After A CTSC what is the next BIG step?

There's pretty much a limited amount of things you can do after the CTSC. Everybody's throwing individual mods out there but I'll try to condense them all:

-More driving school :wink:

-High boost pulley w/ AEM

-Cams

-Valves/springs

-Big-bore TB

-Intake manifold bore

-Larger fuel injectors

-Walbro fuel pump

-Hi-flow cats

-Oil pump gear

-Accusump

-Oil cooler/tranny cooler

-Tranny (short gears or 6-speed, final drive, LSD)

-Clutch

-Short shift block

-Suspension/chassis bars/sways (Type-R)

-BBK

-Type-R rear diffuser and wing (both increase downforce)

-Race radiator

-Race battery

-High-performance tires

Maybe another few mods which benefit CTSC NSX performance but this is a pretty complete list of all of the common, effective mods.
 
Steven Allen said:
I was told that my current performance package was likely @ 400HP - who really knows???

What is a:

"High boost with AEM EMS ~400rwhp"

Would a turbo pass CA smog?
Click to expand...

Any turbo kit made for the Nsx will not be CARB legal and cannot pass smog. I dont care if anyone else is telling you otherwise.

If you have the AEM EMS and your installer has tuned your ECU conservatively. Perhaps your next step is get a high boost setup for your Comptech roots type supercharger by going with a smaller pulley (SOS) and tune the ECU non-conservatively.

Or you can build the top end of your engine by port and polishing the head, change your valve retainers, valves, valve springs, bigger throttle body, put in new head bolts, and dump a bit more fuel with a little higher cc on the fuel injectors. :cool:

Do just about everything on the top end except for the camshafts and cam gears and you will notice a significant flow to the Comptech supercharger and adding more power than you would have thought. :wink:

My free advice to you, :biggrin: :biggrin:

-Andy
 
Nsxboy3 said:
Any turbo kit made for the Nsx will not be CARB legal and cannot pass smog. I dont care if anyone else is telling you otherwise.

If you have the AEM EMS and your installer has tuned your ECU conservatively. Perhaps your next step is get a high boost setup for your Comptech roots type supercharger by going with a smaller pulley (SOS) and tune the ECU non-conservatively.

Or you can build the top end of your engine by port and polishing the head, change your valve retainers, valves, valve springs, bigger throttle body, put in new head bolts, and dump a bit more fuel with a little higher cc on the fuel injectors. :cool:

Do just about everything on the top end except for the camshafts and cam gears and you will notice a significant flow to the Comptech supercharger and adding more power than you would have thought. :wink:

My free advice to you, :biggrin: :biggrin:

-Andy
Click to expand...

Good points, although most simply take their chances at the smog shop hoping the smog guy fails to verify CARB legality. It seems to be getting more and more common these days...:rolleyes:

A conservatively tuned AEM on any legit turbo setup should pass smog but the smog guy is supposed to ask for the CARB sticker once aftermarket parts are noticed. Not being CA CARB legal has nothing to do with passing the emissions requirements per se.

And yes, doing some top end engine work will certainly improve efficiency and power. Valves, springs, BBTB and IM are essentially the SOS Stage 3. The SOS Stage 3 cams are designed for NA engines but I do believe they sell Stage 3 cams for FI as well.

The SOS Stage 3 package w/ appropriate cams and a high-boost CTSC with an aggressively tuned AEM should easily be able to generate 425 whp and probably closer to 450 whp which is massive for a street driven NSX. There are very few cars on the road putting down more hp than that and certainly none that I can think of under $275,000.
 
smhrednsx91 said:
You’ve got the power and your car looks good. I’d love to get a real type R but I would not want a fake so IMO I would not go cosmetics right now. In order:
Click to expand...
What does that have anything to do with this. Depending on how I interpret this. It can meant either one of this:

1-backed handed comment or display of jealousy, bitterness towards something you wish to have, but can't have or too cheap to spend money.

or

2- Meant no harm, just didn't think when posting.

