can get exhaust bolts off!

dawggpie

dawggpie

Experienced Member
Joined
4 May 2003
Messages
341
can't get exhaust bolts off!

I'm trying to install my Taitec GT exhaust, but can't get the bolts off the exhaust for the life of me. I tried spraying WD40 on them.... i know i know... i need to get some liquid wrench, WD40 is pretty useless when it comes to this. The bolts are really rusted. I believe the previous exhaust was only installed about 4000k miles ago. Is that much rusting normal? I'm thinking some cheap bolts were used to replace the original ones. Can anyone provide me with the specs for the nuts and bolts used? I think i might pick up some replacements just in case some of them break off. Thanks.
 
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My '93 has nuts holding the headers on to studs coming off the heads. Kroil is a good brand of penetrating oil I have had good luck using. Make sure you are using a 6 point socket and try using an impact driver to break them loose. When you put them back on coat them with anti-seize compound, I like the copper color stuff. Good luck.
 
I had to break off 3 bolts on there when I put my exhaust on. I just picked up some nuts and bolts at Autozone and put them on. No Problem.
 
thanks for the tips.
I made the mistake of not using a 6 point socket already unfortunately. Looks like I'll have to cut one of them off.

It is possible to find stainless steel nuts anywhere? I was looking at the bolts and nuts on the suspension components and there wasn't a spot of rust on any of them. Are the bolts also aluminum?
 
The bolts you refer to on the suspension have a Darco coating. I think they are steel, but the coating allows mating with Aluminum and eliminates issues like eletrolysis with dissimilar metals.

Yes a 12 point is surely a no-no. I would get a good assortment of sockets (6 point) INCLUDING inch sizes. Find a size you can bang on, like it will never come off:).

Also get PBBlaster, it smells bad, but works the best IMO (never tried the Kroils though). Soak well, and then turn them off with the tight fitting socket. If all else fails you have two options: Dremel tool to cut the nut like a "C", then chisel it off, (sharp chisel turning in the direction of tighening) or get a torch, and get them babies cherry hot, then turn them off. If you are not experienced with a torch, get a friend who is (not too friendly near aluminum:))

HTH,
LarryB
 
Larry Bastanza said:
Also get PBBlaster, it smells bad, but works the best IMO .....
Click to expand...
Oh yeah, Baby
biggthum.gif

Definitely the right stuff!
 
I had the same problem a couple of months ago. Do not cut them off!!! Go to sears and buy a set of "Bolt Outs". They cost 59.95. The are an oversize socket (7 sizes) that are swirled shaped and tapered. I put these on the end of my impact and whamo, 3 seconds later it was off. The rest of the bolts I was worried about stripping I did not even waste my time with a socket, I just hit all of them with the bolt out socket. It will ruin your nuts, but you are probably replacing them anyway. Go to SEARS!!! By the way, one of the bolts was completely rounded off, I had hit it with the impact and thought it was coming out when I realized it was stripping the head off....I can't say enough about this product!
 
Go to a specialty fastener store and get stainless steel lock nuts when you put them back on. Get the all metal ones because the ny-lock style with the plastic will melt over time, and get the anti-seize at the same time.

Follow Steve's advise and head to Sears, sounds like a great tool to have in your tool box. Pick up those 6 point sockets while you are there:).
 
I've never used the pbblaster but I have used heat. Heat that baby up red hot and give it a good whack with a hammer and you should be able to get it out.

Good luck
 
Heat has worked for me most of the time, but I have had the studs in the converter twist off. Not a big deal because they are replaceable 18176-P08-003. You do need a good selection of 6 point sockets, Metric and SAE so you can find one that fits the nut hammer on tight. Hammering a socket on a heated bolt is not good for the sockets so use Sears Craftsman so you can just return any you damage. The nuts are also a smaller hex then what is standard for that bolt size. You can find nuts at a hardware store but they will be a larger hex. They will work but you may have socket clearance problems. I ordered some of the right size nuts from Bowmann our nut and bolt supplier at work. The hot setup in exhaust bolts is Stainless with brass nuts, no rust and easy to get off but good luck finding metric brass nuts.
 
On the Lotus I use stainless steel studs with brass nuts. I will never use anything else on a exhaust manifold connection that I think may need to come apart again. Metric brass nuts are available at McMaster Carr.
 
Plumber's Propane Tourch.

Worked on my Porsche, BMW and the NSX.

God I do hate doing exhausts.
 
I would suggest using brass nuts too. In euro countries metric sized nuts are easy-peasy to get. I've used stainless bolts, copper washers and brass nuts before.

