Changing coolant ? Any hints for DIYer ?

Modernceo · 18 March 2005

Changing coolant ? Any hints for DIYer ?

Ive drained and replaced coolant in several of my other vehicles, and for the most part it was very straighforward. In some posts on Nsxprime ive read about several bleed valves that need to be opened in order to swap the coolant, and overall it seemed really complicated.

Does anyone have any advice on replacing the coolant ? Any DIYer pages out there on this topic ?

Fwiw, ill be using the official Honda coolant, no worries guys.

Modernceo · 18 March 2005

Fyi, ive seen this post in the diy section, its where ive read about all the bleeder valves, just wanted to see if anyone had any additional tips..

http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/DIY/coolant.htm

Briank · 18 March 2005

That’s a good write up. The only suggestion I can make is take your time when refilling will seem to take forever to come out the bleeder on the top of the radiator.

NSX 3.0 · 18 March 2005

Modernceo, Here are the back two bleeders the one under the T-body is the only hard one to get at just to the left firewall side. I had a nightmare getting the air out of my system after the flush. My tech said to jack the car up in the rear and let it cool down first then go to each bleeder and burp it until you see coolant spit out. Then go to the next valve and do the same until all air is out good luck.

NSX 3.0 · 18 March 2005

Front two.

Larry Bastanza · 18 March 2005

You have gotten great advice. First thing to do is run the car WITH THE HEATER ON, AND LEAVE IT ON when you shut the car off. Notice the position of the water valve is Steve's pic above. That is where is should be.

Get the car rear fenders about chest high(well chest high for me, maybe lower for you

). I typically have the car on stands, then remove the front stands and lower the front until the car just sits on the drain pan under the radiator. Bleed sequence if the car is positioned this way is radiator, heater core, firewall bleeder, thermostat bleeder(the one burried in the pic above).

If you want to be nice and neat about it, go to Home Depot and get a few feet of clear tubing and fit in onto the (2) bleeder valves in the engine bay and into a holding bottle. When you see solid blue(yes the newer Type II fluid is blue) fluid tighen the valve, then pinch the hose and remove it. I used to just let it run, then hose the engine bay down, but this way is a little neater, especially in the winter in the East, when I cannot hose it down in the driveway. It takes a little longer though.

Once complete fill the coolant reservoir to the max line. Clean up, take the car out watching the gauge. Once up the temp, run the heater full for a few munites, return to the garage, get 1 beer. Once the beer is gone, and the car is cool check the coolant bottle and add probably one more quart. Have another beer, call it good

.

And NO, I do not do the beer thing when working on customers cars, for all you wise guys out there :biggrin:

Remember to get at least 4 gallons, if you are doing a complete drain including heads/block. If you replaced the water hoses you will use more then the 12.3 qts they mention in the service manual.

HTH,
LarryB

Modernceo · 18 March 2005

Steven, Larry, thank you both for your input and advice. Steven, thanks for those awesome pictures ! Did you take those for just this post, or did you happen to have them in a file somewhere ? Either way thanks !!

hlweyl · 18 March 2005

Also recommend using the premix Honda 50/50 coolant rather than mixing yourself.

drew · 18 March 2005

There are crush washers to be replaced too - 2x (4x?) on the bottom. I believe the engine block has some (seal or washer) that recommends replacement.

The pointy rubber caps are known as "vacuum caps", available at any autoparts place.

And I strongly suggest that you replace the o-rings on the radiator plugs...very strongly.

Drew

NSX 3.0 · 18 March 2005

Modernceo said:
Steven, Larry, thank you both for your input and advice. Steven, thanks for those awesome pictures ! Did you take those for just this post, or did you happen to have them in a file somewhere ? Either way thanks !!