NSX is a NSX, people put on body kits. NSX-R items are not just for show, it is acutally functional. Items that helps performance and drop weight at same time. For people who like the look, it is like hitting two birds with 1 stone.

http://world.honda.com/NSX/technology/t3.html
t3_03.gif


I can see it is fake if someone present it and try to fool someone as a genuine NSX-R and put on a bunch of NSX-R batch or emblems (R=stand for replica in this case), which it is not. Otherwise it is nothing more than NSX with aero and performance upgrades.

Steven Allen said:
The seller said the following about the wheels in this forum:

Here's a link to the wheels. To correctly refinish these requires a proprietary 10 point tool made of unobtainium.
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/...jsp?techid=145
They are forged. lightweight, and over $800 each. (Superleggera 1)
Click to expand...
Steve,

Seller can tell you anything. It is up to you to find the fact. If you don't mind hearing some info. Please read on.
.
.
.
.
The wheels you have is not the cheaper 1 peice Superleggera 1. It is more expensive $800 multi piece Sueprleggera III. They are indeed light for multi piece 18/19 wheels, but quite a bit heavier than oem and a lot (under my standard) heavier than the lightest 17/17 or 17/18 wheels you can buy. They weight about 23~26lbs each, don't quote me on this. They listed 18X8.5 for 350Z as 25lbs on tirerack, I don't know the size of your wheels, the rear could be as high as 27lbs. Weight them yourself you will see. Don't held me respondsiable for the exact#. They are heavier than oem by quite a bit for sure.

The added weight form those wheels and weight gain from larger tires are roughly 20~50+lbs rotating mass depending on how you compare. From lightest set up possible (17/17, 17/18).
 
NSXGMS said:
The SOS Stage 3 package w/ appropriate cams and a high-boost CTSC with an aggressively tuned AEM should easily be able to generate 425 whp and probably closer to 450 whp which is massive for a street driven NSX. There are very few cars on the road putting down more hp than that and certainly none that I can think of under $275,000.
Click to expand...

What would a modification of this kind cost to purchase and install ( I have no clue who in this area could do the work) and what would this do to reliability? I do not want my car to see a a 10% improvement in performance and suddenly lose the value of its reliability your thoughts here? I will look at SOS for the parts. Additonally, this would not adversely impact smog
certification - correct?

NSXGMS said:
The wheels you have is not the cheaper 1 peice Superleggera 1. It is more expensive $800 multi piece Sueprleggera III. They are indeed light for multi piece 18/19 wheels, but quite a bit heavier than oem and a lot (under my standard) heavier than the lightest 17/17 or 17/18 wheels you can buy.

The added weight form those wheels and weight gain from larger tires are roughly 20~50+lbs rotating mass depending on how you compare. From lightest set up possible (17/17, 17/18).
Click to expand...

I believe you are right on all issues regarding the wheels. I know that a weight reduction plan would improve performance and there is likely a 100 lbs
that I can easily target with a modest HP gain. Losing weight is in my sites
which as you aptly noted is part of the dual approach to performance and asthetics I have chartered with the Downforce NSX-R conversion package. I was hoping to obtain some suggestions on dealing with these wheels in another post, but you can see them in the link denoted below:

http://www.bavarianonline.com/NSX/pages/DSCN4581.htm

I appreciate all the thoughtful replies
 
The OZ Superleggera III wheels are fantastic 3-piece wheels. I'm thinking about running a set on my Supra. ITs definitely one of the lighter ones of the 3-piece wheel family. But its never going to be as light weight as those that are one piece forged. :wink:

-Andy
 
Steven Allen said:
What would a modification of this kind cost to purchase and install ( I have no clue who in this area could do the work) and what would this do to reliability? I do not want my car to see a a 10% improvement in performance and suddenly lose the value of its reliability your thoughts here? I will look at SOS for the parts. Additonally, this would not adversely impact smog
certification - correct?
Click to expand...

First of all your car will no longer pass emissions the second you change the ECU. Second, you lose your check engine light functionality which for me, is not acceptable. Third, you are running higher boost into an otherwise stock motor, and you can judge for yourself what that would do to reliability. Last, this upgrade is only for the older whipple CTSC, not the autorotor.

If you are going to swap the ECU, my recommendation would be the HKS VPro which will keep your CEL functionality. In any case its a big step, but it will get you another 40 HP. Did you even get the car yet?
 