Don't you have nut splitters available? They fit round a nut and you screw in a blade shaped pin that will cut the nut open.
 
mc-ca said:
My local muffler shop switched out exhausts for about $75. Beats the cost of bloody knuckles.
Click to expand...
Some of us work on our cars as therapy. Bloody knuckles on occasion are part of the experience. When my own fleet of used cars is working well and detailed to death, I work on the cars of friends and relatives. I do wear gloves when I do exhaust systems though.
 
j14nsx,

The problem I have with "nut splitters" is they never seem to fit in the area where I need them:).

Steve,

Are these the cam type sockets? Will they actually fit in this situation for removing the 14mm exhaust nuts??

I have some snap-on gizmo sockets, like I think you are talking about, but in MOST situations the damn things are too big in diameter for the application. I will go to sears and check them out.

Thanks,
LarryB
 
Larry, not sure what you mean by cam type sockets. They do the cat bolts, I am not sure how long the stud is on the exhaust. I am telling you guys, this tool is sweet!!

Craftsman 10 pc. Impact Grade Bolt-Out™ Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover

Specialty socket set designed to easily remove rounded, damaged or corroded nuts, bolts, wheel lugs, pipes, pipe nipples or studs. Fits sizes 3/8 to 3/4 in. and 10mm to 19mm plus punch.

Sears item #00952165000



* Spiraled, fluted taper on socket interior bites into damaged fasteners and won't let go
* When turned counter-clockwise, socket grabs/contacts greater surface area
* Use with impact wrench, air ratchet, hand ratchet or breaker bar
* Ideal for automotive, motorcycle, marine and industrial applications or home use
 

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Steve,

Nice!! Looks like they do not take up any more space then a standard socket and work with all 3/8 drive tools. I will be ordering a set of these:).

FYI, Sears of offering free shipping rebates for web orders at the moment:).

Thanks,
LarryB
 
just as the thread subject says...

I've been trying to remove my exhaust, and due to time/environment the exhaust bolts & nuts have rusted. I've been unable to remove them by conventional means (6-point socket, lubricants/penetrants, effort).

Also, I've tried WD40. No success in 'breaking' the frozen nuts, but atleast some corrosion was removed as I let it soak overnite, and then repeat.

Then I tried Liquid WRENCH: Non-Flammable Super Lubricant with PTFE. I was unsuccessful again. I used an 1/2" & 3/8"rachet w/ a 6-point drive, even employing a heavy-duty 18" pipe wrench to 'tap' the socket and bolt. I have reapplied Liquid Wrench again for it to soak-in a second nite.

Gunk:Liquid Wrench Non-flammable Super Lubricant/Penetrant with PTFE
SM_L312.JPG


One can does it all… Loosens rusted nuts and bolts, releases frozen and corroded parts,
frees seized joints and mechanisms, lubricates locks, hinges and casters.
Stops squeaks and squeals. Displaces moisture and inhibits corrosion.

When I exerted some extra gusto', two things started to happen:

- I felt a hernia coming on... :eek:
- The exhaust-manifold and cats' started to turn (very slightly) and creak... :rolleyes:

Throwing the NSX on jack-stands daily becomes a bit of a burden, should I try PB Blaster Penetrant if this 2nd exposure of Liquid Wrench doesn't work?

BTW, I left the heat-shields remaining on my cat's.
 
Osiris,

I was able to remove mine with liquid wrench and an electric impact wrench. Let me know if you want to borrow it. :smile:
 
:mad: im having the same problems right now. I cant find my Torque wrench though so i cant even attempt herniating myself yet. As soon as i find it though, those bolts are gonna get it.
 
If you don't have an impact wrench which is really the best, and you want to get by cheap, use leverage! Go to home depot and buy some iron plumbing pipe wide enough to fit over your breaker bar and anywhere from 12''-36'' in length. This will allow you to gain some great leverage minus the hernia for less than 10$ also PBblaster is good stuff to use in conjunction!

NOTE: Do not use this method to put them back on, or I promise you will never be able to get them off.

High grade metric bolts can be found at www.boltdepot.com and don't have a maximum number to buy.
 
Did my exhaust just the other day.

When I went to remove the OEM exhaust this is what I did.

removed bolts from the heat shields and moved the sheilds out of the way to have more room to work.

Sprayed PB blaster on the nuts/bolts of the exhaust where it connected to the cats. Let it sit for about 20-30 mins.

Broke the bolts loose with a regular ratchet. Then used my air ratchet to take them off.

PITA part was the rubber hangers! But all in all was a very simple job. Didn't take long at all.
Good luck!:wink:
 

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