Balancing Brake Rotors

[RYU]

Anyone know where? Hopefully a place here in SoCal.

 

[dustthisnsx]

Anyone know where? Hopefully a place here in SoCal.

AS much as I hate to say it but you might want to contact STILLEN. They are heavy into ap racing and may be able to lend a contact.

 

[RYU]

AS much as I hate to say it but you might want to contact STILLEN. They are heavy into ap racing and may be able to lend a contact.

Ah! Thank you. I know the perfect person to contact there :wink:

 

[dquarasr2]

This is not a contentious post, but a serious question: why?

(I've never heard of the need for it, but then again I've used only OEM or OEM-equivalent "stock" one-piece rotors. Hoping to learn something . . . .)

 

[RYU]

This is not a contentious post, but a serious question: why?

(I've never heard of the need for it, but then again I've used only OEM or OEM-equivalent "stock" one-piece rotors. Hoping to learn something . . . .)

The brake rotor is just like any other rotating mass on the car. Whenever it's out of balance it creates vibration resonances. When you get into the bigger ring-on-hub style rotors on a BBK kit then the problem is aggravated. I've never noticed this problem with factory one-piece rotors and don't even notice it with my 13" & 14" rotors at street/hwy speeds. It's when the car goes 90+mph the vibration becomes noticeable and it only gets worse. Couple that with my anal personality...hence my post.

Also any normal wear on the rotors can potentially cause them to go out of balance (i.e. hard track days, bad heat cycles, aggressive pads, rotor resurface, etc). A ring change also requires a rebalance - well you should rebalance. Most quality BBK kits out there come balanced from the factory. If you look at one closely, some material are shaved off on the inner vane section of the rotor. That's material taken off to balance the rotor.

If someone else out there with real racing experience can chime in that would be great

0.02 pesos