#1 . At Idle...I'm usually around 800.
#2 . I would put your battery on a battery charger overnight and then fire it up the next morning and see how that goes? Or, take your battery to AutoZone, O'Reilly's and have them do a battery check (to rule out the battery).
I spent $2600 for everything you just stated plus I had to get a stud replace off the hub because it had sawed in half (which by itself is an hour worth of work when you use a press to press out the stud). So...all in, $2600. But...I didn't go to the dealer; Shad is our local NSX guru, so he...
This was along the lines of what I was thinking because if you have the money to do KW3s (which as I've been told that it's a bit overkill for just a "street car" setup) and NOT track you car; then...just get the iLift.:tongue: I went OEM because I didn't know that iLift was an option. :frown:
I just recently had Shad at Driving Ambition install KWs with new OEM top mounts, bushings, collars and washers. No noise/squeaking anywhere after install. Just an FYI...If you plan on DIYing, Shad did state it was a PITA to get the newer bushings on.
I haven't had a chance to test fit mine as I wanted to get the 2002+ rear valance on before installation. I will try and do a test fit this Sunday and reply to this post. :smile:
The TB service was bundled with a BUNCH of other items...so it's difficult to give you an exact. Give him a call and he can tell you how long it'll take for the service and what the cost is per hour. The parts, TB and WP, was 321 and 186 respectively. I had the valve adj done as well, but...
I just had coilovers installed and master clutch cylinder replaced at Shad @Driving Ambition last week. He also did my timing belt, hoses, etc... 2 years ago. He's the best when it comes to our cars (and S2000s).
Hi,
I recently upgraded to KWs (installation by Shad @Driving Ambitions in Sacramento) with completely new OEM top mounts. Thus, the OEM shocks and struts for sale will have their respective OEM top mounts. Would prefer local pickup.
PM for pictures.
Price: $200
Thanks for looking.
Update...after changing coil pack #1 , all is good! No misfire going into second. The lesson learnt...even though checking the coil pack to see if idle changes does not necessarily means it's "good." From reading a post by Larry B, also check for looseness/tightness. Thanks all!
Thanks quasi! I did notice that the #1 coil is very loose (it was easier to remove than #2 ). I was reading a thread where Larry B stated that the coil should NOT be easy to be removed. So...I will replace the #1 coil and if that doesn't work, then I'll look at the plugs.
So...my CEL and TCS went on as well this weekend. The code pulled was 1201 (cylinder 1). I had the code cleared and upon driving, going from first to second and giving it "some" throttle, I heard a pop from the exhaust. Not loud, but noticeable. I checked the coil packs, specifically 1 and 2...
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