brake pad/rotor replacement, painting calipers

[Jay444]

Embarking on my first DIY job on my NSX. I will be replacing all brake pads and rotors. As well, I plan on removing and painting my calipers.

I've ordered the following:
Cobalt GT Sport pads
PowerSlot Slotted rotors
Speedbleeders

I'm using Motul RBF600 brake fluid.

Have yet to purchase the caliper paint...but I'm leaning towards a high heat (1200F) spray paint.

I have gone through the DIY pages, and I'm going through the service manual now. I'll probably start the job on the weekend. I've worked on my others cars before, but I would consider myself a novice mechanic. This will be my first brake job.

I'm a bit unclear on the procedure for removing the caliper from the brake line.

I'd welcome any input/advice you guys have to offer pertaining to any part of this job.

 

[NSXnBRLA]

Do yourself a favor and have the calipers powdercoated if possible. I realize that some people have had good luck with caliper paint, but i've seen the durability of both and powdercoating wins, hands down. Mine have been PC'd for 4 years and look as new as the day I had them done.

Embarking on my first DIY job on my NSX. I will be replacing all brake pads and rotors. As well, I plan on removing and painting my calipers.

I've ordered the following:
Cobalt GT Sport pads
PowerSlot Slotted rotors
Speedbleeders

I'm using Motul RBF600 brake fluid.

Have yet to purchase the caliper paint...but I'm leaning towards a high heat (1200F) spray paint.

I have gone through the DIY pages, and I'm going through the service manual now. I'll probably start the job on the weekend. I've worked on my others cars before, but I would consider myself a novice mechanic. This will be my first brake job.

I'm a bit unclear on the procedure for removing the caliper from the brake line.

I'd welcome any input/advice you guys have to offer pertaining to any part of this job.

 

[john@johnhudakracing]

Embarking on my first DIY job on my NSX. I will be replacing all brake pads and rotors. As well, I plan on removing and painting my calipers.

I've ordered the following:
Cobalt GT Sport pads
PowerSlot Slotted rotors
Speedbleeders

Add new crush washers for the lines and high temp grease to the list so you can lube your slider pins while they are out, and check the seals.

I'm using Motul RBF600 brake fluid.

Unless your having an overheating problem this will be adequate for most applications.

Have yet to purchase the caliper paint...but I'm leaning towards a high heat (1200F) spray paint.

Any coating, including a professional powdercoat will come off, it's inevitable and if your hard on your brakes on the track it won't take long at all- hence why higher end billet racing calipers aren't coated at all. The G2 and other caliper paint kits hold up 'ok' for a little while, the spray on stuff at shucks flakes quickly. The bottom line is with hard use any coating will need be re-finished or touched-up regularly. With frequent maintenance on your brakes you'll find it won't matter, just touch them up when needed.

I have gone through the DIY pages, and I'm going through the service manual now. I'll probably start the job on the weekend. I've worked on my others cars before, but I would consider myself a novice mechanic. This will be my first brake job.

Ensure to not over torque the hardware like the speed bleeders which are a mere 7 ft lbs. It seems to be a common mistake. Once it is all together, do a really good bleed a few times and make certain you don't have any leaks.

I'm a bit unclear on the procedure for removing the caliper from the brake line.

Umm, just un-bolt it. No real trick here.

I'd welcome any input/advice you guys have to offer pertaining to any part of this job.

After your done, make sure you bed in the GT-Sports and new rotors properly. It is important. Do a good 7-10 80-20 stops (not wussy stops) getting them good and hot, and then let them cool down- cool night air on the highway is ideal. Ideally let the car sit 12 hours to overnight.

 

[Jay444]

John...thanks for your reply...

I will be removing the calipers in order to clean/paint them.

Do I need a(10mm) flare nut wrench to remove the brake line?

I know you have to push in the caliper pistons when installing new brake pads....in the DIY this was done while the brake line was still attached to the caliper. In my case does it matter when I push in the pistons (before or after removing the brake line)?

Is it possible to remove the brake line from the calipers without completely draining the fluid? I had the fluid checked in November when I bought the car and it tested well (Motul RBF600). Should I just put new fluid in? (In searching the forums...it looks like I will need 1 Liter?)

 

[MiamieNeSeX]

Is it possible to remove the brake line from the calipers without completely draining the fluid? I had the fluid checked in November when I bought the car and it tested well (Motul RBF600). Should I just put new fluid in? (In searching the forums...it looks like I will need 1 Liter?)

