Changing motor mounts

To really answer this we need to know which one. Front or Rear?

Quick answer is rear is easiest, front means removing the "Front Beam", more work.....

HTH,
LarryB
 
I changed out all three in my garage with the car on jack stands. The rear and side mounts are easy. The front is a bit harder, but not horrible. I think there is a "how to" on here somewhere. Just do one at a time and remember where all the bolts go.
 
Greg, I had my motor mounts changed by Fremont Acura.

Ask for Justin Wynn - he is a service manager with a Turbo'd NSX - so he cares and knows our cars. Not just some kid with a Auto FWD Honda that thinks he/she knows wassup.

I upgraded the front and rear (even though none were broken) to: http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/engine_performance_products/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/engine_mounts/

The power delivery felt more immediate if that makes any sense.

Nothing noticeable on engine vibration (of course my engine is blueprinted and balanced to less than a gram of tolerance).
 
Thanks Guys! It's the front mount. Any links to 'how to'?

Front engine mount was found broken after complete inspection by Don at Hilltop in San Francisco. The oem part is hard to find but you can get one from SOS. I recommend talking to Don to give you an idea what you are dealing with. He walked me throw disassembling my center console although it was apparently easy to do it had its little tricks.
Good luck !!!
 
I am in the process of changing my mounts out for no other reason than I have everything torn down to put in a baffled oil pan. getting to the point of changing out the oil pan is no easy feat when you are working with the car jacked about 15 inches and laying on your back; but once the beam support and headers are removed its a piece of cake. I don't know the benefit, but I am going with the Science of Speed swap outs.

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He walked me throw disassembling my center console although it was apparently easy to do it had its little tricks.
Good luck !!!

I'm looking to do a big upgrade to my radio; what kind of "tricks" are there for removing the center console?
 
I am in the process of changing my mounts out for no other reason than I have everything torn down to put in a baffled oil pan. getting to the point of changing out the oil pan is no easy feat when you are working with the car jacked about 15 inches and laying on your back; but once the beam support and headers are removed its a piece of cake. I don't know the benefit, but I am going with the Science of Speed swap outs.

Console is super easy. Tricks are just go slow, don't apply pressure to plastic parts if they don't move immediately otherwise you will be calling Shawn and sending him $150 for a part that fits in your palm. But I digress. (That's not a shot at Shawn, just letting you know that parts are brittle and expensive.)

If you want a quick step by step, you are essentially removing roughly six small screws and lifting up and out the console face. The screws are under the armrest, behind the lighter/ashtray, near the upper vents. Once you get started you will see it is pretty easy. Again, there is a writeup on Wiki I think. Go there and look at the photos.

When you are done with the radio, send it my way. I will buy it.

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I'm looking to do a big upgrade to my radio; what kind of "tricks" are there for removing the center console?

See above.
 
A starter reference for front engine mount removal is a few steps ( ..32, 33, 34..) from section 5, Engine Removal, in the shop manual. Or, you can dig through the transmission removal section and glean the same information.

If I remember correctly from doing my clutch last year, despite what the manual says - and from Larry B's advice, remove the cross bolt in the mount first, then lower the beam and remove the two halves of the mount. Its nearly impossible to remove the bolts from the engine & transmission with the beam in place. Unless, of course, you enjoy backing out those 3 bolts about 1/64th of a turn a time. I use a torque wrench on everything; but at the very least use a torque wrench when installing the mount bolts into the engine and trans - you don't want to strip threads in aluminum!
 
I had to remove the front beam to replace the AC compressor. What I recall learning from that experience was with the car on jack stands the front beam is put into tension ( stands to reason it's there for a purpose). Being in tension makes removal or install near impossible without stripping threads. To counter act that I used a come along strap to pull the left and right frame together (function as the beam) and remove the tension on the front beam. Then it dropped & installed with ease.
 
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