Check your NSX CV boots!

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30 April 2002
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Hi all,

After an oil change about 6 months ago, I noticed grease from the inner CV Joint on the passenger side. The boot was not torn or otherwise damaged. The grease was leaking out of the larger boot end. After some reading here at NSXPrime, it seemed that my car's problem was a common event and that the boot/grease would have to be replaced.

I ordered a set of CV boots. Shortly after I ordered the boots, the NSX Driver issue of replacing the CV boots arrived in the mail. Perfect timing!

I finished replacing the boots and grease yesterday and I'd like to post a couple of comments about the task.

1. I was surprised at the lack of grease remaining in the leaking boot. The amount was less than half of what should have been there. The CV Joints were still plenty lubricated, but who knows how long before the grease totally disappeared! My advice to you is if your CV boots are slinging grease, have them and the grease replaced as soon as possible! I have a '94 with just 39k miles.

2. Larry Bastanza's write up on changing the CV Boots was right on. Thank you Larry. Your suggestions on removing the CV Joints from the intermediate shaft were excellent. I used the two pry bar method and, after a few tries, the joint separated.

3. Removing the axel nut was no problem other than trying to find a 36mm socket in the little town I live near. Instead of using a air wrench, I used a breaker-bar with a 3 foot cheater bar. I had my spouse hold the brake down hard while I used the setup to break loose the nut. The nut was loose in 2 seconds. Piece of cake!

4. I purchased the banding tool to lock the boots in place. The tool, used as directed, broke the first band. According to the instructions (in the manual), the band is to be placed on the boot (rapped twice), then pulled (tightened) by hand. Then, as you are holding the band, make a mark 10-14mm from the clip, then using the special tool, pull the band tight to where the mark meets the clip. Well, I never got anywhere near the mark before the band broke. Lesson learned on the other bands....pull snug with the tool, the secure according to the instructions.

If you decide to do the job yourself, just follow Larry's instructions and you can't go wrong. I took my time and the total time spent was about 7 hours (that time includes placing the car on jack stands). Most of that was spent removing the old grease. Good luck and have fun!
 
I've notice the grease slung around on my NSX since last oil change.. Haven't sweat it yet but during my clutch install I will do the boot as well. So I guess if the boot ain't broken don't replace it right? Just a tighter band and more grease you do.
 
OEM grease.
afterburners said:
I've notice the grease slung around on my NSX since last oil change.. Haven't sweat it yet but during my clutch install I will do the boot as well. So I guess if the boot ain't broken don't replace it right? Just a tighter band and more grease you do.
 
afterburners said:
I've notice the grease slung around on my NSX since last oil change.. Haven't sweat it yet but during my clutch install I will do the boot as well. So I guess if the boot ain't broken don't replace it right? Just a tighter band and more grease you do.


There is no way I would reuse the boot. Buy two and do both. They get old, stiff and dry with age. It is just not worth the labor, if you have to do it again. The boot kits are about $20 each as discount sources.

If your clutch install is being done soon then wait, but if it will be awhile, I would do the CV boot soon. Price a CV joint and it is obvious why:).

HTH,
LarryB
 
I Grok NSX said:
4. I purchased the banding tool to lock the boots in place. The tool, used as directed, broke the first band. According to the instructions (in the manual), the band is to be placed on the boot (rapped twice), then pulled (tightened) by hand. Then, as you are holding the band, make a mark 10-14mm from the clip, then using the special tool, pull the band tight to where the mark meets the clip. Well, I never got anywhere near the mark before the band broke. Lesson learned on the other bands....pull snug with the tool, the secure according to the instructions.

The first step is to just get the band slack out, then pull it in 10-14mm to seal it up good. Obviously you learned that now:). Glad the write up helped.


HTH,
LarryB
 
The first step is to just get the band slack out, then pull it in 10-14mm to seal it up good. Obviously you learned that now:). Glad the write up helped.

I learned something else after breaking 2 bands (both after getting only about probably 3mm of it pulled in after taking out the slack). I was holding the tool at a tangent to the loop made by the band, thinking that the straighter the pull on the band (i.e. 0-degrees) the better. Problem with that is the band tool is a bit thick at the nose (IMO) so it makes the band do a "Z" (an "L" where it comes out of the clip and an "L" the other direction where it enters the nose of the tool). That puts a lot of stress on the band it wouldn't have if it were being pulled in more of a straight line...and it breaks prematurely.

Changing methodology to holding the tool at a 45-degree angle to the band, while counter-intuitive to me at first, works better...as it only makes the band do one "L" bend (and at a more-obtuse angle, which is good). I had 4 successful 10-14mm pulls after making that adjustment (and assume I will have 4 more tomorrow when I do the other side).

Other than that frustration with the tool/TSB (neither of which are Larry's creations) I found the write-up very helpful (wedge and one pry bar method worked well).
 
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Can someone scan and post this? :)

Until they run out of stock you can purchase past issues of NSX Driver from the NSXCA (I would try the "merchandise coordinator"). If nobody posts the issue information by tonight I'll edit my post to include such so you know what issue to order.
 
I noticed when putting everything back together (passenger side) that I never removed the bolt on the tie rod. Would explain the effort necessary to get the inner CV completely off the intermediate shaft (have to fully compress spring in outer joint as the hub doesn't move as far out with tie-rod still connected to car)...but I did want to note that it's possible skipping that step.
 
Can Larry or anyone else confirm that these are the part numbers for the exact same boot bands that come in the kit (i.e. not the old ones that wrap only once)? I need replacements for the ones I broke before I can do the other shaft...and since I now know how to use the new ones I'd like to stick with them.

44328-SL0-300 (large band)
44329-SL0-300 (small band)

Also, anyone know if/which other Honda/Acura vehicles' boot kits use these same bands? I was under the impression that Honda had switched to these two being standard across vehicles, instead of the old single-wrap ones that were vehicle-specific...and specific side-to-side (so, like the NSX would have 4 or 8 different bands) according to a local Honda parts guy who thinks such are still in use as replacement and not superseded. Thanks.
 
I is quite simple to do once you have the cv joint out of the bulkhead.

It is easier to do in the middle of a clutch install because you have the rear control arms all folded out and out of the way.

It is definitely not worth waiting to do. Because 20 bucks is a lot cheaper than a new driveshaft.

The only real headache you may encounter is when you are putting the 3 joints on the dogbones back into the cup. You have to pull them away fron the round end of the driveshaft so that they perfectly match up with the slots in the cup.

Also use as much of the mustard as you can in filling the boot/cup
 
The inner passenger side CV boot on my 1991 with 120K miles was leaking grease badly. I inspected the boot and it was fine and the rubber was still pliable (probably due to the grease all over it). The OEM bands are easily reused and reinstalled if removed carefully. I cleaned the old grease out and repacked the original boot with CV grease and reused the band. After a couple of track sessions and normal daily driving the boot is not leaking. Total out-of-pocket = cost of the grease. Easy DIY!

My drivers side axle I had to replace because the bearings in the CV were shreded. I sourced it from O'reily Auto Parts for $80.
 
is there a DIY out there?
You're looking for:
NSX Driver Magazine, Issue 01 of 2006, titled "Special DIY Issue"

NSX Driver is the (quarterly?) magazine of the NSXCA. In the past they've allowed people to order back issues. Not sure where things stand now. Best would be to just ask them. Probably involves sending some fee via check or PayPal to [email protected].

Other DIY articles in this issue are installation of a PowerGrip clutch, JDM/Euro OEM fog light installation, and second half of 3.8L SOS engine assembly (not exactly a DIY, but it is in that section).
 
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