Took them just for you Cory... :biggrin:

myf16 · 14 July 2005

I like to park the car facing downhill on a fairly steep slope (driveway). Then when you fill at the rear, there will be little or no trapped air in front.

chumch · 14 July 2005

Last Fall i recieved a coupon book from my Acura dealer...one of the coupons was for a Flush and Fill Coolant for $50. That was a steal.

khappucino · 8 October 2005

hey guys,

so i got the car up finally, still waiting for Dos Amigos, anyhow I started draining the system, and guess what... the GD fluid is teh Green.... i have 4 gallons of Honda Type 2 Blue fluid for the refill. After flushing the original green fluids should i fill the system with distilled water... bleed, run engine, drain.... THEN refill with the hot new Blue Type 2 fluid, bleed, run engine, fill, bleed again?

I was curious since i have different coolant that i recently flushed from the system.

Also i'm having one hell of a time getting to the Front Engine drain bolt near the exhaust flange... holy crap its really up there, any suggestions other than a really long extender on my socket wrench... also when it comes time to Torque that bolt back into place, it doesnt seem like there is any other way to get to it then putting a big socket extender onto a torque wrench??

53heloFE · 8 October 2005

khappucino said:
... also when it comes time to Torque that bolt back into place, it doesnt seem like there is any other way to get to it then putting a big socket extender onto a torque wrench??

German torque...good-n-tight :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

J/K I have no idea, but I will be replacing all of my hoses, and thermostat when I do the timing belt and water pump in a few weeks. I have green fluid in it now and am curious as to the reply to the rest of your question as I have the one.

drew · 8 October 2005

Just use a long extension with a deep 14mm socket. It is an obtuse entry, so any torque wrenches would be about useless.

Just tighten it up. If it drips, tighten a little more. Pretty easy to progressively check....

If you must rinse the system: I would not use distilled water--that is hungry water--just use regular water and go from there.

Drew

khappucino · 9 October 2005

drew said:
Just use a long extension with a deep 14mm socket. It is an obtuse entry, so any torque wrenches would be about useless.

Just tighten it up. If it drips, tighten a little more. Pretty easy to progressively check....

If you must rinse the system: I would not use distilled water--that is hungry water--just use regular water and go from there.

Drew

what is hungry water??

drew · 9 October 2005

Distilled water is a no-no in your NSX. Just because it is more expensive, does not mean it is better.

It is devoid of minerals and oxygen and will fill that need by stripping your car for its metal.

Just use regular water out of the hose for best results.

In fact, you can just pull the upper radiator hose from the radiator, insert garden hose in to radiator and run car until the water is clear. Drain the system, seal it back up and put +4 gallons of Type II back in.

Drew

khappucino · 13 October 2005

hahahahah so i took my Dos Amigos off... lol.... holy crap it felt like godzilla put those damn things on.... now here is my question..... is there an easieR way to put them back on... i have the inner big fat one on about 80% but holy crap its hard as hell.... any semi-finesse methods ????

well other than hella amounts of Silicon Spray and a heat gun that is

Larry Bastanza · 14 October 2005

You should coat the inside of the hoses with silicone lube, they will slid on easily. I use "Jacks" O-ring lube, found in any swimming pool store. DO NOT use a petroleum based lube, it eats the hoses over time.

HTH,
LarryB

khappucino · 14 October 2005

bwuahahahahahah (thanks larry)

ok so i got those hoses back on, filled and bled the system, no burnination,
warmed the car up took it for a spin, good solid temperature in mid range,
checked fluid reservoir after little drive, still OK.

now i have a quick question, i never noticed before but, what is normal for oil pressure at idle?

right now at idle i'm at about 2 kg/cm then at throttle it stays solid at 6-7 kg/cm, i'm a tad low on oil and i'm changing my oil tommorrow probably.

what is normal idle oil pressure, will the oil level affect the oil pressure etc?

thanks alot

-david

update!

ok so i did a search :biggrin: and i guess 2 at idle when warm and 6 until 6krpm is normal... very good!!!

bwuhahahahaha! i'm pretty surprised my car didnt blow up after i did my own hose install and flush :biggrin: thank the car gods for nsxprime and you helpful people

Changing coolant ? Any hints for DIYer ?

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