There appears to be leakage around the inspection window on the ac receiver/dryer on my '92. It is very accessible and looks to be a very straightforward job to replace it. However, sometimes looks can be deceiving with these vehicles! So, aside from having the ac system evacuated before loosening anything, is there anything else I should be aware of before tackling this job?
ac receiver/dryer
- Thread starter Doc308
- Start date
Just have whoever does the evac and recharge change it.
- Joined
- 22 September 2005
- Messages
- 77
I haven't done the NSX a/c system but I completely rebuilt the a/c system on my Chevy truck recently. The advice I'd give is as follows:
Make sure you recharge the system with the same type of Freon (R-134 or R-12). I don't know what type Acura used for your model year but there should be a label on the receiver/dryer stating how much is used and of what type.
Also don't let them try to convince you to swap over to R-134 if its an R-12 system. R-12 is still available and legal (even here in California), it just costs more per pound (between $60 and $70) and has to be installed by certified companies. It is more efficient than R-134 as your compressor will run cooler to achieve the same amount of air vent cooling when compared to R-134. My Chevy is now cranking out 43 degree air on full colling/fan setting.
Make sure you replace the seals on the connectors to the dryer. These are rubber o-rings and may differ in their material between R-12 and R-134. You should be able to get replacements from an auto parts store. My guess is that they may also be metric. You also need oil on the o-rings when you reassemble them. If the system uses R-12 then you'll need to use mineral oil (available from NAPA) and if its R-134 then you should use the synthetic PAG oil which most auto accessory stores stock on their shelves. The two oils are not compatible as I understand it. I actually went to the a/c place beforehand to discuss it with them and for them to evacuate the system and was able to pick up the seals for a nominal cost (free) before I did the job. They made the money back when they vacuumed and refilled the system at a cost of $260.
Finally, while you're getting the system evacuated and/or recharged, get the a/c shop to do a quick leak test to make sure all your connections are OK. I prefer the 'sniffer' probe as opposed to the dye test as it is far more effective. Most good a/c shops should have the probe tester.
The job is really quite simple as long as you get the specialists involved at the right time when you're evacuating the refrigerant and then when you're vacuuming it out and refilling it.
Make sure you recharge the system with the same type of Freon (R-134 or R-12). I don't know what type Acura used for your model year but there should be a label on the receiver/dryer stating how much is used and of what type.
Also don't let them try to convince you to swap over to R-134 if its an R-12 system. R-12 is still available and legal (even here in California), it just costs more per pound (between $60 and $70) and has to be installed by certified companies. It is more efficient than R-134 as your compressor will run cooler to achieve the same amount of air vent cooling when compared to R-134. My Chevy is now cranking out 43 degree air on full colling/fan setting.
Make sure you replace the seals on the connectors to the dryer. These are rubber o-rings and may differ in their material between R-12 and R-134. You should be able to get replacements from an auto parts store. My guess is that they may also be metric. You also need oil on the o-rings when you reassemble them. If the system uses R-12 then you'll need to use mineral oil (available from NAPA) and if its R-134 then you should use the synthetic PAG oil which most auto accessory stores stock on their shelves. The two oils are not compatible as I understand it. I actually went to the a/c place beforehand to discuss it with them and for them to evacuate the system and was able to pick up the seals for a nominal cost (free) before I did the job. They made the money back when they vacuumed and refilled the system at a cost of $260.
Finally, while you're getting the system evacuated and/or recharged, get the a/c shop to do a quick leak test to make sure all your connections are OK. I prefer the 'sniffer' probe as opposed to the dye test as it is far more effective. Most good a/c shops should have the probe tester.
The job is really quite simple as long as you get the specialists involved at the right time when you're evacuating the refrigerant and then when you're vacuuming it out and refilling it.
a/c vacume
Thanks for the detailed info, Chris.
Ron98--?
Ron98--?
LOL!
sorry i was going to do a search for a/c vacume..... but i put it in the posting thing instead! took me a minute before i realized that it was not searching
I'm working on the A/C right now. It is completely dry. Im putting a vaccum on it today and the bridging the condenser and putting in new stuff. I think there is a leak in mine so im doing the epoxi sealer and full recharge. I'll let you guys know how this goes and will be able to fully assist you more by the time the day is over.
sorry i was going to do a search for a/c vacume..... but i put it in the posting thing instead! took me a minute before i realized that it was not searching
I'm working on the A/C right now. It is completely dry. Im putting a vaccum on it today and the bridging the condenser and putting in new stuff. I think there is a leak in mine so im doing the epoxi sealer and full recharge. I'll let you guys know how this goes and will be able to fully assist you more by the time the day is over.
