Compressor seized today. Mechanic says I will also need an evap. Big labor $$$$$. Can the current evap be salvaged? It is not leaking . Mech just says it can't be cleaned out good enough . Seams like there should be some way to flush it etc .
a/c help
- Thread starter johnboy
- Start date
The freon from from the compressor goes through the receiver dryer, then the condensors before it goes through the expansion valve and then the evaporator so worst case the expansion valve may need to be changed.
Several people have had seizied compresors including my self and an evaporator replacment is not part of the repair. That being said a leaking evaporator on a system that keeps getting refilled with freon will take the oil out of the system and cause the compressor to fail. So have you been refilling the system?
Several people have had seizied compresors including my self and an evaporator replacment is not part of the repair. That being said a leaking evaporator on a system that keeps getting refilled with freon will take the oil out of the system and cause the compressor to fail. So have you been refilling the system?
I've not owned the car but for three months. The records show the evap was replaced in 03' it is prob ok in reguards to leaks. I think it was the compressor leaking . You could see where there was dye marks on it. I'm just concerned if I don't replace the evap. it may contaminate the new stuff or the system won't work right. Is the evap ever replaced because of a burnd up or seized comp ? The mech. told me the evap would be full of crap that they couldn't get out. Does he just want a new boat or what?
Personally I wouldn't chance it. When a compressor seizes it's contaminates the feon with all sorts of junk that will be toxic to the new compressor. The previous owner replaced the compressor 2 times and still had problems. It wasn't until I replaced the entire system that the issues went away.
The receiver/drier has a filter for debris, though I'm not sure how fine it is. But any metal particles should settle at the bottom. At the very least you would have to replace the drier and I would also have the condenser flushed, since it's before the drier. I'm OCD so I would have the incoming lines to the compressor flushed too, in case there was any upstream contamination. I wouldn't replace the evap or expansion valve though.
My when my compressor went there was no mention of needing more then a new receiver/driver along with a replacment compressor. Open up one of the lines to the evaporator and swab it with a q-tip and see what kind of gunk you can find. Metal or black gunk is bad and clean oil is good. You may want to get a second opinon from a different shop. What are you being quoted to do the repair?
I was quoted $3,200.00 for all new system oem. Comp, evap. condensers,dryer,exp valve,and labor. Thats alot of mony but also alot of parts and time.I'm thinking about trying to flush system and only do comp,dryer,exp valve.
thats quite a bit. depending on if its oem honda parts or not.
warmest regards
Rob:smile:
warmest regards
Rob:smile:
When I bought my old '98 it had the compressor completely seized and the ac clutch burnt.
I went to a AC specialist who had worked on NSX sytems before and he just advised a new receiver/drier and a refurbished compressor/clutch assembly.
Even though parts are a lot more expensive here than in the US, it cost me only about 600 Euros in parts, did the work myself.
After refilling, the system worked flawless.
I went to a AC specialist who had worked on NSX sytems before and he just advised a new receiver/drier and a refurbished compressor/clutch assembly.
Even though parts are a lot more expensive here than in the US, it cost me only about 600 Euros in parts, did the work myself.
After refilling, the system worked flawless.
Last edited:
- Joined
- 15 May 2004
- Messages
- 6,898
If the compressor fails:
if it seizes -> new receiver/drier and a BIG flush
if it fails due to clutch/switch -> you can get away with replacing the bad part only as long as there are no metal particles in the system.
BUT a lot of shops don't analyse the problem properly enough and point on the compressor, the most expensive part.
if it seizes -> new receiver/drier and a BIG flush
if it fails due to clutch/switch -> you can get away with replacing the bad part only as long as there are no metal particles in the system.
BUT a lot of shops don't analyse the problem properly enough and point on the compressor, the most expensive part.
If you are going to replace the a/c system, you might consider using 93 spec. parts, it is R134 and don't forget to replace the a/c discharge/suction lines. You might as well do it right the first time.
- Joined
- 15 May 2004
- Messages
- 6,898
I've called Denso about R12/R134 and all their compressors can go with either of them. It's only the attachment which are different. If you get a R134 compressor for a 91 you have to get the hoses too as the plugs are different. If you replace the hole A/C that doesn't matter. :wink:
DONT, do that! determination and a service manual beat the Dealer everytime . bet you have better things to spend that money on.
try to fix it yourself first with what they say it will cost what do you have to lose but a giant bill
best regards david
ps buy all the service mans even if you can DL one its nice to carry with you.hope it works out for you John.
