AEM F/IC guys wanna chime in?

T

tnguyen

Experienced Member
Joined
12 July 2008
Messages
259
Location
Texas
Hey guys I got the F/IC all wired up on a 2000 last night. The car was barely idling, and I started to make the base map (currently running 440's) and she wouldn't start after that.

I put the base map back on, and still nothing.

Anyone want to chime in?

If need be I can probably pull the tune off of the F/IC but it should be 0 on everything right now.
 
what brand injectors do you have?
did you test the unit before you swapped out the stock injectors?
Did you use the jump harness with the stock injectors?
Don't use the FIC auto map!!!

If they are RC injects you have to add a lot of fuel for start up. They work like sludge hammers. hard at first to get them going, but once moving less effort to push all the fuel. The ecu will correct the fuel for idle.
 
I wired it up myself, checked and double checked. I am using RC injectors, however they were on the car before, and she ran ok, just an issue with being too rich (duh), and stalling when coming to a stop, otherwise fine. I already updated the firmware, the z110 hex right? I got it off of AEM's forum.

Oh no, I didn't use a jump harness, again I wired it up myself.

Oh and Warren I shot you a reply
 
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ok, if you wired it up yourself and you doubled checked all the wiring, did you check in the FI/C software that you are actually getting correct readings for all the sensors? You may have a bad connections/solder joint.

Also, you didn't answer the question on whether or not you upgraded the firmware on the FI/C? On the NSX, you need to upgrade the firmware on the 1911 box (which you did get right? not the 1910?)

Firmware update instructions here:
http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php/topic,21283.0.html

With the FI/C and larger injectors, you shouldn't of had to touch a thing in the software other than update the firmware, and then change the injector multiplier. The car should run like stock.
 
tnguyen said:
I wired it up myself, checked and double checked. I am using RC injectors, however they were on the car before, and she ran ok, just an issue with being too rich (duh), and stalling when coming to a stop, otherwise fine. I already updated the firmware, the z110 hex right? I got it off of AEM's forum.

Oh no, I didn't use a jump harness, again I wired it up myself.

Oh and Warren I shot you a reply
Click to expand...

ahhhh. this brings back such sweet memories!! my old SS box had the same problem...

ran ultra rich... stinky stinky rich. and initially stalled at every red light if i took my foot off the gas. Basch tuned out the stall, and a lot of the richness, but my mileage was never better than 16.5 mpg..sometimes 18 if i drove like grandma.

Put in the FIC (or... rather i PAID someone to put it in)... BOOM! mileage up to over 20 mpg, stock like start in all weather.. no stalling issues..

Dude just pay someone $400 to dyno tune the FIC... might save you untold HOURS of irritation... and new motor at some point!

oh yeah.. the ssbox had big big issues with cold starts. a LOT of guys on prime were left stranded because of it.. I also had cold start issue even here in arizona in november-december. Turned out some genius found some $10 diode at radio shack fixed it by "eliminating" the ssbox for the first few seconds on startup so it was the OEM computer doing everything for ignition.


btw my car is a 2000 as well.
 
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yes my box is a 1911, and yes all the sensors are showing.

I've wired tons of stuff, included a 2jz in a RX7. I own a small shop in texas. I'll admit I cannot tune, however, I'm not afraid of wiring something.

Currently I have three NSX's at my shop; I know my way around them pretty well, but I've never messed with the F/IC before. The one that I'm having an issue with is the same one that I was asking about the TPS wiring (which I figured out btw).

I'm still trying to determine what's wrong with the car, it ran for a bit, and then it shut off. So I'm not quite sure what's going on with it, but I am schedule to get the car tuned in two weeks.

I know it sounds like I'm upset, I'm not. I just wanted to point it out, if anything I feel kind of upset because it feels like you are saying I don't know what I'm doing, but then again, I only have a few posts, and I don't have a introduction thread. I'm more of a lurker. I don't advertise my shop because I don't want to toot my own horn, I'm just waiting for my NA1 to be finished completely, then I'll make my intro thread and then I'll toot my horn then ;)

I guess it comes down to the fact I don't like people who talk and show no actions. I feel like it's pointless for me to say, "I can do great work on NSX's blah blah" but have nothing to show for it. Give me some time, and I'll show you what I'm about. Again please don't take this like I'm b--tching at anyone, I just wanted to clarify on it.

Thanks for the help guys. I really appreciate Warren for even giving me his number. I'm glad the NSX community has treated me (in my short stay) than the supra community. I love how you guys are close knit and sharing love and motivation; whereas the supra people are always competing (like a bunch of lil school girls) with one another.

Ahh I got way off track sorry guys! But yes I'm sure it's wired up right, I will check the connections again though, but the sensors are all showing, and I can't do the adjustment for RPM cause the car won't run (I did do the TPS though).

I checked in with Lovefab and they said the wiring is the same for the 2000. I used the wiring diagram on aem's forum that someone included in an excel spreadsheet.

I'll keep looking into it, hopefully I'll figure something out, please feel free to give me suggestions (two heads are better than one right?).

Again, thanks for the support guys!
 
Just in case.... you don't happen to have ANOTHER fuel management device hooked up do you? Like another piggy back unit such as from the CTSC kit, or AFC?

If you do, zero them out, or remove them completely as they are no longer needed.


Edit: Also, you mentioned that the FIC *IS* the 1911 unit, but you STILL have to update the firmware to work on the NSX. Did you do that? I posted a direct link to AEM's website on how to do it in my previous post.
 
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tnguyen said:
Hey C-Speed, yes I already did that, I haven't had a chance to troubleshoot today,but I will post back. But yes I did do the update, I read the aem forum before I even bought the unit to know what I was getting into.

96cxt, it will for obdI but it's NOT designed for OBDI
Click to expand...

I'm running 450cc injectors on mine. I've included my FIC map here. It should work as is on your setup, otherwise you do have something miswired.

I'm also using SW version 3.04.

FIC Base map for tnguyen w/ 450cc injectors:
http://www.c-speedracing.com/temp/tnguyen_nsx_base_map_450cc_11-17-2008.fi6

Let me know if that works.
 
C-speed said:
The 1911 unit works for the OBD1 NSX's. I'm running it on my 91 and several other prime members are as well.

It works perfectly :D
Click to expand...

Awesome. I'm not boosted but I would like to be able to adjust timing and fuel once i'm done with all the bolt ons and this would work better than a vtec controll and much cheaper than a EMS.

What did you do for the wiring? Do you have to make your own?
 
96cxt said:
Awesome. I'm not boosted but I would like to be able to adjust timing and fuel once i'm done with all the bolt ons and this would work better than a vtec controll and much cheaper than a EMS.

What did you do for the wiring? Do you have to make your own?
Click to expand...

Yes, I made my own adapter harness. Much cheaper than buying the Boomslang one. It actually just a regular OBD1 -> OBD1 harness. Nothing special, and IMO not worth $200 or whatever they charge.

Problem with the FIC is it can only retard timing. However, I have a solution for that for FIC users which I may release shortly.
 

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that bin might work, but i highly advise not to boost. Every car is different and so are the injectors. doesn't matter if they are both 440's. atmospheric pressure is different too. That's why you pay a little bit more with rc because they bench flow them and give you a read out.
 
warren1205 said:
that bin might work, but i highly advise not to boost. Every car is different and so are the injectors. doesn't matter if they are both 440's. atmospheric pressure is different too. That's why you pay a little bit more with rc because they bench flow them and give you a read out.
Click to expand...

True... but again, its a base map. Just want to make sure that his base map isn't fubar'd and is what's causing the runnability problems. That base map runs great on my car, so it should at the very least, start, run and idle pretty much like stock.
 
If you want to advance timing with the fic. what you do is drill out the ribbet that secures the cover for the timing adjuster in the control box. You then advance the timing in the car and then use the fic to retard it. So when theatrically in -10 for example you level the timing then when you go -9 you actually just advanced timing by 1 degrees. :tongue::tongue::tongue::biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:

i said it first! muaahahahahaah
 
warren1205 said:
If you want to advance timing with the fic. what you do is drill out the ribbet that secures the cover for the timing adjuster in the control box. You then advance the timing in the car and then use the fic to retard it. So when theatrically in -10 for example you level the timing then when you go -9 you actually just advanced timing by 1 degrees. :tongue::tongue::tongue::biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:

i said it first! muaahahahahaah
Click to expand...

lol.
That makes sense.
 
warren1205 said:
If you want to advance timing with the fic. what you do is drill out the ribbet that secures the cover for the timing adjuster in the control box. You then advance the timing in the car and then use the fic to retard it. So when theatrically in -10 for example you level the timing then when you go -9 you actually just advanced timing by 1 degrees. :tongue::tongue::tongue::biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:

i said it first! muaahahahahaah
Click to expand...

Sure, you *can* do it that way. I have a better way that is internal by modifying the original ROM.

:P
 
Yah, what I hear is you only get plus or minus 2 degrees on that screw, right?
I am very interested in this for obd 1.
Trev
 
update! I got the AEM box back (I sent it into AEM to be sure it was good), however I have a few issues on it. The wiring diagram that says that MAF in goes to harness and MAF out goes to ECU, I posted on AEM's forum to see if anyone could confirm it.

Also, when I display the gauges in the F/IC software, it pegs out the RPM gauge, it says 12,000 RPMS! I know I have it tapped in right, and I checked prior to posting.

Anyone has an idea?
 
tnguyen said:
I got it warren! I forgot that the F/IC needs to do the RPM calibration. For some reason AEM likes to reset the F/IC. I had to redo the flash and load up the base map again, but I got carried away when we got the box back. All is good now, thanks for the help!
Click to expand...

Didn't I tell you to do that in the very first post? :wink:
 
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