91 nsx Battery died in the cold, now SRS light is on. Battery died due to the cold. Battery is 1 year old. Last driven a week ago. I jump started it up and srs light is now on. Did I blow a fuse? Is this a low voltage signal to the SRS unit that will go away with driving? (It's bad weather in ny so the car has not moved, just idled). I know there is no manual/physical reset for the SRS unit like in other Honda models. Any advice to troubleshoot? All help is appreciated. Thank you.
91 nsx Battery died in the cold, now SRS light is on.
- Thread starter Kidblast
- Start date
Have you disconnected the battery since jump starting? You could try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes or so and hook back up. I would also reset the clock fuse but that may not effect srs. You can check the fuses in the dash fuse box, not sure but may be like fuse 1 and 2 for SRS
Mike
Mike
Could coincidental timing with your SRS control module board going bad. Just like the Climate Control boards and the Speaker amps. I had to replace mine recently. NSXe-repair supplied mine. Check you fuses first though.
First thing to check is the SRS fuse. It's in the fuse box on the left side of the driver footwell. PITA to access and I don't recall off hand which one it is. If you change it and it blows again .. then you'll need to follow a multi-page diagnosis in the shop manual to figure out what the problem is. Hope it was caused by the boost procedure and that it didn't damage the SRS module. They are starting to fail with same symptoms as amps, head unit, climate control, TCS, etc. The good news is that Brian (who does the amp repair) won't charge you much to fix it. The bad news is that you'll have to get it out first and it's a bitch. It's approx directly under the shifter area in the center console but it's held in by strange torx bolts that have thread-locker on them .. easy to strip. Even releasing the cables is a challenge. Don't forget to disarm the system first (plug is inside steering column) so the airbag doesn't accidently go off while you're working on it. Good luck.
Thank you Ian. I started to trouble shoot and unfortunately the fuse was blown and keeps blowing every new fuse. Based on your information and what I'm reading elsewhere it's likely the SRS module I'm going to replace that. It's seems to be the cause for everyone else having similar issues. Hopefully I'm no different.
I'm pretty sure there's nothing in the Wiki to help you with removal .. so, here's my recollection. First, remove the two screws for the access cover on the underside of the steering column; remove the shorting plug and connect it to the SRS harness. Then work on getting the SRS module out from underneath the console. I'm pretty sure you can get at it by pulling down on the carpets where they slide up under the center console. On both sides, there are connections to footwell vents that you'll have to fight with a bit. The carpet doesn't need to be removed, just pulled down enough so you can get at the SRS unit from both sides. There are two torx screws on either side. But first you need to unclip the electrical connectors. I think there are two .. one on the passenger side and one on the end closest to the rear .. this is a bitch because there's very little room to press on the tab that will release it. Then work on getting the torx screws out. I don't remember which torx number it is so best to get one of those multi-driver kits with a good selection of them. If you're lucky, maybe the car has been serviced before and someone else had to be the first to remove them. They put threadlocker on them at the factory and someone suggested that it's the heat kind so it you have a soldering iron, you might try heating them with the tip first just before you try to remove them. Something I didn't try was using an impact driver while pressing on the screw to try to break them loose. Other than that, you're on your own. Once they're out, you have to free it from the brackets and rotate it a bit to get it out. I'm pretty sure mine came out the passenger side.
Good luck.
Did I misread or are you saying that you can get at the module without removing the center console?
The best info I found is this. It's a pretty good guide but if you're saying there is another way to bypass removing the console I'm very interested.
http://sarasotadetail.com/gallery2/...2_GALLERYSID=590746a22350af5471dfc04bc0e9aab2
The best info I found is this. It's a pretty good guide but if you're saying there is another way to bypass removing the console I'm very interested.
http://sarasotadetail.com/gallery2/...2_GALLERYSID=590746a22350af5471dfc04bc0e9aab2
No, you didn't misread. I never touched any of the center console components for the removal.
That is an excellent writeup and it should be part of the Wiki but that's not possible since the Wiki is locked down at the moment. I didn't know about first making sure the vent system was set correctly .. maybe I was lucky. I did say that you have to fight with them a bit to get them to reconnect. In his write-up, he eventually get the module out through the passenger side as I was suggesting. The only benefit I see from taking the whole center console apart is to have easier access to release the tab on the larger electrical connector. I was able to access it from the passenger side footwell so I'd try that first and if you still can't do it, then his way is plan B. I don't recall having as much of a problem pulling the driver side carpet back as he did but I think I pulled out the carpet further to the rear so maybe that was why. It's a bit of a PITA to work there because you have to fold the partially removed carpet over and it's always in the way .. but better than removing the entire carpet. Nice that he listed the torx socket size. If your passenger carpet isn't wet, don't worry about water running out while you're doing this. That's one of the possible reasons for the SRS system going bad but from what you've said, I don't think it applies in your case. My comment about using the SRS plug to disable the circuit is from the shop manual procedure .. and it's probably quicker and safer than disconnecting the battery. You sure don't want the airbag going off due to static electricity or something. Getting those screws out is going to be the biggest pain .. but it's all do-able.
Thanks again Ian. Between the write up and the additional info I should have no problem here. The hard part is that the SRS module is a discontinued part. I was lucky to find a used one at a junkyard. I will have an update in a month once I find the time to work on this.
In case you didn't know, BrianK on Prime is able to fix SRS modules now. He has built some specialized test equipment to test them to ensure his fixes really do fix the problem. So, if you haven't already bought the junkyard part, I'd reconsider .. and use Brian to refresh yours instead. There's nothing to say the junkyard one works .. or won't fail the same way yours did. If you have bought it, you might want to send it to Brian anyway for analysis and if it's ok, maybe he'll just charge a test fee.
That is a concern of mine.... I did buy it and it's arriving today. I was going to have a dealership test it before I install it.
I don't need a functional airbag... I just need this SRS light to go away. I'm not too familiar with the SRS system. Is there a way to disconnect the entire system so the SRS light disappears?
I don't need a functional airbag... I just need this SRS light to go away. I'm not too familiar with the SRS system. Is there a way to disconnect the entire system so the SRS light disappears?
I don't believe that anyone has discovered a way .. short of removing the gauge cluster and removing the bulb .. of maybe just putting tape over the cluster window. I suspect Honda doesn't want the liability of allowing you to do it. I drove mine for several years with it on, hoping that the bulb would burn out. That was before Brian started doing his repair service. I had re-done the diagnostic routine and it pointed to a short in the harness so I even bought a used harness and swapped them (way more difficult than just removing the module) .. but the problem didn't go away. The lesson there was that when the module fails, it can throw bad diagnostic codes and having you chase phantom problems.
I doubt that the dealership has any way of testing them. They were nice enough to loan me their testing harness but it just externalizes the pins to make it easier to check voltages and follow their troubleshooting charts in the shop manual. And, as I just pointed out, a failed unit can generate misleading conditions. The only way I know of to have them functionally tested is to send it to Brian.
Thanks to all who too the time to put in their advice and guidance on the thread. I acquired a used SRS module from a junkyard and installed it yesterday. It was a bitch of a job... as all have said before the loctite screws are a killer. But I got through it, put everything back together and the moment of truth came when I started her up. The SRS light was still on my heart sunk and then it went off
We are all good in this guy's garage. I now have a spare that can be sent to Brian if anyone ever needs a SRS module core for refurbishing.
We are all good in this guy's garage. I now have a spare that can be sent to Brian if anyone ever needs a SRS module core for refurbishing.Similar threads
