Anyone with door panels off currently?

[sylcurt]

Hi gang,

I took off my inner door panels off about a month ago to get the window regulator out to be sent away for repair (both sides) It came out pretty easy, and because of it, I didn't think much of it...however, I just got them back and want to re-install them, and now I can recall where the part with the motor bolts back in?? There doesn't appear to be a logical choice of mounting points, given that the flexible cables can kind of go wherever... (how bad is that???)

I have the pages from the service manual, but it is just a general drawing of the door and doesn't really detail which holes/bolts I need to use...I feel like such an idiot ....normally I take some pics to refer to when re-assembling, but in this case, I didn't...

Does anyone have their inner panels and vapour barrier off currently? If so, could you snap a pic and post so I have it for reference.....Thanks very much,


signed...(embarrassed)

Curtis

 

[ofdlt10]

hi curtis,
nothing to be embarrassed about. i'm currently repairing my regulators for a second time in 6 months. one of the stainless cables broke. i still have the interior panel off. i'll take some pics and send them within the hour.
once you have the unit inside the door, you'll see that there's only one way for it to fit. the bolt pattern is very specific.
i'll send it within the next hour or so.

cheers,
rog

 

[ofdlt10]

hi curtis,
send me your email address. i tried sending them on prime but it says a security token is missing. it did this the last time i tried to send photos.
as soon as i get your email address, i'll send the photos.

regards,
rog

 

[ofdlt10]

curtis,
in the meantime, if you place all five bolts in the regulator and thread them about halfway in, it makes it easier to install. the photos i took are of the driver's door. place the entire unit inside the door panel with the motor to the rear of the door and the slide to the front.
line up the two bolts on the front and they fall right into the holes.
place the motor assembly to the rear and line up the three bolts with the holes and they only fit one way. hand tighten them and check the black and gray cable housings to see that they only crossed each other once.
tighten the bolts and hook up the window controls. with the control button, line up the window assembly (the one with two holes that holds the window) with the access holes in the door. it will be approximately half-way down.
this way, you can tighten the bolts to the window with your ratchet.
it's easier to do this with two people. one to hold the window in place while you line up the bolts.
with these tightened, you're finished.
repeat this on the passenger's side and your finished.
hope this helped.

best regards,
rog

 

[drew]

i'm currently repairing my regulators for a second time in 6 months. one of the stainless cables broke.

One of the cylinder shaped terminators pulled out of my cable.

How did you repair your broken cable?

Drew

 

[ofdlt10]

take the entire assembly to a cable fabricator. they'll clamp stainless caps on the ends and grind them down to fit in the nylon housings. they have to be routed through all the pulleys and shrouds before the ends are pressed on.
the press uses tons of force, not pounds like the large hand crimpers you would normally use. the window motors exert a lot of force on the cable, and any other connection will just pull off.
if your cables are deformed, just have them make new ones measured exactly to length to match your old ones.
also, have him use calipers to measure the cables, otherwise they won't fit in the grooves of the nylon pulley. i think they're 3/32. the charge here in orlando for the cables, ends and labor was $50.

rog

 

[shawn110975]

or hit the junk yard the plugs are the same on a 1993 Accord. trust me.

 

[drew]

Can you post the company that you used?

It seems all the useful industry has left Los Angeles.

Drew

 

[drew]

Shawn

the plugs are the same on a 1993 Accord. trust me.

Do you mean that the cables are the same length?

Is the entire regulator interchangeable?

It would be nice to R&R out the tired motors from the NSX from a passenger regulator from another vehicle.

Drew

 

[ofdlt10]

it's true that the motors and and internals are the same from the accord to the nsx.
you have to remember (thanks hugo) that the passenger's side motor and gears from the accord fit the driver's side on the nsx and the driver's side accord fit the passenger's side of the nsx. this is due to the motors facing opposite directions and the gears inside are reversed.
the cable lengths are different also.
i purchased my accord regulators from ebay for $15 plus shipping. they came from a 1993 model.
i'm trying to send the pics to you now.

regards,
rog

 

[sylcurt]

i'm trying to send the pics to you now.

regards,
rog[/QUOTE]

Thanks very much for the pics...they helped and I got the regulators in today and everything cleaned up (old grease) and put new lithium grease.

It turns out that what was confusing me was that when I took out the regulators, the windows were in the fully "up" position and glass taped up....however, when they came back from having the Huggabugga pulley repair done....they were in the fully "down" position...meaning that I was try to fit them in and look for mounting holes with the entire unit upside down. Once I saw this from the pictures, I was able to add power to molex connector and get them to slide all the way to the other end...then there was the big "ah -ha" and got them installed no problem.

Thanks so much everyone for the PM's of support....

I am now proceeding to finish up the dynamatting of the door skin, and will be installing my new speakers over the next while... (Focals)

Curtis

 

[angus]

^^^Sorry I guess I should have left them in the "up" position, I just left them wherever they ended up after reassembly and testing (I always power up and go up and down a bunch to make sure there are no issues)

How do they work?

 

[sylcurt]

LOL - I can't beleive I was confused by that....never even though of that until I saw a picture, then went "no way"...I feel like a real moron!

Seem to work very well. Mine were not too bad in terms of speed previously, I guess because the car still has petty low mileage = less times the windows have been used....

Going down is very fast....going up is definitely faster than before also...but its the smoothness...no clicking and clunking....just a smooth "hum" as they go up or down....

I greased the rails and tracks up really well also, after cleaning out all the former old grease (was quite brown and dried up...probably adding friction than lubricant)

I didn't get a chance to install the box yet, but hopefully this week....do you have a tip on the best way to cut away those brackets from the OEM sub?....a small grinder and cutting wheel?
Also, in some of the threads, it talks about cutting away the plastic trim under the glove box to allow for mounting of that module that needs to be moved...is this a "need to do process"...or just one option....I hate cutting anything that is factory...but if it needs to be done, so be it...

for anyone looking for a sub box, the Angus box is extremely well constructed and very professional in appearance....I have made my own fibreglass boxes for years, but just didn't have the time to make the molds and templates ...so bought the Angus box....I was very impressed with the quality.....I'll post some pics in the electroncis thread as I get going on my stereo upgrade.

Thanks again Wil....

Curtis