Brake problem - pedal depresses all the way

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16 December 2007
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Well took the car out today for a run, all was fine up until a couple of hrs ago when the brake pedal lost all pressure, the ABS light and hand brake light came on and stayed on. So I pulled back into the office and had a look round, the brake fluid was low, so I topped it up and the started the car again, warning lights all went out ok, but the pressure didnt return to the pedal. So I'm having a look round now for any signs of a leak but cant see anything so far?

Question now is, how do I get the pressure back in the system?
 
Last edited:
Question now is, how do I get the pressure back in the system?

If your level went low, there must be a leak. Check again the lines and the master cylinder. When everything is ok/parts replaced, you must bleed the system because, if your reservoir went low, it is possible that air came in the system.
 
If you have a leak which empties the reservoir there must be stains of fluid somewhere. Have a look at the whole system. Have a closer look at the brake master too. If the paint of the brake booster is chipping off your master is calling. :) They're prone to leak after a lot of years (What year is your car?) If you can't find a leak or so in any other area your master is leaking into the brake booster and you soon have to replace both ($$$$). Good luck!
Safetywise just bleeding will not do it you have to find the leak.
 
Hi,

Thanks for the replys.

I had a look round the master cylinder and its bone dry and looks quite new with no signs of rust anywhere.

However after Kaz on NSXCB mentioned checking the calipers and brake lines, I got the car raised and there it was, leak on the front passanger side, which I assume is coming from the black brake line that I pointed too in the second pic.

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Glad you found the problem. I didn't notice your location right away so I was confused when you said passenger side with a left front picture. :p :p :p
 
Looks more like the driver side to me but wait you're in the UK. :) Not important anyway. Personally I'd be interested why it leaks. Maybe it's the joint or an animal bite into it. BTW change all four if your car is older. :)
 
Looks more like the driver side to me but wait you're in the UK. :) Not important anyway. Personally I'd be interested why it leaks. Maybe it's the joint or an animal bite into it. BTW change all four if your car is older. :)

Dont think it would be an animal bite as I keep my car garaged and there noting in there or can get in there! lol I also dont drive it that much or leave it sitting out at nite etc for little critter to be having chew lol

Could it be age? or maybe a stone shot up and cliped it?

I'm thinking of going with braided hoses, and like you said, changing all 4 along with a bleed and new fluid etc.
 
Looks like you have a coilover suspension and the brake line is not secured to the shock body. Maybe it was flapping around and developed a leak? Either way, looks to me like a sloppy install by whoever installed the suspension. You should check the other side and make sure it is secured.
 
ak, good point, I didn't see it at first. Indeed the brake line should be secured to the shock body. I think this is more likely the cause for the failure than anything else.
 
Looks like you have a coilover suspension and the brake line is not secured to the shock body. Maybe it was flapping around and developed a leak? Either way, looks to me like a sloppy install by whoever installed the suspension. You should check the other side and make sure it is secured.

Yeah you are correct! I have endless Zeal Suspension, was actually wondering what that support on the hose was for lol Now I know.
 
Guys, I have ordered braided stainless line, and just wondering what is the best method to replacing the lines and also bleeding the system?

I seen the write up on danoland, on how to bleed the brakes, but as I have to replace the lines, what is the best way to do lines and bleed?
 
Replacing the lines is easy. The only thing I recall here from prime is that the caliper don't like Gorilla-like torque. 35 Nm? Have a look in the manual. Make sure you mount it on the shock tube (modify it). A special tool (brake line 'thingy') helps removing the old hose a lot. Otherwise you f*ck up the screw. :)

Bleeding as Danoland describes is ok. Nothing more is required if you change the hoses. If you got air in the system at the master cylinder you may need several cycles to bleed it out. Bleeding more times than required is not harming at all. :)

As you've opened the system please check if system pressure doesn't fall if you press the brake pedal for more than two minutes. The pedal must be hard and must not give in a mm during this time.
 
Replacing the lines is easy. The only thing I recall here from prime is that the caliper don't like Gorilla-like torque. 35 Nm? Have a look in the manual. Make sure you mount it on the shock tube (modify it). A special tool (brake line 'thingy') helps removing the old hose a lot. Otherwise you f*ck up the screw. :)

Bleeding as Danoland describes is ok. Nothing more is required if you change the hoses. If you got air in the system at the master cylinder you may need several cycles to bleed it out. Bleeding more times than required is not harming at all. :)

As you've opened the system please check if system pressure doesn't fall if you press the brake pedal for more than two minutes. The pedal must be hard and must not give in a mm during this time.

Hi,

Thanks for that! So I take it I replace the lines first and then bleed the system?

Your right about the torque, I noticed in the manual and danoland that, only a small amout of torque is needed. When you say special tool (brake line thingy) what is that?? lol

Any recommendations on how to mount to the shock body?
 
No offense but you're asking questions where I think you should let a pro have it done. It's a pretty simple task BUT for a professional. While working on the brakes security is involved, not only yours but also the other ones (pedestrians, dogs, cats, feministic women etc. in this order :D ok a little sarcastic :tongue:). You have to be fully aware and should be able to do this job even after having drunk 10 beers without a single mistake AND within 30 minutes. :)

The bleeing takes place AFTER the line is mounted.

I don't consider 35 Nm (see in the manual) at the caliper small, it's somewhere between light and Gorilla-like. :)

Good luck!
 
No offense but you're asking questions where I think you should let a pro have it done. It's a pretty simple task BUT for a professional. While working on the brakes security is involved, not only yours but also the other ones (pedestrians, dogs, cats, feministic women etc. in this order :D ok a little sarcastic :tongue:). You have to be fully aware and should be able to do this job even after having drunk 10 beers without a single mistake AND within 30 minutes. :)

The bleeing takes place AFTER the line is mounted.

I don't consider 35 Nm (see in the manual) at the caliper small, it's somewhere between light and Gorilla-like. :)

Good luck!

No offense taken! and I am quite capable of working on the car, there is no harm in asking and double checking, thats the forum is for is it not?

Thanks for the reply, got the new line ordered so will just ahve to wait now.
 
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