<s>vacume</s>
<s>vaccum</s>
vacuum <!--StartFragment -->
Might help your google search! <!--StartFragment -->
<s>vaccum</s>
vacuum <!--StartFragment -->
Might help your google search! <!--StartFragment -->
I know i didnt go to school.
Stop Kicking Me While Im Down!!!!!!
words are used to express a meaning, you got what i ment :tongue:
READ MY LIPS! V-A-C-U-M-E ... and just cause im an exciting guy, i'll switch it up some times with vaccum!
:biggrin:
v-a-c-u-u-m..... NA thats just wrong.
Stop Kicking Me While Im Down!!!!!!
words are used to express a meaning, you got what i ment :tongue:
READ MY LIPS! V-A-C-U-M-E ... and just cause im an exciting guy, i'll switch it up some times with vaccum!
:biggrin:
v-a-c-u-u-m..... NA thats just wrong.
Just finished up with my A/C... took about 1 hour from completely empty non operational A/C system with no freon and no compressor engagement to full blown arctic blizzard. :biggrin:
Full vacuum, 1 can of A/C seal for that leak im too lazy to track down and 2 cans of 12 oz R134. Blows ICE COLD! BUURRRRRRRR!!!
I got pictures and what not. I'll do a write up after im done with supper.
Suprisingly easy to do.
BTW
where do i post the pictures on NSXprime? i dont want to link it to my server so that the pictures are not avaliable when i take down the server.
Full vacuum, 1 can of A/C seal for that leak im too lazy to track down and 2 cans of 12 oz R134. Blows ICE COLD! BUURRRRRRRR!!!
I got pictures and what not. I'll do a write up after im done with supper.
Suprisingly easy to do.
BTW
where do i post the pictures on NSXprime? i dont want to link it to my server so that the pictures are not avaliable when i take down the server.
Last edited:
If you want a used free drier,Pm me.
Thanks, Zennsx, but I think tht this is a elativelt cheap part so I'll likely put in a new one. In case I'm mistaken about the cost though, I'll keep your offer on hand.
A used Receiver/Dryer should be discarded. It is of no use and can only screw up a system about to be repaired. Also you will notice the new one has caps on the in/out. Do not remove then until just before you install it, then evac and charge it.
My$.02
LarryB
My$.02
LarryB
Thanks, Larry.
If you think a used rec / drier can screw up am a/c system, you should see what a/c stop leak does to one. A very bad idea and specifically referred to in more than one Honda service advisory as an absolute no-no.
Mark
Mark
NSXTech said:
My thoughts exactly.
lol Mark, your right. 
Thats if you dont use it right.... I know it can epoxi up everything if you have a major leak.... thats if its like a open tare and too much moisture comes into the system.
Remember to put the system under vaccuum first to remove the moisture which is the epoxi activator in stop seals.
Once that is done, you should have no problems. What do you guys think the A/C shop uses to fix your leaks?
If you got your A/C system sealed and didnt pay MAJOR bucks for at least the labor to find the leaks, you got the can of A/C Seal!
Btw i'll keep you guys posted. If the A/C compressor seizes up or the system goes something really silly i'll let you guys know.
In the mean time i got myself a new A/C compressor so have back up just in case.... $500 tho, thats pretty steep.
If everything goes well, i'll put it up for sale for you guys that need a new compressor to get that A/C back. :smile:
Thats if you dont use it right.... I know it can epoxi up everything if you have a major leak.... thats if its like a open tare and too much moisture comes into the system.
Remember to put the system under vaccuum first to remove the moisture which is the epoxi activator in stop seals.
Once that is done, you should have no problems. What do you guys think the A/C shop uses to fix your leaks?
If you got your A/C system sealed and didnt pay MAJOR bucks for at least the labor to find the leaks, you got the can of A/C Seal!
Btw i'll keep you guys posted. If the A/C compressor seizes up or the system goes something really silly i'll let you guys know.
In the mean time i got myself a new A/C compressor so have back up just in case.... $500 tho, thats pretty steep.
If everything goes well, i'll put it up for sale for you guys that need a new compressor to get that A/C back. :smile:
