hi ya'll,
after cleaning the engine comparment, what do you use to keep it nice and shine?
after cleaning the engine comparment, what do you use to keep it nice and shine?
Brighten up the engine compartment
- Thread starter PoohBEAR
- Start date
I degrease the engine, gently hose it down, then apply Forumula 2000 in huge quantities, do a few errands around town, and then the engine bay is nice and shiney. The heat from the engine evaporates the F2000 so you don't have to wipe it down or anything. It works great.
[This message has been edited by Ponyboy (edited 05 January 2003).]
[This message has been edited by Ponyboy (edited 05 January 2003).]
When you do this hosing down, is there anything in particular you try to avoid getting wet? I'm afraid I'll screw something up so I do all dry cleaning but would like to be able to wash it. Enlighten me please.
When I cleaned my engine like this (water, then tire-shine foam), my rear window fogged up for days after. Is there any way to reduce this problem?
However, the results are very satisfying.
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keep the shiny side up
MikeC 01 #46
[This message has been edited by mikec (edited 06 January 2003).]
However, the results are very satisfying.
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keep the shiny side up
MikeC 01 #46
[This message has been edited by mikec (edited 06 January 2003).]
Same thing happens when i power wash my engine but i just do what everyone else
does.........let it evaporate.
You really want to cover up the electronic stuff. That's to say if you see an exposed wire hanging out of something, cover it up. I either end up using some sort of small plastic bag or a towel. If you have an exposed air filter element you want to cover that up as well.
It's a little difficult to get rid of the evaportated Formula 2000. I use a very small amount of Simple Green - very very small and wash the windows. If you don't care to use that, try using some sort of mild soap but something strong enough to cut through the greasiness. Keeping the engine cover on helps keep the shiney stuff out of the engine hatch glass. Sometimes, I'll let the car idle for 3 or 4 minutes with the engine hatch glass open with the engine cover on to get the desired result.
Hope it helps.
It's a little difficult to get rid of the evaportated Formula 2000. I use a very small amount of Simple Green - very very small and wash the windows. If you don't care to use that, try using some sort of mild soap but something strong enough to cut through the greasiness. Keeping the engine cover on helps keep the shiney stuff out of the engine hatch glass. Sometimes, I'll let the car idle for 3 or 4 minutes with the engine hatch glass open with the engine cover on to get the desired result.
Hope it helps.
Simple Green works well too for the cleaning part of it. Then spray some 'No Touch' tire foam on it and take a little ride around. Worked wonders on my 100k mile Integra.
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ALL NSX
92 RED/BLACK 5-SPEED
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ALL NSX
92 RED/BLACK 5-SPEED
I rinse mine down with a hose (no attachment just straight out of the hose), don't worry about getting everything in there can take a little water like this, just not high pressure. then spray simple green around everywhere (my simple green is diluted 1:1 in water), then rinse clean. You can then add some tire stuff to shine up the hoses and such.
As for the rear window, just wipe it down with some windex afterwards to avoid the fogging.
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92 Red/Blk
As for the rear window, just wipe it down with some windex afterwards to avoid the fogging.
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92 Red/Blk
I drive after engine cleaning without the canopy securely attached. No fog.
Tan
Tan
To keep my engine bay clean, I give it a wipe down with a rag everytime I was the car. It works.
- Joined
- 3 February 2000
- Messages
- 3,942
If you have an aftermarket exposed air intake filter you should put a plastic bag over it before going nuts with a hose in there.
I'd also try not to get too much water down by the ignition coils, especially water under any kind of pressure. They are not the most waterproof of designs unfortunately.
I'd also try not to get too much water down by the ignition coils, especially water under any kind of pressure. They are not the most waterproof of designs unfortunately.
Doug’s Insanely Cool Engine detailing trick
Ok, I too was a skeptic when Doug said that a detailer friend of his has a neat trick for detailing the engine compartment.
The ’91 Integra – BEFORE
And AFTER……yes, believe it our not, this is the same car!!!
Here’s how it works:
Start preferably in the morning when you engine is very very cold – you want to minimize evaporation.