TURBO2GO said:
First of all your car will no longer pass emissions the second you change the ECU. Second, you lose your check engine light functionality which for me, is not acceptable. Third, you are running higher boost into an otherwise stock motor, and you can judge for yourself what that would do to reliability. Last, this upgrade is only for the older whipple CTSC, not the autorotor.

If you are going to swap the ECU, my recommendation would be the HKS VPro which will keep your CEL functionality. In any case its a big step, but it will get you another 40 HP. Did you even get the car yet?
Click to expand...

I just took a quick look and it's a Whipple :smile:
 
Yes, I received the car a little over a week ago. As noted, I only want to make changes that will not effect reliability or passing CA smog.
 
Steven Allen said:
Yes, I received the car a little over a week ago. As noted, I only want to make changes that will not effect reliability or passing CA smog.
Click to expand...

Just keep your car living with some suspension mods and good tires.

If you are going to track it and are going to drive corners FAST PLEASE don't learn like a FEW of us on the board have about the Oil issues with bearing #4 :redface:

Read: http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86028
 
Steven Allen said:
I believe you are right on all issues regarding the wheels. I know that a weight reduction plan would improve performance and there is likely a 100 lbs
that I can easily target with a modest HP gain. Losing weight is in my sites
which as you aptly noted is part of the dual approach to performance and asthetics I have chartered with the Downforce NSX-R conversion package. I was hoping to obtain some suggestions on dealing with these wheels in another post, but you can see them in the link denoted below:

http://www.bavarianonline.com/NSX/pages/DSCN4581.htm

I appreciate all the thoughtful replies
Click to expand...

Originally Posted by NSXGMS

The wheels you have is not the cheaper 1 peice Superleggera 1. It is more expensive $800 multi piece Sueprleggera III. They are indeed light for multi piece 18/19 wheels, but quite a bit heavier than oem and a lot (under my standard) heavier than the lightest 17/17 or 17/18 wheels you can buy.

The added weight form those wheels and weight gain from larger tires are roughly 20~50+lbs rotating mass depending on how you compare. From lightest set up possible (17/17, 17/18).

I did not post this...
 
TURBO2GO said:
First of all your car will no longer pass emissions the second you change the ECU. Second, you lose your check engine light functionality which for me, is not acceptable. Third, you are running higher boost into an otherwise stock motor, and you can judge for yourself what that would do to reliability. Last, this upgrade is only for the older whipple CTSC, not the autorotor.

If you are going to swap the ECU, my recommendation would be the HKS VPro which will keep your CEL functionality. In any case its a big step, but it will get you another 40 HP. Did you even get the car yet?
Click to expand...

I am running the Dali Hot Chip + ECU mod and my car passed CA smog fine and the OBD I is not compomised at all. I was simply stating that CARB legality has nothing to do with emissions--it has to do with the manufacturer paying big bucks for testing and government fees for approval.

And yes, you are correct, more power (boost or stroker) = less reliability but the the CTSC is considered very safe to the point where Acura won't void the warranty and with an AEM, even running high-boost, I would say it's nothing to worry about short-term (40-70K miles). I personally would not track my FI/stroker NSX without an upgraded oil pump gear and an Accusump.

The bottom line of course is for the best reliability keep it stock.
 
If I never intend to track my NSX is there any value in an upgraded oil pump gear and an Accusump?
 
Steven Allen said:
If I never intend to track my NSX is there any value in an upgraded oil pump gear and an Accusump?
Click to expand...

Oil pump gear is behind the water pump and T-belt. I would do a Billet Oil pump gear at the T-belt replacement, water pump maintenance.

Never on the Track than most have no issues with oil starvation so most likely NO on an Accusump.

Just MY opinion :smile:
 
4:23 final drive...the 4:55 is too aggressive IMO..But I like my car on the highway alot..so If you don't do many long trips the 4:55 could be fun.


The accusump is a track mod in my opinion...if you drove your car on the street to the limits that the oiling mods would be necessary, you would be spending a lot of time in jail:biggrin:
 
NSXGMS said:
Not really opinion. It's hard to sustain the prolonged Gs needed to create starvation on the street. Virtually impossible.
Click to expand...