You will need to add fluid as well as bleed the brakes, no matter how careful you are.

Armando

 

[Jay444]

Just checked with the local dealer for crush washers for the brake line. They quoted me $4.84/ea...and they only have 4.

Does anyone know if I can get these from any auto parts store? If so, what size do I get?

 

[fangtl]

Do I need a(10mm) flare nut wrench to remove the brake line?

Use a regular 14mm, you might want to loosen the brake line bolt before you remove the caliper completely.

I know you have to push in the caliper pistons when installing new brake pads....in the DIY this was done while the brake line was still attached to the caliper. In my case does it matter when I push in the pistons (before or after removing the brake line)?

Once the pads are removed, you can compress the pistons. Just make sure your MC is not topped when compressing.

Is it possible to remove the brake line from the calipers without completely draining the fluid? I had the fluid checked in November when I bought the car and it tested well (Motul RBF600). Should I just put new fluid in? (In searching the forums...it looks like I will need 1 Liter?)

Yes, you can pinch the line. Regardless, if the caliper is coming off, you should bleed. 1L is more than enough, I usually get by with just a 1/2 liter.

ak and I have done this at least 1/2 dozen times in the last 4 months, it's a rather simple process after you've done it once. Good luck, and remember you'll need a fat flathead screwdriver or that special tool to compress the rear calipers.

 

[Jeff A]

You'll probably need an impact wrench (I used the non-pneumatic kind, with a hammer) with a large phillips screwdriver head to get the 2 screws off that hold the rotor on. I suggest you don't put them back afterward, the lugnuts hold the rotors on just fine - the screws are apparently mostly for the factory building process. And the 17mm bolts that hold on the caliper bracket are really tight - I used a 2nd large box wrench to add leverage on to the 17mm box wrench in order to get them off. Reassembly is a lot easier.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

If you are not updating the brake lines you just need a 14mm 6 point socket to loosen the banjo's. You will need to bleed, count on it.

There is only one 10mm fastener to remove if you do not change the brake lines, and that is to open the bleeder valves. For the bleeder valves use a 6 point 10mm socket to get the old one's off, then you will need a different size for the speedbleeders since then are an american size.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[D'Ecosse]

...s it possible to remove the brake line from the calipers without completely draining the fluid? I had the fluid checked in November when I bought the car and it tested well (Motul RBF600). Should I just put new fluid in? (In searching the forums...it looks like I will need 1 Liter?)...

I think you're asking, "How can I stop all the fluid from draining out when I remove the line to take my calipers off for painting"

I simply clamp vize grips on the rubber hose.
Of course you obviously have to top up the reservoir & bleed after you re-attach the calipers.
Speedbleeders are 3/8" if I recall.

 

[Jay444]

Thanks guys.

Yes...I bought the special tool for the rear calipers and an impact driver set.

D'Ecosse...won't pinching the brake line with vice grips risk damaging/weakening the line?

 

[MiamieNeSeX]

I would not pinch the brake line. Just fold it over and tie wrap it together.

Armando

 

[Jay444]

Ok...started the job this evening. Got the car up on jack stands, took off the wheels and removed the front left caliper. I cannot get the rotor off (those phillips screws!).

I did use an impact screw driver...hit it a few times...but it didn't budge. So i sprayed some liquid wrench on it and left it for the night as it was getting late. I'll try it again in the morning

This is my first time using an impact screw driver...so I'm thinking I might not be doing it right (DanO's instructions say it should come off easily after hitting it a few times with an impact screwdriver.) I applied a bit of torque to the impact wrench before hitting it..if I applied too much, the rotor would spin.

Any suggestions?


I have a cordless impact wrench (this one http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=5726)..but I haven't tried that yet.

 

[D'Ecosse]

I would not pinch the brake line. Just fold it over and tie wrap it together.

Don't see the difference really in the net result - both methods just squishing the rubber together to form a seal. However, if anything I actually think squeezing it with the vize grips is less stress on the rubber than folding it over double for the tie-wrap method (The "outside" radius will obviously have to stretch much more than the "inside" of the bend)
Note: I definitely wouldn't use either of these methods with a steel braided teflon line

rsf944 - I'm not talking about an incredible force here with the grips, doesn't take much pressure to just seal the rubber together without damaging the wall of the hose. I learned that trick as a boy watching my father, a mechanic.
On the impact wrench, make sure it is set appropriately for loosening - not meant to be condescending, it can be confusing! (Also easy to change the direction if you attempt to "torque" it as I think you're describing)
The problem you'll have with trying to use that Electric one will be in keeping it engaged in the screw head - not quite the same as a hex nut application. The manual hammer type actually is better in this application as the force is applied to keep the head engaged as well as rotational torque.

