CLUTCH enigma

[NSXDDS]

i've got a real annoying problem

i have a 91 45k miles on it. when i depress the clutch it sticks on release. it fully engages and disengages but u can feel the resistance as you get close to fully depressing it and upon release it sticks and fully disengages.

strange thing is, in the morning when i'm driving it has no problems, but as i drive it more it has the symptoms, making driving very unenjoyable.

checked around the pedal and depressed it with hand, all i can hear is the spring creaking at the point of stickyness or resistance. no fluid in area the rod is dry, can't figure this out. i think it's a hydraulic problem, but not sure.

if anyone can help i'd greatly appreciate it.

 

[ScienceofSpeed]

Are the noises the same or different with the engine off and engine running?

Cheers,
-- Chris

 

[NSXDDS]

yes same w/ engine on and off.. but again it only happens after some driving. i think the sound from the spring is just a sequalae of the clutch sticking.

 

[Hiroshima]

I had this problem. Your clutch fork is dry and the pivot point of the fork is grinding. I would say this is the fault of the clutch installer but the guy who did it to mine is the highest regarded NSX tech in the area: Bruce Pettit. So it just may be a time/wear issue.

I originally thought it was the slave cylinder. It was not so don't bother taking it apart. It is fine.

I fixed it by doing the following:

Went down to my friend's shop where he had a lift. We removed the slave cylinder and the boot that fits onto the tranny case. He then sprayed Wurth Heavy Duty lubricating Spray on the clutch fork being careful not to get it on the clutch fingers or surface.

It took a while to even get the can in the right position to spray the goop. At any rate that was 3- 6k ago and it is starting to get worse again. Not bad. Just worse. I kind kind-of feel it if I REALLY pay attention, but in normal driving I can't tell. Short of doing this, I think you have to drop the tranny. I have heard of people removing the fork but if you drop it in the tranny,.... well that would suck. I was not confident I could take it out, much less put it back in.

It actually happened when I was stuck 2 hours of rush hour (big accident) and was on and off the clutch for the entire time.

HTH

Jeff

 

[NSXDDS]

thanks for the input,

i was wondering what you meant by "dropping the tranny", i'm assuming your doing this to get to the fork and lubing it properly. i'm curious did you ever resolve it in your car. i'm willing to do anything to get it fixed, whatever it takes. i'll probably take it back to mark basch and have him take a look at it, he recently did my 60k service, but didn't have time to tackle this problem.

 

[Hiroshima]

thanks for the input,

i was wondering what you meant by "dropping the tranny", i'm assuming your doing this to get to the fork and lubing it properly. i'm curious did you ever resolve it in your car. i'm willing to do anything to get it fixed, whatever it takes. i'll probably take it back to mark basch and have him take a look at it, he recently did my 60k service, but didn't have time to tackle this problem.

Mark is of course a better judge than I but, I did not think there was a way to get to the clutch fork unless you cracked open the tranny case. The clutch folk hole in the side of the tranny is big enough to get a child's hand in but maybe not out

If the problem only occured when the car was not running I would say the throwout bearing is chaffing against the shaft it rides on (I can't remember what it is called) but since it happens all the time I really think it is the fork pivot. You symptoms sound EXACTLY like mine. See if Mark B can shoot some goop onto the fork pivot. But when you get it fixed PLEASE post what the fix is.

Good Luck

 

[Gerard van Santen]

i've got a real annoying problem

i have a 91 45k miles on it. when i depress the clutch it sticks on release. it fully engages and disengages but u can feel the resistance as you get close to fully depressing it and upon release it sticks and fully disengages.

I had the same problem. I don't want to make you worry more than you are now, but the cause in my case was a damper spring that was broken out of one of my friction plates.

 

[NSXDDS]

did you fix it yourself by replacing spring? or did you have someone do it for you?

and has the problem been permanently fixed?

btw, how much was the cost?

thanks

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Gerard is telling you that you need a clutch. I would agree based on the symptom, Mark will tell you for sure.

I would figure around $1500-2000.

I hope we are wrong

LarryB

 

[Gerard van Santen]

did you fix it yourself by replacing spring? or did you have someone do it for you?

and has the problem been permanently fixed?

btw, how much was the cost?

thanks

Replacing the spring isn't a option. If it's true what I'm thinking, it will cost you a new clutch (as LarryB mentioned).

I have had this problem twice with a Centerforce clutch. The first time the clutch looked like a mess but I could fix it and I only had to change the friction plates. That costed me only $ 325 for the plates. I installed the clutch with the help of a friend of mine.

The second time it happened I decided to change the clutch for a more robust clutch. So I have installed a twin plate Exedy clutch. Bought from Dali Racing. It costed me 1.5k.

I think the way the damper springs are situated in the OEM (or ACT or Centerforce and perhaps others...) friction plates is not good enough for a sportscar like the NSX. Certainly not for a car that has a compressor or a turbo. I have seen friction plates from cars with a lot of less torque and HP that looked better equiped for power than the NSX plates.

Good luck,
Gerard