Sometimes when I'm bored I just dive the huge cover leaf on/off ramps for hours :biggrin: :rolleyes:
 
With all due respect, there is a difference between a diamond and a cubic zirconium, the real deal and a silicon implant and a NSX-R and a cartoon NSX. If you invested in all the NSX-R wanabee parts your resale value would no where be near a NSX-R. Again with all due respect, I am not cheap or jealous, I would rather invest in performance enhancements as opposed to cosmetic. Yes I do acknowledge that reducing weight via replacing aluminum with carbon fiber has merits. However, the main reason the NSX-R is a superior machine to the stock NSX are (in order IMO):

Suspension
Wheel weight (I think we both agree here - get light weight wheels tires)
Gear ratio
LSD
Weight (carbon fiber body parts)

One interesting side note (I’m sorry I don’t have the reference) is that Sport Compact Car magazine did a performance test between a stock car (again I do not remember the make) and the same car that had aero enhancements, side skirts, etc. - and the stock beat the car with all the do-dads. Bottom line IMHO Honda did a excellent job designing the stock NSX, the NSX-R is better, and I would be careful about adding un tested and un proven body parts, except if one is interested in cosmetics. JMO


nsxsupra said:
What does that have anything to do with this. Depending on how I interpret this. It can meant either one of this:

1-backed handed comment or display of jealousy, bitterness towards something you wish to have, but can't have or too cheap to spend money.

or

2- Meant no harm, just didn't think when posting.

NSX is a NSX, people put on body kits. NSX-R items are not just for show, it is acutally functional. Items that helps performance and drop weight at same time. For people who like the look, it is like hitting two birds with 1 stone.

http://world.honda.com/NSX/technology/t3.html
t3_03.gif


I can see it is fake if someone present it and try to fool someone as a genuine NSX-R and put on a bunch of NSX-R batch or emblems (R=stand for replica in this case), which it is not. Otherwise it is nothing more than NSX with aero and performance upgrades.


Steve,

Seller can tell you anything. It is up to you to find the fact. If you don't mind hearing some info. Please read on.
.
.
.
.
The wheels you have is not the cheaper 1 peice Superleggera 1. It is more expensive $800 multi piece Sueprleggera III. They are indeed light for multi piece 18/19 wheels, but quite a bit heavier than oem and a lot (under my standard) heavier than the lightest 17/17 or 17/18 wheels you can buy. They weight about 23~26lbs each, don't quote me on this. They listed 18X8.5 for 350Z as 25lbs on tirerack, I don't know the size of your wheels, the rear could be as high as 27lbs. Weight them yourself you will see. Don't held me respondsiable for the exact#. They are heavier than oem by quite a bit for sure.

The added weight form those wheels and weight gain from larger tires are roughly 20~50+lbs rotating mass depending on how you compare. From lightest set up possible (17/17, 17/18).
Click to expand...
 
What I enjoy most about the NSX and what brought me back to it 16 years later is the compromise between asthetics, performance and reliability. I realize that Honda did a magnificient job and that some mods have a dualistic impact on performance and asthetics. That dualism IMHO is consistent with the Honda philsosphy. There are plenty of owners who want nothing to do with any mod and POO-POO anyone who thinks otherwise. There are those who are at the other extreme who think nothing of making EVERY change possible to their cars. Really, who is to say what is right or wrong. I will just follow my course and that is the right one for me. I just want to make sure that the dualistic approach I choose is consistent with the compromise I noted and does not impact reliability.

Again, I really love this forum and appreciate the thoughtful and divergent opinions. I consider whatever anyone says, but ultimately do what I think is best.
 
Good luck with the CTSC. I installed one earlier this year (one of the last of the CTSC out there). It was a huge difference. I just wanted to be able to beat all the Corvettes out here (There are alot of them) and I am successful :)

I am assuming that you have headers and exhaust installed as well.

Your next step should be a Gallardo :)
 
No, I am not interested in Italian exotics that is why I own German and Japaneese cars.
 
I hear you on that....quality quality

But now Audi owns Lambo and the Gallardo was the first Audi/Lambo built. The interior, electrical, etc. are all Audi.

Good luck.
 

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