Cam Plugs

[Vegas Boy]

Do these leak frequently? I think I have one that is leaking slightly, was going to replace all 8- is this fairly easy for DIY?
Do you have to remove the valve covers or do they just press in?

 

[Larry Bastanza]

There are 4 cam plugs. Nope, they do not press in. Taking off the valve cover will not get you to them for replacement either. This is a pretty extensive job, not easy at all.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[nsxhk]

How extensive are we talking about? 4 hours?

Mine is leaking slightly too. Is there a better than oem cam plugs we can use?



Henry.

 

[Vegas Boy]

Thanks for the tip, guess I will wait until the car is in for
valves to have this done. They are not leaking that bad.
I did the spool valve O rings, and that cleared up 90% of the
oil leaking.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Theoretically you will need to remove the cams, but many guys can shortcut it by raising the cams slightly, evenly and slipping the old ones out and the new ones in. I am not quite thinking a first timer would get it done in 4 hours, maybe a few more.

You may wish to speak with Barney Demonbreun (Barnman). I know he does it this way.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[Vegas Boy]

Good info, thanks. I think I am going to leave them alone unless they start really leaking. At this point, it is very minor.

 

[nsxhk]

Larry,

Thnx for the tips.

I am curious, have you ever seen or heard a nsx cam plug leaking severely? Should I be concern with a little seepage? Mine has been seeping for like 3 years now

Henry.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

I guess it depends on your definition of severely. Smell from dripping on the exhaust, yes. Oil pouring out no, I have not seen that. Frankly the relatively severe leak(makes things pretty wet down there) is the VTEC spool valve seals, the cam plugs have oil unpressurized behind them, the VTEC spool valve has oil pressure so a small leak in the seal produces a bigger leak.

Oil pan gasket leaks are also pretty common, basically a damp pan.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[Cees-Jan]

You will have to remove the last bearing of the cams only, you can do this safely by removing the force on the cam on which you want to replace, so when adjusting valve clearance in this cylinder is possible, ther is clearance and you can safely remove just one bearingcover.
I always put a lot of black sealant on the rubbery seal, never leaks.

When combined with valve adjustement should take about half an hour.

 

[DanO]

You will have to remove the last bearing of the cams only...by removing the force on the cam on which you want to replace...

Pretty neat trick. If I remember correctly, the last bearing goes across both cams. Is there a engine position where there is not force on both cams?

DanO

 

[Cees-Jan]

Yes this position is achieved when you adjust the valves of the cylinder, when you propperly adjust aswell intake and exhaust valves have clearance.....so no force on the cam.

 

[ScienceofSpeed]

We will be offering billet cam plugs shortly. They will not shrink and contract like the factory plugs do. They are an especially good idea for cars that will be seeing high head temps that cause accelerated wear of the factory plugs. You'll never need to replace these plugs again.

Regards,
-- Chris

 

[nsxhk]

Way kewl! I was just about to order some cam plugs!! Please let me know when they're available.

Henry.

 

[MJK]

We will be offering billet cam plugs shortly. They will not shrink and contract like the factory plugs do. They are an especially good idea for cars that will be seeing high head temps that cause accelerated wear of the factory plugs. You'll never need to replace these plugs again.

Regards,
-- Chris

What happened to this? Still in the works?

 

[TypeRTurbo]

What happened to this? Still in the works?

I just replaced my cam seals a month ago with billet ones. I'll post pics later on today. They come in different colors: red, titanium, silver, and blue. You can order them from Tommy at RPM NYC :biggrin: