Bad Ignition Switch?

[Hugh]

Charlotte actually has a problem! I'm in shock.

Here are the symptoms:

A couple of days ago when hitting a bump, I noticed the speedo and tach needles got erratic for a second or two. No problems afterwards.

Earlier this evening, when turning the key to the ignition stop, the instrument cluster was still dark. When cranking the car, the cluster would light up and she would start but releasing the key left the cluster dark and the car immediately died.

If I jiggle the key between ignition and start, the cluster would stay lit and she would start and continue running. If I give the knee bolster under the steering wheel a good whack, the needles jump and one of the illumination lamps flickers.

Electrical connections at battery and chassis ground look good and tight. Headlights and horn work fine as well.

I'm guessing it is a bad ignition switch or possibly a bad connection to the instrument cluster at one or both of the green connectors behind the knee bolster.

Any suggestions before I start taking things apart?

It has been raining buckets here and the humidity has been ridiculous if that is any consideration. And yes, I drive the car come hell or high water.

Thanks!

 

[SweetChuck]

Wow that was freaky , I just opened your post as I was listening to number of the beast !

Unplug your ECU connector and plug it in and out a few times , can be prone to oxidization , just a thought .

 

[heySkippy]

I had to have my ignition switch (or some piece of it) replaced last week. My car would occasionally shut off immediately after starting, but it was quite intermittent. My mechanic said it was the switch and when I had it in for oil last week, he called me and said it had become dramatically worse while they had it, so it was replaced. He says it's a not-uncommon problem with Hondas.

Cost about $200. I don't know exactly what part was replaced.

 

[spider2k]

get under the dash and check where the main ignition harness bolts into the switch. when i was installing my alarm i noticed that the 2 screws that hold the harness in place were actually loose! it may not be the issue but it beats replacing the entire switch.

 

[DocL]

Stop eating Beef Jerky and farting in your car, you're killing it!

 

[drew]

Near classis issues with the ignition switch. You can try cleaning it...i've got a post on it somewhere.

drew

 

[Hugh]

Stop eating Beef Jerky and farting in your car, you're killing it!

Kill this! My car has 214,000+ plus miles on it and will suck the motor out of yours. :biggrin:

By the way, I eat Emu beef jerky so my farts have a very low carbon buttprint.

 

[Hugh]

Is the part that needs cleaning number 11?
Seems like it's better to replace it on a 15 year old car with over 200K miles no?

Drew, can you post a link to your cleaning post please?

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Replace it, call us in 15 years or 428K miles, whichever comes first

And yes it is #11

Regards,
LarryB

 

[Hugh]

Replace it, call us in 15 years or 428K miles, whichever comes first

It will definitely be 428K miles. I first met Charlotte in November 2003 with 70K miles on her clock. Obviously I keep her busier than a Bangkok hooker during fleet week. :biggrin:

New iggy switch arriving in the morning btw.

 

[Hugh]

Replaced switch. All is good. Old one was well worn inside and had a fair share of carbon build up.

A "field" work around would be using a Dremel to drill a teeny hole in the side of the white plastic housing and blast the thing with contact cleaner using one of those little red plastic straws.

 

[4AU4LIFE]

He says it's a not-uncommon problem with Hondas.

Totally agree.
My 150k mile Integra began cutting off intermittingly.
Went to local Acura dealer that I deal with quite often and explained the problem to them. One of the techs that I have known for quite a while didn't hesitate to say it is the switch.
He was right and it was a very simple fix for me to do myself.