1995 NSX - T with 17k miles. I start it not often enough. Keep seafoam and stabil in the gas and the tank above 3/4. It recently started giving random misfire codes. It runs rough in idle. Rougher under load in gear, then smooths out as the rpm increases. First it was cylinders 1, 3, and 4. I switched all the coil packs around and now get only cylinder 3. I am waiting for the new spark plugs and willbe getting the injectors cleaned / rebuilt when I get around to pulling them. Other than replacing the fuel filter, what else might I consider?
Another random misfire thread
- Thread starter DrScott
- Start date
check your fuel pressure. super easy, buy a gauge kit and it will replace the factory fuel filter bolt. a quick search will get you going on this. good luck
The fact that you switched coil packs around and the problem decreased is a hint. Did you simply switch packs around, or did you exchange some of the packs with new(er) or known good ones?
Has the car been stored in a garage or outside? 17k mi is very low for coil packs to fail unless moisture or temperature are factors. Look carefully at the top of each plug for signs of corrosion (usually green in color). Do you have radio noise (popping in sync with the engine speed)at idle? Just pulling the coil pack on & off can disturb corrosion enough to make things work a little better.
Try this for cylinder 3, if its still the only one with a problem. Pull the coil pack and look at the top of the spark plug (the electrical contact with the coil pack) for any signs of green. Clean the contact with sandpaper, copper pot cleaner, etc -whatever is handy. Then, take a pencil with an eraser on it, put the eraser down into the coil pack rubber tube and rotate it in the pack's electrical contact. Reinstall the pack. If the problem is gone, its time to replace the coil packs as well as the spark plugs.
As far as the health of that rubber insulator tube on the coil pack, Larry B's trick is to take the plug and coil pack in hand, insert the plug into the pack. The plug should not fall out of the tube. (Did I get that right Larry?)
Has the car been stored in a garage or outside? 17k mi is very low for coil packs to fail unless moisture or temperature are factors. Look carefully at the top of each plug for signs of corrosion (usually green in color). Do you have radio noise (popping in sync with the engine speed)at idle? Just pulling the coil pack on & off can disturb corrosion enough to make things work a little better.
Try this for cylinder 3, if its still the only one with a problem. Pull the coil pack and look at the top of the spark plug (the electrical contact with the coil pack) for any signs of green. Clean the contact with sandpaper, copper pot cleaner, etc -whatever is handy. Then, take a pencil with an eraser on it, put the eraser down into the coil pack rubber tube and rotate it in the pack's electrical contact. Reinstall the pack. If the problem is gone, its time to replace the coil packs as well as the spark plugs.
As far as the health of that rubber insulator tube on the coil pack, Larry B's trick is to take the plug and coil pack in hand, insert the plug into the pack. The plug should not fall out of the tube. (Did I get that right Larry?)
I switched packs around. At $138 each list I will buy them if I need to.
Switched 1 and 6, 4 and 5, 2 and 3. I did that because it is free and can focus attention on more likely candidates. I cleaned the contacts of the coils and, while I did not do the Larry Test, I did note noticeable suction on the packs when removing them. I labeled them as I pulled them so I know where they started. I also inspected the contact on each coil. They all looked good. I did use electrical contact cleaner and a pencil eraser anyway. No copper cleaner. Did not inspect the top of the plugs yet.
Fuel pressure is 53 with vacuum hose to FPR off and 44 with the vacuum hose on..... Per the manual.
Oh. This car has not seen rain and is always garaged with a battery tender.
No radio noise at all.
Since my new plugs arrived today I will replace them and re-clean the packs before I pull the injectors.
Thank you for the help and guidance!!!!
Switched 1 and 6, 4 and 5, 2 and 3. I did that because it is free and can focus attention on more likely candidates. I cleaned the contacts of the coils and, while I did not do the Larry Test, I did note noticeable suction on the packs when removing them. I labeled them as I pulled them so I know where they started. I also inspected the contact on each coil. They all looked good. I did use electrical contact cleaner and a pencil eraser anyway. No copper cleaner. Did not inspect the top of the plugs yet.
Fuel pressure is 53 with vacuum hose to FPR off and 44 with the vacuum hose on..... Per the manual.
Oh. This car has not seen rain and is always garaged with a battery tender.
No radio noise at all.
Since my new plugs arrived today I will replace them and re-clean the packs before I pull the injectors.
Thank you for the help and guidance!!!!
$45 aftermarket coil packs here http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Co...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a97afcb49&vxp=mtr
A note on coil pack prices. I got some from Rock Auto with various names on them at "manufacturers closeout prices". They all had the exact same casting marks etc as the OEM. The only difference was the stamped manufacturing date. The NSX is a low production volume car. So, no one else wants to make unique parts. They just secure them from the OEM supplier to Honda/Acura and rebrand them. I got coil packs (Borg Warner and Airtek/Wells on the box) for $41 to $48 that way and they are all OEM.
Also, note you can buy 6 coil packs as a kit for a very low price (approx $250), part number 06300-PR7-305
Also, note you can buy 6 coil packs as a kit for a very low price (approx $250), part number 06300-PR7-305
Wait this is a 1995. You can get a whole set of coils pretty cheap. Go Here:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...codes-Dealer-wants-1230-00?highlight=coil+pak
Post #8
Opps did not realize Frank posted that already.
Regards,
LarryB
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...codes-Dealer-wants-1230-00?highlight=coil+pak
Post #8
Opps did not realize Frank posted that already.
Regards,
LarryB
Last edited:
I also got my brake master, clutch master and clutch slave from Rock Auto at far below dealer prices. Same thing - identical castings, new, not rebuilt, name brands (Wagner, Beck-Arnley, etc). Only the mfg date on the casting was different.
i didn't catch that. the link i posted is for 91-94, sorry
Just to Clarify, is there a kit specifically for the 91? or are all kits 95+?
The "kit" is for 1995+ (three pin coils) For 1991-94 you need to buy them separately(ouch$$$).
Regards,
LarryB
Yah, that's what I was worried about. I have one coil that is oxidized quite bad and that plug looks about the same. I was just going to replace all 6 at the same time, but for the price of eachI may just pick up that one that looks bad.
- Joined
- 17 December 2014
- Messages
- 217
Are aftermarket packs like these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Coi...afcb49&vxp=mtr okay? or is only oem the way to go?
Or better yet, how many people are running aftermarket coil packs? how are they working?
Or better yet, how many people are running aftermarket coil packs? how are they working?
Last edited:
Glad to see this.
I have a low rpm rumble (vibration) and started throwing money at it. Replaced injectors, plugs. Going to replace the O2 sensors soon. Have not even thought about the coil packs. Though, that seems like a good idea.
I have a low rpm rumble (vibration) and started throwing money at it. Replaced injectors, plugs. Going to replace the O2 sensors soon. Have not even thought about the coil packs. Though, that seems like a good idea.
Similar threads
