Aluminium and salt

Joined
23 October 2001
Messages
3,888
Location
Zürich, Switzerland
Hello,
I've spent quite a lot speaking with some nsx-friend over the weekend about driving the nsx on the salty roads we have here at the moment... since none of us is a material engineer we were wondering if somebody (what a stupid question? for sure in nsxprime there is a scientist!
biggrin.gif
) can explain me the advantage of aluminium vs steel in salt protection. Additionally, does water/wet streets make the salt action worse than on the car than dry pavement?
confused.gif


[This message has been edited by gheba_nsx (edited 21 January 2002).]
 
I'm not an expert either, but I think it's a good question. I know aluminum won't rust, but will the salt have any other reaction to it?

------------------
'00 Candy Apple Blue / Black, #264
 
Actually gentlemen, Aluminum DOES rust in a sense. Oxide (Better know as rust) is created by a mix of Oxygen, and moisture in the air combined with some heat. Aluminum does indeed oxidize, but doesn't show the same effects as say Iron. Aluminum will turn into a white powdery substance as it oxidizes, it just doesnt do it nearly as quickly or as visibly as steel bodied cars do. The Salt is still bad for your car anyway so wash them cars ASAP!!
 
I had two identical '94 Honda superbikes, one which had 12K miles in NY, the other had 2K miles in FL. The NY bike was in sooo much better shape. The salt and humidity ate away at the FL bike. Worst corrosion was on the anodized nuts and bolts, all rusted solid. The aluminum frame and bolts were fine, but the hose clamps, aluminum PGM-F1 housing, rotors, chain, and chrome were pitted. The dry salt isn't as bad, but you should pressure wash your car each spring and get all that sodium dust out. You never know what other chemicals are being used. Here in the US, it is mixed with calcium chloride to improve low-temperature performance on highways.
 
I disagree that there is no advantage. Aluminum certainly oxidizes, but it is not the same as iron oxidation (rust) in that it does not quickly eat through the metal.
 
Aluminum is far better than steel for many reasons. I have run saltfog tests on aluminum housings for the microwave amplifiers I design (some are for maritime use). First, aluminum oxidizes in air very quickly. But unlike iron oxide, which flakes away material, aluminum oxide is a hard ceramic material Al2O3. It doesn't flake away and it actually works as a barrier to further corrosion. Machinable aluminum (like 6061) survives salt fog testing with no evidence of corrosion. Until you form a bimetal interface, which then will support galvanic corrosion. Then depending on what the other metal is and it's oxidation number, either the aluminum near the metal or the other metal can corrode in the presence of moisture. For instance, a scratch in nickel plated aluminum when exposed to salt fog will have the aluminum eat away where it is exposed. So everywhere a steel bolt contacts the aluminum, there is the potential for corrosion to take place. But still, compared to an all steel body, the NSX aluminum parts will last far longer. Your car should never suffer the rusting through holes that you see on steel cars before your great grandchildren die. I believe Honda does coat it's steel bolts to hinder the galvanic corrosion as well. But it still is a good idea to wash salt water off your car when you know it has been subjected to it.
 
In the distant past, when untreated rocker panels collected dirt and moisture, it resulted in massive steel cancer. We could have rust in the door bottoms, behind the bracing under the hood or trunk, and any place where panels were crimped/welded together. Nowadays, we are just advised to keep the drain holes unobstructed, in the rocker panels, as well as the door bottoms, as steel bodies have zinc galvanizing in the rust-prone areas.

The NSX lower body is AH-PO aluminum, which is corrosion resistant, so we can reasonably assume that it will take some neglect to spawn an outbreak of corrosion. But, just as in a steel-bodied automobile, when you do your major salt removal washing, it might just be advisable to pay attention to semi-sealed areas where dirt and salty moisture can get in, but not easily back out. These areas are behind the side sill panel, the fender liners, and the front and rear bumper assemblies. I have not researched nor tried to wash these areas myself as of yet, and it may require some contortions or partial disassembly. You have to decide if it is worth the trouble. Unless you have substantial deposits of salt, it may be more of a 'feel good' situation than anything else, that your 'out of sight' areas are as clean as the ones everyone sees. Personally, I am the kind of guy who cleans the dust out of unseen areas that I expose while working on an electrical problem, so I understand the 'feel good' aspect of hidden cleanliness. Yes,I would definitely advise massive amounts of moderate to high (being very careful) pressure water under the car, and not just in the spring, but above freezing temperatures until dry, of course. There is also an area at the front sides of the drain channel near the trunk lid hinge area that is prone to collect trash, and could harbor salt.

Happy cleaning,

Bill
 
Back
Top