For those of you who were unable to attend NSXPO 2004, I wanted to share some information about brakes provided by Andie Lin of Cobalt Friction.
Rotors - Cross drilled rotors look cool but are prone to cracking. Also, if the holes aren't countersunk, then can cause increased pad wear. The Porsche and Ferrari cross drilled rotors are not drilled but cast. Also, these rotors are much thicker and durable as compared to commercially available ones including Brembo. Lastly, if the rotors aren't heat treated after the holes are drilled, the rotors are more prone to cracking due to change in the metal structure around the holes.
If you have vented rotors, look at the vents. They can be straight or slanted. If they are slanted, they are directional and specific to the side of the car. The directional vents should be pointed towards the rear of the car on the NSX such that it draws air from the hub and vents it out to the outside of the rotor.
If you change your brake pads without changing the rotor, you should have the rotor turned or at the least, lightly sand both sides of the rotor with aluminum oxide sandpaper (100 grit) to remove the previous brake pad material from the rotor. The key word is gently! If you don't, the compounds may be incompatible and you may have no braking force. After changing everything, you will need to rebed the brakes.
Pads-Choose the pad for the purpose and make sure that you choose the pad within the heat range of your application. Call his company for advice!
Brake Fluid-Use good fluid and flush annually (He said it). Make sure that you remove the fluid from the resevoir with a turkey baster since you don't want the sediment to go through your system. Also, don't push the brake pedal down more than 1/2 way. You can look at the FAQ for more info.
Brake Lines-Stainless lines look cool and provide better pedal feel but have had problems of rupture. He pointed out that good modern lines are coated with plastic. What happened is that grit would get through the stainless braiding and would be between the stainless braid and the teflon inner. The constant rubbing would cause a failure of the teflon inner tube. The clear plastic cover prevents the grit from getting through the stainless braid.
A lot of this is in the FAQ as well as in DANOLAND DIY site but I just wanted to share it in one spot.
Tim
Rotors - Cross drilled rotors look cool but are prone to cracking. Also, if the holes aren't countersunk, then can cause increased pad wear. The Porsche and Ferrari cross drilled rotors are not drilled but cast. Also, these rotors are much thicker and durable as compared to commercially available ones including Brembo. Lastly, if the rotors aren't heat treated after the holes are drilled, the rotors are more prone to cracking due to change in the metal structure around the holes.
If you have vented rotors, look at the vents. They can be straight or slanted. If they are slanted, they are directional and specific to the side of the car. The directional vents should be pointed towards the rear of the car on the NSX such that it draws air from the hub and vents it out to the outside of the rotor.
If you change your brake pads without changing the rotor, you should have the rotor turned or at the least, lightly sand both sides of the rotor with aluminum oxide sandpaper (100 grit) to remove the previous brake pad material from the rotor. The key word is gently! If you don't, the compounds may be incompatible and you may have no braking force. After changing everything, you will need to rebed the brakes.
Pads-Choose the pad for the purpose and make sure that you choose the pad within the heat range of your application. Call his company for advice!
Brake Fluid-Use good fluid and flush annually (He said it). Make sure that you remove the fluid from the resevoir with a turkey baster since you don't want the sediment to go through your system. Also, don't push the brake pedal down more than 1/2 way. You can look at the FAQ for more info.
Brake Lines-Stainless lines look cool and provide better pedal feel but have had problems of rupture. He pointed out that good modern lines are coated with plastic. What happened is that grit would get through the stainless braiding and would be between the stainless braid and the teflon inner. The constant rubbing would cause a failure of the teflon inner tube. The clear plastic cover prevents the grit from getting through the stainless braid.
A lot of this is in the FAQ as well as in DANOLAND DIY site but I just wanted to share it in one spot.
Tim