Open up your engine compartment, and spray Gunk Engine Cleaner everywhere you possibly can. Try shooting it from different angles, standing in different places around the engine compartment.
Let that sit for 15-20 min.
Next, take a garden hose and gently rinse everything off (preferably with a sprinkler attachment) you do not want to use pressure here!
To lock-in the shinyness, use Armorall foaming tire cleaner.
Close the hood, drive the car or run the engine for 30 min or so to evaporate all the water, and when you open the hood, you will not believe your eyes!!!
To touch up large rubber or plastic parts, use some silicone tire spray, but be careful, remember not to overspray and hit your tint or paint... the silicone stuff eats it!!
… That’s it!!!
[This message has been edited by NSXTC (edited 10 January 2003).]
Ok, I too was a skeptic when Doug said that a detailer friend of his has a neat trick for detailing the engine compartment.
The ’91 Integra – BEFORE
And AFTER……yes, believe it our not, this is the same car!!!
Here’s how it works:
Start preferably in the morning when you engine is very very cold – you want to minimize evaporation.
Open up your engine compartment, and spray Gunk Engine Cleaner everywhere you possibly can. Try shooting it from different angles, standing in different places around the engine compartment.
Let that sit for 15-20 min.
Next, take a garden hose and gently rinse everything off (preferably with a sprinkler attachment) you do not want to use pressure here!
To lock-in the shinyness, use Armorall foaming tire cleaner.
Close the hood, drive the car or run the engine for 30 min or so to evaporate all the water, and when you open the hood, you will not believe your eyes!!!
To touch up large rubber or plastic parts, use some silicone tire spray, but be careful, remember not to overspray and hit your tint or paint... the silicone stuff eats it!!
… That’s it!!!
[This message has been edited by NSXTC (edited 10 January 2003).]
Great Pics - wouldn't hardly believe it's same motor! Nice job!
Umm, where exactly are these coils located in the engine? Just a general direction would suffice so I know to avoid them.
Wow ... great job!
I used simple green and tire foam, and had fair results on my Accord.
When you stated "spray Gunk Engine Cleaner everywhere you possibly can", did you apply it on the plastic air cleaner assembly, hoses, belts, pulleys, windshield washer reservoir, and painted fire wall, and wheel well areas where the top struts are attached?
[This message has been edited by Slingshot (edited 12 January 2003).]
I used simple green and tire foam, and had fair results on my Accord.
When you stated "spray Gunk Engine Cleaner everywhere you possibly can", did you apply it on the plastic air cleaner assembly, hoses, belts, pulleys, windshield washer reservoir, and painted fire wall, and wheel well areas where the top struts are attached?
[This message has been edited by Slingshot (edited 12 January 2003).]
- Joined
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- Messages
- 3,942
Originally posted by Joel:
Umm, where exactly are these coils located in the engine? Just a general direction would suffice so I know to avoid them.
They are at the very front and very rear of the engine. The coil covers are the strip of metal a couple inches wide that looks sort of like this aftermarket billet one:
The Gunk engine cleaner is designed just for that, and I believe is essestially safe for all these materials (you may want to reserach that first on their label and/or website). They had to figure that they would have many users sprying the stuff all over many different engine compartment materials. The big concern IMO is the tire foam, which of course is not intended to be sprayed in an engine compartment (hence the "trick" involved here) The tire foam "locks" in the shine.
You can see the results in the pictures! The only difference is that we bought a new set of spark plug wires after detailing the engine.
[This message has been edited by NSXTC (edited 12 January 2003).]
You can see the results in the pictures! The only difference is that we bought a new set of spark plug wires after detailing the engine.
[This message has been edited by NSXTC (edited 12 January 2003).]
I would be a bit wary about the hose spray depending on the mineral content of the water you have in your area. Water here in Orange County Calif. is loaded with salts. If you have naturally soft water, you are probably in better shape. Or better, if you can get a good supply of purified or distilled water. The detergents will be much more effective, too. Hard water that has been softened is worse because it has higher sodium (as in table salt and sea water) than the incoming water. IMHO
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