Beware: Jh4na1184tt000419 salvaged, rollback miles, etc dealer is scammer!

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7 August 2006
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So this new one popped up on the market. Dealer told me someone traded the car in. They want 60k+ for it. I told them car was involved in multiple accidents, has salvaged title, and miles have been rolled back considerable amount. The dealer told me it was "clerical error". Obviously the dealer thought I was a moron but albeit I will pass this on incase anyone else is interested in the car.

http://chicagomotorcars2015.vinmanagersites.com/AutoDetails2.aspx?id=33198518
 
Thanks for the heads up!

Just wondering, how did you find out about the rollback, accidents and title issue? I don't see it on the carfax or previous posts here. However, my search was brief and just skimmed the previous threads.
 
Thanks for the heads up!

Just wondering, how did you find out about the rollback, accidents and title issue? I don't see it on the carfax or previous posts here. However, my search was brief and just skimmed the previous threads.

Try autocheck. Carfax skips a lot of stuff..

Whenever you do vin check, ALWAYS run both.
 
Gotcha, in my previous experience the two reports have been pretty close. But yeah, it seems its worth it to do both.

Thanks for the tip!
 
Some things in the ad dont add up either. Either the dealership has been misinformed or just blantently don't care. It's a 96 with a 6 speed shift knob? And looks like a comptech s/c as well, and all the stats are wrong. For the price that they are asking, you'd think they would put a little more care into the ad. Oh well.
 
If I may chime in here. I bought a used 91 salvaged title nsx. It needed serious care. That is why I bought it. It cried out to me. Since purchase I have done very extensive modifications to the car, which includes adding a supercharger less than 1 year ago. The motors in these cars are stout little beasts. I would only discard one salvaged if the engine got flood damaged or such. The motors on these cars are strong... But not strong enough to handle 500 hp. I would not hesitate buying another salvaged Nsx again after my own ownership. However, please note that they need love, care, and money.
Being that, 60,000 dollars for such a poor titled car is very unreasonable even if supercharged with all upgrades.
Lastly, use caution. No matter which condition you purchase a Nsx in, once you drive one, that is all she wrote. It grabs onto you. It forces you to drive it. No talking on phones, no fumbling through Facebook posts on the navi, just you, the car, and the road...
 
That is one absolutely hideous car.. And a 60K+ asking price??
 
I love the comment about the supermodel with 1 (or several more than 1) too many plastic surgeries. Very on point, unlike the comment that it might be the only Orange NSX.
 
I thought BAT was more selective...lol
 
Someone spent a ton on that interior. BAT wouldn’t let my brother list his RS6 but would take that lol.
 
I thought about buying this car and return it back to an NSX and repaint. I did some research on this car and both carfax and autocheck didn’t come back as a salvage car. I do believe the auction place marked it as unibody damage due to the extensive rear quarter panels/ taillight area which is shown on autocheck. The problem with me is the unknown maintenance history and how many thousands to sink to make this car right again
 
I thought about buying this car and return it back to an NSX and repaint. I did some research on this car and both carfax and autocheck didn’t come back as a salvage car. I do believe the auction place marked it as unibody damage due to the extensive rear quarter panels/ taillight area which is shown on autocheck. The problem with me is the unknown maintenance history and how many thousands to sink to make this car right again
It's a risk. If there is damage to the unibody, you have to cut the damaged section out and weld a new/donor section per the method described in the NSX body repair manual. Nobody does that because it is like $20,000+ to do it right, depending on the section that needs replacing. Instead, they do a cheapo cut and paste job with a seam weld, which turns the car into a death trap. But it cleans up nice and looks good on BaT...

The only way you can know is to pull the exterior body panels off and inspect the frame.
 
It's a risk. If there is damage to the unibody, you have to cut the damaged section out and weld a new/donor section per the method described in the NSX body repair manual. Nobody does that because it is like $20,000+ to do it right, depending on the section that needs replacing. Instead, they do a cheapo cut and paste job with a seam weld, which turns the car into a death trap. But it cleans up nice and looks good on BaT...

The only way you can know is to pull the exterior body panels off and inspect the frame.
I agree, it’s a big risk without pulling the rear bumper, lights and quarter panels off
 
I’m desperate to get my hands on a cheap NSX, with that said I would run as far away from this car as I can. It’s going to be money pit to restore.
 
I’m desperate to get my hands on a cheap NSX, with that said I would run as far away from this car as I can. It’s going to be money pit to restore.
I'm like Mark Worman on Graveyeard Carz- I see cars like this and I feel like...I can save it. LOL

It all comes down to a math problem. Before you buy it, you need to price out what you would have to do and then see if it makes sense. A properly documented OEM-quality repair can actually add value back to a car, but you have to follow Honda's method, which is labor intensive. (drill out all the spot welds, cut the proper section, etc.) Most shops won't do it. For my 92, I did all the math with my project goal and budget in mind and came up with $25k as my max. I scooped up my AT car for $21k.

With this car, the first decision would be is it going to be my forever NSX or will I probably sell it someday? If it's the former, then depending on the price I would move forward. If the latter, probably not unless I'm willing to take a loss.

If I move forward, then it would be a process of defining my project goal (restore to OEM, convert to S or R, resto mod, track car, etc.), setting a budget and then pricing out what I think it would take. In this car's case, assuming an OEM-style refresh, I'd look at:
  • Replacement of a major rear structural member (trunk panel, rear frame rails, etc.). This means sourcing a donor section consistent with what the Honda repair manual specifies, i.e., not just a "rear clip" like you always see. Then finding a shop that can repair it based on the Honda method. I think total cost here would be $10k-$20k. It would mean a complete teardown of the car to the bare chassis and measuring the control points to see what needs to be replaced.
  • Repaint body to original color or color change. This means sourcing OEM body panels to replace the hideous aftermarket junk on there and prep/paint. If you do a color change, you'll also have to paint the chassis. Again, $10k-20k.
  • Restore or replace mechanical components. $5k-$10k.
  • Restore interior. $5k-$10k. Parts are getting harder to find these days, though you could re-cover all of the interior parts with OEM-matching vinyl instead of trying to buy used ones.
  • Engine refresh. $2k if you DIY. $5k if you pay someone. This car is supercharged, which means the engine was likely slammed and abused constantly and has had a hard life.
  • Add a "cushion" of $10k to cover things you discover on teardown or things you didn't anticipate.
Thus, on the low end, my back of the napkin math says you're looking at $42,000 and a high end of $75,000 to get this NSX back to respectability. It will take years of work but at the end you'll have a NSX that will be gorgeous, structurally sound and likely will fetch reasonable money if you have to sell it. Looking at the market tool, a 1996 NSX-T with 67,000 miles currently fetches around $90,000 on average. The math tells us, on the low end, you should pay no more than $48,000 and assuming the high end you should pay no more than $15,000.

Given what a train wreck this car is, I'd probably say the actual cost would trend closer to the high end, meaning I'd try to pick it up for $20k to $25k max. You'd be in for a multi-year project. You could approach the seller with $20k in cash in hand and say I'll take this turd of a car off your hands AS-IS no questions asked.

The primary key for me more than anything for a car like this is finding a body shop that I trust and that will be willing to work on a project like this.
 
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