business local. The hose is kinda expensive - over $60! I'm re-using my old one this time!

 

[sjs]

Did you actually identify a leak, or are you just assuming that one or the other must have failed since it was out of fluid?

 

[Autophile]

Try adding some fluid in your master cylinder and then pump the pedal a dozen or so times. The pedal release point should come right back up and return to normal operation. The symptoms you described happened to me as well a few months back. I added some fluid, and voila! Back to normal. It will at least let you drive around until you get the parts replaced.

 

[T Bolen]

Did you actually identify a leak, or are you just assuming that one or the other must have failed since it was out of fluid?

I've assumed it at this point - the car is almost 9 years old, and hydraulic fluid doesn't evaporate. For just a little over $200 I will feel better replacing them.
They will come in on Tuesday - this will be next weekend's project.