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I think torque specs take into account lubrication, one should not over-torque bolts by using lube. The biggest issue with torque is to make sure the torque spec is reached while the bolt is in motion. All surfaces have higher friction at rest(static) than when moving(dynamic) and the torque spec for bolts is for dynamic friction. If you go back and check a bolt you have torqued, it will always take more force to start it moving than it took to tighten it. For wheel lug nuts, I back them off 1/4 turn and re-torque them when ever I check them before a track day. I never install a bolt in my car with out lube or locktite, a lesson I learned from a mechanic when I was young, has served me well for many decades. I always do the anti-seize on spark plugs and anything dealing with the exhaust where temperatures are going to cause bolts to expand and contract, tending to make them seize.Glad the Heli-coil worked, the chips which end up in the cyclinder are soft aluminum, a good flushing will get 99% out, the rest should blow out as soon as you start the engine. I would flood the cylinder with oil before you start it to make sure any chips float loose the first time it is cranked.
I think torque specs take into account lubrication, one should not over-torque bolts by using lube. The biggest issue with torque is to make sure the torque spec is reached while the bolt is in motion. All surfaces have higher friction at rest(static) than when moving(dynamic) and the torque spec for bolts is for dynamic friction. If you go back and check a bolt you have torqued, it will always take more force to start it moving than it took to tighten it. For wheel lug nuts, I back them off 1/4 turn and re-torque them when ever I check them before a track day.
I never install a bolt in my car with out lube or locktite, a lesson I learned from a mechanic when I was young, has served me well for many decades. I always do the anti-seize on spark plugs and anything dealing with the exhaust where temperatures are going to cause bolts to expand and contract, tending to make them seize.
Glad the Heli-coil worked, the chips which end up in the cyclinder are soft aluminum, a good flushing will get 99% out, the rest should blow out as soon as you start the engine. I would flood the cylinder with oil before you start it to make sure any chips float loose the first time it is cranked.
