Bleeding brakes for track use?

Joined
28 October 2002
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462
Location
Atlanta, GA
I've been wondering something about bleeding brakes before track events.

It's common knowledge it needs to be done - brake fluid absorbs water from the air, and it's boiling point lowers, and when the brakes get hot, if it boils, your brakes get squishy. And so you need to bleed them regularly before track events.

My question is, how does the water get into the sealed brake system? It's not open to the air, right? At least down by the calipers - the reservoir obviously is not water tight, but the whole rest of the system is clearly liquid tight. How does the water get in?

And when you bleed it, you need to replace the fluid in the caliper, but do you need to replace the rest of it? If you do a normal "forward" bleed, from the reservoir down to the calipers, you need to completely flush the old fluid out, right? I use a turkey baster and empty the reservoir, fill it with fresh fluid, and then bleed it a goodly amount using speed bleeders. Is that what you guys do? I know there are reverse bleeder systems that push it up from the caliper, but those seem to need a large amount of fluid in them, and you'd have to replace all that every time, because it would absorb water in between track events too, right?
 
Every third track event or so, I flush the system with new fluid.
I use the Griot's brake bleeding pump (Speedbleeders are fine) and I remove most of the fluid from the brake reservior and put in new fluid. I switch between ATE Super Blue and Typ 200 (Gold). I bleed the Passenger rear until the fluid changes color, then the driver front. Then the driver rear and then the pass front.
 
Its NOT the water, it is the gas that is created when brake fluid boils off. It creates gas bubbles that CAN be compressed (spongy feel) Liquid cannot be compressed with the strength of our foot on a pedal.

In theory your brake lines could be filled up completely with water, and work just fine, but at a 212 degree boil off point, your brakes would get spongy fast, not to mention corrode!

Some water in your fluid will just lower the boil-off point, then if it was 100% brake fluid alone.
 
But the boiling point does drop with time, right? That's why you have to change it pretty regularly. If it's not water (which I heard it was - the fluid is hydroscopic), what causes it to degrade with time?

Just curious.
 
Jeff A said:
But the boiling point does drop with time, right? That's why you have to change it pretty regularly. If it's not water (which I heard it was - the fluid is hydroscopic), what causes it to degrade with time?
It IS moisture that causes the boiling point to drop over time.
 
DONYMO said:
Every third track event or so, I flush the system with new fluid.
I use the Griot's brake bleeding pump (Speedbleeders are fine) and I remove most of the fluid from the brake reservior and put in new fluid. I switch between ATE Super Blue and Typ 200 (Gold). I bleed the Passenger rear until the fluid changes color, then the driver front. Then the driver rear and then the pass front.


This sounds really good. Thanx Don. Shoulda asked my friends first!
 
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