Car won’t crank, beeping when put on run. 95’ NSX-T

[nfaiz]

Parked my car but wanted to correct my parking so I tried to crank it again. Would not crank, I can hear the fuel pump prime and I checked all the fuses and nothing was blown. Any ideas?

 

[nfaiz]

Also wanted to add the check engine is from the rear secondary o2 sensor

 

[Old Guy]

The .mov file would not open for me.

My two favorite picks for a no crank scenario are
- the ignition switch has expired
- the clutch interlock button has fallen out

Watching what is happening with the dash indicator lights can indicate whether the ignition switch has failed. The definitive test is the dive under the dash and check the operation of the switch as described in the service manual.

The clutch interlock button tell tale is two or three little pieces of broken plastic in the driver's side footwell.

The security system can block cranking if it remains armed or if it has failed. There is a reminder beeper if you leave the key in the ignition switch in the 0 or 1 position and open the driver side door. Is that what you are hearing? If it is beeping with the door open and key in the run position that could be a sign that the ignition switch has failed. If it beeping with the door closed - that is unusual. The Integrated Control Unit controls the beeping and is tied into the security system so you might have multiple issues. would need osme additional details to sort that one out.

 

[nfaiz]

The .mov file would not open for me.

My two favorite picks for a no crank scenario are
- the ignition switch has expired
- the clutch interlock button has fallen out

Watching what is happening with the dash indicator lights can indicate whether the ignition switch has failed. The definitive test is the dive under the dash and check the operation of the switch as described in the service manual.

The clutch interlock button tell tale is two or three little pieces of broken plastic in the driver's side footwell.

The security system can block cranking if it remains armed or if it has failed. There is a reminder beeper if you leave the key in the ignition switch in the 0 or 1 position and open the driver side door. Is that what you are hearing? If it is beeping with the door open and key in the run position that could be a sign that the ignition switch has failed. If it beeping with the door closed - that is unusual. The Integrated Control Unit controls the beeping and is tied into the security system so you might have multiple issues. would need osme additional details to sort that one out.

I think it might be the security system. When I have the door open the door beeps then I closed it and it stopped beeping. Then I turned the key to run and it started beeping. I will check for the broken plastic in the footwell soon and the ignition switch tomorrow morning.

Attached the video in mp4 form.

 

[Old Guy]

When I have the door open the door beeps then I closed it and it stopped beeping. Then I turned the key to run and it started beeping.

If the key is in the ignition when you open the door that beeping would be normal. The chime also goes off as a seat belt reminder when you key on. If you didn't have your belt done up that beeping right at the start would be normal - unless it was beeping continuously. A continuous beeping problem would be related to the integrated control unit or the switch inputs. The integrated control unit does not control the security system; but, both get key in indications. The key in indications come from what the service manual calls an 'ignition switch'; but, it is a different switch than the one that switches vehicle power on and off so this might be a red herring.

Given that your car is close to 30 years old, it is also possible that your starter motor just took a dump. Batteries that are getting old (and bad battery post terminals connections) are also noted for suffering from 'here now - gone the next minute'. If you have access to a remote starter switch

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3630-Remote-Starter-Switch/dp/B000EVU8MK/ref=sr_1_3?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.K0h-sJoT4QywyjnNKgG3XvXr02HynXQFH41WClDDfhE8qLtlDjlav19ktvVflauxzNjWavQ60_cQf8l9PRgYFMV3wK70nd3WvdNAV01efU51NqWDMKJy0NJcTdblKTVRfukZVHWlxU0UTutyi-xknkfV8kKxegRcHBaDt308_WRI6RYCI5Sv_EAbuleveqHpcPK6dmxUOZ1iwXJOAnAPosZhoNzomHF5_JK44GkSHoM.avB23HH96aEqi8HrmFL_QzJDPE-DcaX4rSr2CxzjqwA&dib_tag=se&keywords=remote+starter+switch&qid=1714226824&sr=8-3

you can use it to bypass all the interlocks and the security system in the starter motor system. Connecting it between the jump start terminal and the starter motor solenoid terminal will force the starter motor to crank if the battery and its terminals are OK. Don't do this with the key in the run position because the motor will start unless that is your intent - I keep a 2m long chunk of wire in the trunk for just this purpose in case my interlock button drops out when I am at the grocery store. If the starter motor turns with the remote starter switch then the starter motor and battery are good and your problem is in the starter motor system
- ignition switch
- clutch interlock switch / button
- starter cut relay
- security control unit
- a broken connection anywhere in that system

As I noted in my previous post, the first two causes are the 'top two' by a huge margin.

 

[docjohn]

my ig switch on my 96 got epilepsy last year...new switch smooth running