Any power sources located under glove box?

[ANYTIME]

I am in the process of installing a clube radio like this

http://www.icom.net.au/2000_web/products/amateur/207h.htm

I found a nice place to mount this radio under the glovebox to the tray that holds the keyless entry. Does anyone know of a keyed power source located close to this area? If not keyed, how about constant power? I was not wanting to go all the way across to the fusebox if I don't have to and keep it simple and have everything relatively in close proximity.
Thanks,
John

 

[nsxxtreme]

What did it cost and where are you putting the antenna?

 

[JoeSchmoe]

I dont know if this is close enough, but you can try stealing power off the cigarette lighter. Its 1/2 as far away as the driver's side fuse box and good for ~15A. Its also keyed. You can probably just run a wire through the back of the central console, exit out the right side under the dash and then to the glove box.

Another option would be to find the existing hole through the passenger side firewall to connect to the front fuse box. Its about a foot beyond the other side of the firewall and you should be able to slip an extra wire or two alongside the existing wire harness. You might be able to utilize some of the unused fuse slots as well in that box.

 

[The DON]

I was told by my alarm installer that there is some sort of a socket for wiring up accessories and alarm systems behind the glove box.

 

[ANYTIME]

What did it cost and where are you putting the antenna?

The radios are about 225-240 range, but I made a trade with a friend for some NSX parts. The remotely mountable faceplate is going to be mounted in the glovebox, on the recessed area(as you open the glovebox, it would be the top left area) The antenna placement(haven't decided yet) will be mounted either on the center of the back window or the center of the front window. It's about 10" long and looks like this>

 

[Hugh]

If not keyed, how about constant power?

The feed to the sub/amp box in the footwell should work. It's on the same circuit as the radio power. The schematic has the power wires as Yellow/Red for +12v and Black for ground.

 

[D'Ecosse]

The feed to the sub/amp box in the footwell should work. It's on the same circuit as the radio power. The schematic has the power wires as Yellow/Red for +12v and Black for ground.

The problem with that supply is the radio has to be switched on for power to be on that feed - hardly ideal.

Your trunk isolation switch is the perfect source John - it's right there in your glove-box already! Just make sure you pick up the correct side of the switch, which shoud be the orange wire. You can alternatively pick this up at the power door lock control module if you remove the glove box.

Be careful - that wire is "HOT" at constant battery power - disconnect the battery, or easier remove fuse 35 from the main fuse box, before making a connection splice to that wire.

.

 

[Hugh]

The problem with that supply is the radio has to be switched on for power to be on that feed - hardly ideal.

Good point Ken. I incorrectly believed the feed was wired to the ACC circuit and not the radio's trigger circuit. However this circuit will guarantee that the Ham radio is off when the car isn't being used.

 

[drew]

Slight Hijack:

I need to find a power source for my SmartMap, near the ECU. Are there any good sources nearby?

Should I just run a wire to the same glove box area?

Thanks

Drew

 

[D'Ecosse]

....I need to find a power source for my SmartMap, near the ECU. Are there any good sources nearby?

Don't think anyone will mind the hijack - original request was a month ago & I'm sure John has figured out something before now anyway. (Sorry I didn't see it originally!)

For your requirement, at the Main Relay, you have the choice of battery power (yel/blu) on pin 1 or ignition (blk/yel) on pin 5. The main relay is to the right of the ECM as you look at it from inside the car towards the rear.

 

[drew]

Thanks D'Ecosse.

BTW: Are you clipping and splicing wires?

Drew

 

[D'Ecosse]

Thanks D'Ecosse.

BTW: Are you clipping and splicing wires?

Drew

Depends on how much current it's drawing really - for power ideally a solder solution would be best. You can use a tap splice which is pretty clean & simple to use however & generally quite reliable - doesn't involve cutting your original wire either.

 

[Newman]

When I had my glovebox pulled out a couple of weeks ago, I was also looking for a constant 12V source. Well there was a (from what I could recall) a brown plug that was going nowhere, and tapped from the factory up against some ducting, above the ALB box. I believe it was a 8 or 10 pin plug, but rather small. Most likely it was for a computer box of some sort that my car obviously didn't have, but the orange wire on it was a constant 12V source. Since it was a dedicated source, and since all I needed was a low output source just for the memory on my DVD player, that worked out perfectly. Originally, I was just going to run a line from the fuse panel, but I came across that plug and checked it out with the multimeter (I didn't want to splice into any existing plugs that were being used).

 

[drew]

As you might have guessed: I'm loathe to cut critical harnesses. Really can cause diagnosis problems...

NSXTech informed me that I can use the ECU power source for the SmartMap. Since I have an ECU extension harness on order from SoS (two week ship time!) which means I could have a whole PnP component.

Drew

 

[D'Ecosse]

NSXTech informed me that I can use the ECU power source for the SmartMap. Since I have an ECU extension harness on order from SoS (two week ship time!) which means I could have a whole PnP component.

Drew

The ECU power source comes from the main relay ..........

 

[drew]

The ECU power source comes from the main relay ..........

Even better. (That would also explain why having fuel pressure and a bad Main Relay still causes a no start.)

My point was that I could do +all+ of my clipping, cutting and soldering with my ECU extension harness...and not touch any part of the stock harness to get the job done.

It would also make a it a lot easier to do all this on the bench too.

Appreciate the tips,

Drew