Brembo Gran Turismo kit

[prova4re]

I have the GT kit on my car, and the screws that hold the rotor to the hats are lose. There are ten screws and every other one is lose. I looked behind the rotor to see if I could tighten them up, but it looks like its missing some metal feet that the other screws have to keep them tight.
Does anyone else have this problem?
Thanks Brian.

 

[donwon]

They are supposed to come that way. I belive its the "Floating” Disc Mounting System:

Supposed to reduce “Unsprung Weight” for better handling and reduces heat-related stress; increases brake performance and pedal feel according to the website.

 

[docjohn]

Make sure to check with your vendor on proper torque of those hat bolts.on my indy kit they should be only 5 ft/lbs.In the past we had erred on the side of overtorquing which did'nt allow them to move slightly under braking.this movement needs to happen because the callipers are fixed.Also those mounting clips alternate with the bobbens like yours some with clips and some without.

 

[Yellow Rose]

Hi Brian - every other screw will have the metal spring, and every other screw will not.

John is correct, the torque to tighten all ten screws per rotor is only 5 FT-LB. That is so low, my regular torque wrench could not be set that low, so I purchased a smaller one. The only time I used the small torque wrench was for the Brembo screws; however, you can easily exceed 5 FT-LB with a regular wrench, even if you do not have Popeye arms.

BTW, I think the instructions call for Locktite red on all of the screws.

 

[prova4re]

Thanks guy's, so every other screw should be lose?
I can touch them and they move and make a clicking sound, but it looks like they are tite.

I am having some problems with my front end its making a poping sound, I think it might be my stearing rack.

I think my calipers a hanging up a little, when I took my wheel off and spun my rotor. You could feal and hear the brake pad rubing on the rotor. Its like it doesn't let go all the way, how do I fix this?
Thanks Brian.

 

[docjohn]

you don't fix it,There will always be some pad drag,my system won't spin freely and I have no problems from such.

 

[prova4re]

Thanks Doc, I feal better now.

 

[Yellow Rose]

Thanks guy's, so every other screw should be lose?

I can touch them and they move and make a clicking sound, but it looks like they are tite.

Correct.

 

[docjohn]

Thanks Doc, I feal better now.

No problem,but please setup a follow up appointment with my office!lol I had to

 

[prova4re]

Hey doc, one last thing before you bill me......lol
Do you have a big brake proportioning valve kit installed?
Do you know who makes the best one?

I found out what the front end noise is, the sway bar came lose on one side.
Thanks Brian

 

[titaniumdave]

I have Brembos on the front only, no proportioning valve. Most 'brake tech' folks I talk to say there is no need for a proportioning valve. The dynamic change in weight transfer will make the front brakes work more, the harder you brake, and the difference in rotor diameters should be about right to compensate for this. I can get brake lock on the inside front tire when I am standing on the brakes as I set up for a corner and am transfering weight to the outside. I think this is about right, last thing I would want is more power in the rear, the front is so easy to read and correct if I ever get to the point of lock. My ABS system has never worked on this car, it had the Brembos installed when I got it, FYI.

There may be need for a proportioning valve if you have 13" rotors on all 4 corners, if not, I am very happy with my set up and I say run it like it is!

 

[Yellow Rose]

I have Brembo 13" rotors at all four corners.

Running the same pad compound front and rear, I could lock up the rears with ease. I was planning on installing a proportioning valve, but the tubing was a nightmare.

I pinged Comptech and a couple of other brake guys, and they recommended instead of a proportioning valve, to try a softer pad compound in the back. Now my rears do not lock up.

I run Carbotech Panther Plus up front and Porterfield R-4S in the back.

 

[NSX 3.0]

I have Brembo 13" rotors at all four corners.

Running the same pad compound front and rear, I could lock up the rears with ease. I was planning on installing a proportioning valve, but the tubing was a nightmare.

I pinged Comptech and a couple of other brake guys, and they recommended instead of a proportioning valve, to try a softer pad compound in the back. Now my rears do not lock up.

I run Carbotech Panther Plus up front and Porterfield R-4S in the back.

Andy,
Did you get your BBK front and rear all at the same time or just the fronts first. The only reason I ask is I would like to know how much better braking did you get with adding the rears in your opinion.

 

[Yellow Rose]

I bought all four at the same time.

 

[docjohn]

I don't experience bias issues with the stock rear. I ,like Andy use different pad compounds front and rear.My only issue has been that the bbk does reduce the abs such that I feel like I don't have abs,ie I can lock up my fronts at will but thats ok,better than locking the rears first!