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If it only happens when the brakes get hot, that is a classic sign of "brake shudder". As noted in the FAQ, brake shudder occurs when hot spots develop on the rotor. This phenomenon means that different spots on the rotor expand with different heat coefficients, so that the rotor is flat when cold, but not flat when it gets hot. I had ongoing problems with brake shudder on my mostly-tracked car. It would go away if I replaced my rotors, but would re-appear after a couple of track events, and become unbearable after a couple more. It finally went away for good when I installed cooling ducts, as well as using aftermarket pads and rotors.Turning the rotors is fine for a street-driven car, which is why I suggested it for the first example given. For a car that is going to be driven on the track (or otherwise driven hard), the downside of turning the rotors is that it makes them more susceptible to shudder problems.
If it only happens when the brakes get hot, that is a classic sign of "brake shudder". As noted in the FAQ, brake shudder occurs when hot spots develop on the rotor. This phenomenon means that different spots on the rotor expand with different heat coefficients, so that the rotor is flat when cold, but not flat when it gets hot. I had ongoing problems with brake shudder on my mostly-tracked car. It would go away if I replaced my rotors, but would re-appear after a couple of track events, and become unbearable after a couple more. It finally went away for good when I installed cooling ducts, as well as using aftermarket pads and rotors.
Turning the rotors is fine for a street-driven car, which is why I suggested it for the first example given. For a car that is going to be driven on the track (or otherwise driven hard), the downside of turning the rotors is that it makes them more susceptible to shudder problems.