 

[Jay444]

D'Ecosse...yeah...I'm afraid that I might have it set the wrong way..but I'm not sure how to 'set' it...or check which 'setting' its on. it says that it is reversible...and I see L and R arrows on the part of the tool that compresses. I tried turning it but Im not sure what it is set to.

The guy at the parts store told me that I have to apply torque in the direction I want the fastner to turn...and then hit it. This is what I am doing...but I have'nt 'set' the tool in one direction or the other.

The set came with #2 & #3 Phillips...I tried both. If it means anything to anyone...I bought the Great Neck 5Pc Impact Driver Set from Autozone.

 

[Jay444]

Nevermind guys...I used my cordless impact wrench and it came off easily.

 

[Jay444]

Rotors don't fit properly...

So i tried putting on my PowerSlot slotted rotors yesterday.


The front rotors don't fit (center hole is too small). The rear ones fit on the hub, but rub on that 'shield' behind the hub.

Anyone else have these issues with PowerSlots? (700 PSR/PSL front, 701 PSR/PSL rear).

Is the rubbing issue a problem with my car?

 

[rae]

I used the paint caliper system about 3 years ago and my calipers still look awesome, I agree with Larry make sure you bleed the whole system, my Power slots fit and work fine, I would hesitate about vise gripping any parts :smile: , dont forget to buy new scews to hold the rotors on :wink: , I also purchased all new clips, retainers, and lines when I painted mine - what the heck ..., the speedbleeders work awesome - I have them on all my cars of course I have the Vacuum sucker to aid in the process.

Good luck and I have included some pics of my venture.

 

[Jeff A]

700's front and 701's rear fit properly for me. The hub diameters are different, the bigger one is in the front. Maybe you have them switched? Also, I suggest not replacing those 2 rotor screws. Leaving them off makes this job much easier next time - and rotors don't last real long, especially if you track the car. Are you planning on tracking the car, or is mostly for show?

 

[Jay444]

Stupid me!..I had the boxes switched. Thanks Jeff. Yes I do plan on tracking the car this year...hopefully at least a few times.

Brian...Looks like you did a really good job. I didn't buy the paint kit though..I just bought dupli-color caliper spray paint...and cleaned the calipers with brake cleaner and acetone.

 

[Jay444]

Re: caliper brackets...

How can you tell the difference between left/right caliper brakets?

I believe the numbers on the front brackets are the same. Are these interchangeable?

The rears are stamped with the numbers '4' & '5' (which one is left/right)?

 

[spartan2-3]

I used the paint caliper system about 3 years ago and my calipers still look awesome, I agree with Larry make sure you bleed the whole system, my Power slots fit and work fine, I would hesitate about vise gripping any parts :smile: , dont forget to buy new scews to hold the rotors on :wink: , I also purchased all new clips, retainers, and lines when I painted mine - what the heck ..., the speedbleeders work awesome - I have them on all my cars of course I have the Vacuum sucker to aid in the process.

Good luck and I have included some pics of my venture.

Brian, nice job painting the calipers. Did you paint the letterings "NSX" or is that sanded to bare metal?

RSF944, I recently upgraded to an NA2 brake set up and painted the calipers with similar paint you are using. I have a red car but painted mines black, the red paint doesnt seem to hold up as well (JMHO). I would remove the OEM heat shield for better cooling.

good luck

 

[spartan2-3]

Re: caliper brackets...

How can you tell the difference between left/right caliper brakets?

(which one is left/right)?

One would say "L" and the other "R", its engraved on the calipers, at least the NA2's does. I'll check my NA1's to see if its engraved.

 

[MJK]

Re: caliper brackets...

How can you tell the difference between left/right caliper brakets?

I believe the numbers on the front brackets are the same. Are these interchangeable?

The rears are stamped with the numbers '4' & '5' (which one is left/right)?

The bleeder valve needs to be at the top of the caliper's fluid pocket (to push the air out). They might also be stamped, but that is how I can tell.

 

[Jeff A]

He's asking about the brackets, not the caliper. :wink:

I looked at the service manual and also checked an online factory parts supplier. Neither helped, they apparently don't sell the bracket only, it's part of the caliper replacement kit. Need to wait for Spartan to look at an actual mounted bracket.